Re: Choosing The Right Mechanic
First: Mechanic told us that a petcock had broken, but didn't want to replace it due to the rust/corrosion around the petcock area.....he said he felt with his finger. In taking out the broken petcock, there would be a good chance that the hole would get bigger and a new block would have to be put in. His estimate to buy a long block and install was higher than we thought we could afford.
Second: Took the boat to another mechanic (small business/non-dealership) that was recommended to us by an outboard dealership. The I/O mechanic's shop was right behind the outboard "only" shop. Went over and talked to him and he told me that we may not need a new block that he could simply replace both petcocks and water-test for leaks. So, we took the boat to him. He replaced the petcocks and water-tested.....no leaks. He then told us that he'd waiver the petcock job if we'd let him remove the engine, primer/paint/seal it and replace the tin. He said we were leaking some oil around the edge of oil pan and valve covers. We ok'd what he told us he could do. After the engine was out is when he told us about the belts, engine mounts, oil pump (said we'd get much better oil pressure with a new one), etc. AND ask us for upfront cash for parts. We didn't know how much he'd take apart our engine in order to primer/paint/seal it, BUT he took it down to where the rod arm could be seen and that is when we were told about the slightly bent rod. He did show it to me. Hence, new block came into scene and more upfront cash!
In following this and trying to be objective, I see that:
1-the guy you are now with fixed the original petcock problem the first mechanic did not even want to touch? You're 100% happy?
2-the guy got your approval to do some new work and agreed to waive the cost of the original work as he saw some oil leakage and you agreed to that arrangement?
3-then in performing the work on your new agreement which is with the engine out, he did some diagnosis on the oil leak which included the oil pan along with other parts which in taking the oil pan off, the rods/crank became visible and he found the bent rod. He showed you the bent rod and you have a picture so he's not making it up?
4-he's asking for upfront cash for the "parts" only, not labor?
Seems to me that so far, he's doing things right including getting your approvals and trying to fix all your problems at once instead of just part way now that will end up costing to even more in the future and what you really don't like is his shop organizational methods and the fact he wants you to pay for parts up front.
Which if I go to my local Merc dealer and wanted to order these exact same parts or block for my own mechanic to install them, I would need to pay for those parts now, not after my mechanic had them installed.
Seems like you want him to absorb ALL the costs now, get it all done then hope you pay for not only the parts, but also his labor costs.
Ever hired a contractor to remodel a room?
Usually pay 1/3 up front, 1/3 in the middle, 1/3 at the end.
The 1/3 up front is for parts/permist, the 1/3 in the middle is for labor and more parts, the 1/3 at the end for the rest of the labor and profit.
Mark
