The only problem is "Properly done". If you're not a professional, the chances of getting it "Properly done" is greatly reduced. Then again, from the tone of the crimp and shrinktube seal posts, your not interested in taking the time to do the repair properly, with appropriate preparation, just the easiest way.<br />If you're gonna ignore expert, professional (from more people than just me) advice and listen only to like minded posts, why ask the question to begin with? <br />A mechanic friend of mine concurred with me that the BEST way to peform this battery cable repair is to solder the lug on. As the crimp corrodes, as will happen, the chances of arcing increase. I can't remember the exact term, but the major automobile manufacturers are recognizing that their connectors, even with weather-pack seals, develop nearly invisible corrosion and therefore can develop excess resistance.<br />But those of you who want to believe your point of view, and ignore anything else can go ahead and cut corners by crimping only. You won't remove condensation, humidity and any other moisture present in the crimp. The heatshrink tubing will seal the moisture in, and the heat required to shrink the tubing is insufficient to boil off any moisure before it is sealed in. It WILL corrode, and there will be problems. The Coastie's testament to crimping only doesn't mention the maintenance that is performed on those batteries. No emergency responder organization will allow neglect of a critical component like the boat's bank of batteries. He may never have seen the maintenance, but it happens.<br />You all go ahead and take the short cuts, I will stick to the recognized professional repair method and protect my reputation for doing the right job, the RIGHT way, the first time. If you can't do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it the second time? Sunday afternoon, miles from the launch?
We can play outside when it near a 100. Now I can tell A proper crimp I give a pull on the wire and if it moves I redo it. <br /><br />I hope the wire does corrode twenty miles from the launch. That means the water in the lake is finally up ! And don't think I will not have the tools and equipment to repair it. I will worry more about the old force motor than the crimped battery wire! Don't Dis my FORCE it runs and is paid for. And now Maintained.That's the difference between a professional and an I-know-enough-to-be-dangerous. The former knows how to do what they are doing, and will listen to other professionals. The later thinks they know what they are doing and won't listen to the professionals, because they might have to face the truth.<br /><br />I don't know why I waste my 1's and 0's on you guys. Nothing will change your minds and cause you to consider and opposing point of view, regardless of how learned.Originally posted by Realgun:<br /> Where I live cars don't die from rust they die from old age and neglect! What moisture? The air here is usually 20% or less moisture. True we have little water in which to boat but I would rather not sweat myself to death at 80 degrees.
Man that is professional.
It doesn't take much to explaint why. To solder the connection would take additional material (extra $$) additional manufacturing procedures (extra $$) and additional time (extra $$). It is not hard to see with all the extra effort and expense the profit margin woul ddiminish or the cost would rise. Neither one is acceptable to the manufacturer. The engineers' directive - Faster, lighter and CHEAPER!
