Cracking around prop

[jay_merrill]

Re: Cracking around prop

IN looking at the last photo (the one of the midsection), it looks like the data plate is still on the transom bracket. Contact the seller and see if he can give you the model number. From that, we can tell you what year the motor is, which gives us some chance to try to figure out the compatibility issue.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Stourm,
Hey the guy on Ebay sounds like he is giving you a great deal there. $150.00 for a great lower leg unit is AWESOME price especially if it is in great shape and does fit your current motor. Yes, please take Jay Merrils advice and get that model# off the mid section that is for sale on Ebay. That model# will tell you everything you need to know about that motor and what it is compatible with. I wish I could help you out and help you work on it but I think I am too far away once you get these items to you. Ask these guys on here if the mid section is hard to change out becuase I have never removed/replaced one before. So far the only thing I have removed/replaced on the outboard is the lower unit to replace the water pump and impeller on a 88 SPL Evinrude outboard. Let us know how it goes and I am sure you'll have that thing in tip top shape so when it does get hot and nice outside you can take your family out to the lake for the day or go camping boating for the weekend. Take care, Bob

 

[splitshot]

Re: Cracking around prop

thats is a good deal if it will fit, also his electronics look clean if they were all working good you might want to make him an offer on them as well (if they will fit) it is always nice having an extra set around for diagnosing...that way you dont have to buy them new...just a thought

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

I called the guy and asked him to read me the model number off of the transom bracket. Here is what he gave me. Model number: e140pricih and the Serial number: J0001118. I had a little trouble understanding him and I read it back the way I thought he told it to me and he said it was right so I hope that is a correct model number. I hope you guys can make sense of it but if not I may just take a chance on it. By the way, is there anything I should do to check it to make sure that its in good condition? Are there any things I should make sure to look at or turn to see if it turns easy? Thanks.

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

Guys, I have been looking high and hard to see if that number that he gave me is a valid Model number and I just can't find it anywhere. Either he read me the wrong number or I misunderstood what he read. I can't find anything on it and I hope you guys have better luck. I may just have to take a chance on it, and if it doesn't fit for whatever reason just try and turn around and resell the lower unit. I hate to do it because its a 4 hour drive, but it looks like the best deal and if its from a 125 hp motor then has a good chance of working right?

 

[TN-25]

Re: Cracking around prop

Regarding the midsection & lower unit corrosion:

...Seeing as how its aluminum I can't see that it would unless it had some stray current running around the outside of it?

If that boat sat in the water surrounded by other boats that had battery powered anode / cathode protection, your motor might have unwittingly become the sacrificial anode in the chain. In other words, your lower unit may have given itself to save the lower units of all surrounding boats.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Cracking around prop

If parts of the model number "e140pricih" were correct, the motor would be a 140HP Evinrude from 1980 which would work for your motor if the driveshaft and shift rod are the correct length.

The 125 from the late 80's and 90's was a looper. The ignition parts in your photo are from a crossflow of the very late 70's or early 1980's vintage.

Except for the gearcase, the other parts look like crossflow parts and are probably not from any 125HP motor.

There is no way to tell about the gearcase from the photo except that it is newer than yours.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Cracking around prop

After a day out in my boat today, I have a bit of info that will probably clear up the issue of why your corrosion line is so high, even though I don't think it makes much difference in terms of the issues that you are facing.

As is true of pretty much all of us, I have never paid that much attention to how deeply my motor sits in the water when the boat is at rest. Today I did, just because this thread was on my mind. As it turns out, the water level on mine in about an inch or so lower than yours. I have two large marine batteries under the splashwell, but no fuel tanks - mine are saddle tanks that are mounted further forward.

My motor is a 1972 Johnson 65hp (3 cylinder) but the midsection and gearcase are pretty much the same as yours. With that in mind, the comparison is close enough to be "apples to apples." Given that my motor is probably about 60 pounds lighter than yours, and you have three batteries in the stern, the lower position of your motor makes sense. Natural bouyancy of one boat v. the other could come into play too.

My point is that there may not be anything out of the ordinary about the height to which your motor was damaged. I don't know that I have ever seen one corroded that far up the leg, but I am now thinking we were all wrong about the motor beong on another boat. At this point, it just looks to me like the previous owner took lousy care of his motor.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Cracking around prop

I just got done reading through these three pages here and looking at the pics of that motor, if it were mine, I'd probably be looking for a motor that hasn't been exposed to so much neglect, one without all that corrosion.
While you could, with some effort no doubt, swap out the lower unit, and maybe even the mid section, but what condition is the rest of the motor in? If the lower unit has that much corrosion, what does the inside of the power head and water passages look like?
You might be better off cutting your losses and finding a motor in better overall condition. One without so much corrosion. I live where nearly every motor I see has some degree of salt damage, but yours is even in rough shape for a saltwater motor.

I just got done working on a pair of motors for a buddy that were not nearly as corroded as yours and I spent days fighting with broken and seized bolts, only to put on one used lower and two water pump kits. They looked good compared to that 140 there.

I would look for a motor either way newer, or even one of the same family so you could use that one for spare parts.
I'd hate to go through all the trouble of finding a new lower and mid section only to find out the power head was just as corroded.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Cracking around prop

That lowerunit is useless, you MUST buy a new or used one, the anodes??? obviously gone. Dont go out to the water, bcareful.

 

[theviolentvicar]

Re: Cracking around prop

Looks like that thing's been sitting in the chuck for ages without zincs.

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

Thanks to everyone that has responded on this topic. I appreciate all of the help and am definitely more knowledgeable now than I was before I posted here. I wanted to show appreciation to everyone who has posted, but especially to jay_merril, big bubba, splitshot, ezeke, and cribber who have responded the most and stuck with me from the beginning. Big bubba, I am sorry to hear that you are being deployed away from your family and wish you the best. Be safe out there man.

I think it's time for this thread to go by the wayside so here is what I am going to do. I am probably going to go ahead and buy that lower unit for $150 if it appears to be in good shape, and I figure if it doesn't fit then I can just sell it and try to find another one. From the picture it looks pretty much exactly like mine so I suppose if the shaft length is right the it's my best shot. I have heard the engine run, and it appears to run just fine, but just to be sure I will put oil back in my lower and run it at least once just to see how it does. Since the gearcase appears to be fine because the oil had no water in it, I don't think it will hurt to go out at least once and see what else it will do. I will probably do that first before buying that lower and I may see about that midsection as well.

I will definitely post here again with a new topic on what happens with all of this, or with questions if I run into problems. If anyone has any last bit of advice please go ahead and add it and I will check this thread a couple of more days but this will be my last post on it. Thanks again to everyone.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Cracking around prop

When you run the motor, go easy on the throttle - don't advance to high power quickly. I think the prop is going to cavitate from exhaust gases running around it, so you don't wan't the motor to run away from you and end up blowing it up.

Good luck with it!