Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Doug Redinger

Seaman
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
73
I recently purchased an old 1969 Fiberform v-hull sport runabout that was in terrible condition. After fixing a host of mechanical problems with the motor I decided to work on the totally trashed interior. After tossing the seats, sideboards and carpet I noticed a few cracks in the fiberglass layed down over the plywood floor. After removing some of the pieces of fiberglass that were broken up I noticed that the plywood underneath was totally saturated with water. After removing more broken pieces of fiberglass I noticed about 8 or 10 one inch holes in the plywood floor. After digging out the plugs put in these holes I noticed the foam underneath was saturated with water. The plywood appears to be in ok condition all things considered. I wanted to deal with the problem of saturated foam but did not want to have to remove the plywood floor and dig out all the foam and all the work that that would mean. I decided after reading many posts on this site about this topic that I would try to dry out the foam. I inserted a small piece of stiff wire into the foaming plug holes to determine the depth of the foam underneath each area of the boat. Luckily my boat is quite small and the foam at the deepest is about 6" deep with most of it in the 2"-4" range. I used a houseplant moisture meter to determine just how saturated the foam was at each hole in the plywood. The range on the moisture meter was 0-4 with 4 being the wettest. Most of my readings were in the 3.5 to 4 range so I knew the foam was totally wet. I used a large shop vac (6.5 h.p.) and used a 1 1/4"
reducer fitting and hose which just fit into the foaming holes in the plywood floor and turned on the vacuum. The vacuum sucks out the humid air from the hull and draws dry air in through all the other open holes in the floor. My boat had small spaces between the bottom of the plywood floor and the top of the saturated foam. Foaming the hull is not a perfect science and there are irregularities and voids in places between the foam and the plywood. I parked the boat outside in bright sunshine and let the vacuum run for days. The dry warm air being drawn down into the hull eventually totally dried out the foam and plywood as verified by the moisture meter which now registers readings of 0-0.5 on the meter. I made sure to cover the boat so as not to get any more rain or snow in the boat. I think it had been stored outside for years without a cover and with the drain plug in and the bow down. I figure a few more days with the vacuum and all my readings will be 0. This method worked great for me. If the foam was alot deeper it would take much longer if at all to fully dry the foam out. And our climate here is very sunny hot and dry. Really humid climates would probably not work nearly as well.


Good Luck
Doug
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,713
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Interesting. I would not have guessed the foam would dry out that well. Are you testing the surface of the foam, or the center of the filled cavity?
 

Doug Roy

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Messages
45
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Doug - Very creative method of drying her out! I just took out almost all the foam on the starboard side of my boat over the Winter and replaced the starboard stringer and the sole, which was quiet rotten in the middle where the water was "pooling". Even with everything open, Dry-Eze in containers everywhere, and working in a warm heated space, as I pulled out the last of the old foam 2 months into the project I was still finding water trapped between the foam and the hull. Due to the adhesive nature of the foam you can't get to the underside or the points where it lays up against your boats stringers. I seriously doubt the she is all dried out. Water in there will quickly penetrate the fiberglass around your wood stringers, saturating them just like your deck and starting the decay process. If you can get at a stringer and drill small holes thru the fiberglass to check their condition with your meter I'd do that before buttoning her all up and calling it good. It's easy to patch the holes with a little fiberglass peanut butter. Chances are the stringers are wet if not somewhat rotten. They'll rot from the bottom up. If she seems structurally solid you might be able to safely get your money's worth of use out of her before her structural integrity starts to go. Who knows. Look for gel coat cracks in the hull too, which could indicate the fiberglass is under undue stress due to structural failures. Good luck!
 

Doug Redinger

Seaman
Joined
May 22, 2005
Messages
73
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

I am still in the process of drying it out but I can see light at the end of the tunnel. The weather here has been cool and damp this week so the drying process has really slowed down. When the weather warms up and dries out I will continue. This process really works well because the vacuum is drawing warm dry air down into the hull where the air absorbs some of the moisture and then exhausts the humid air out the vacuum. If I drilled a few more holes through the plywood floor it would speed things up too. The moisture meter I am using has a 6" probe about 1/8" thick that I stick down into the foam. All my readings are with the probe stuck down into the foam. You can feel the air being drawn down into the open holes.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,082
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Ayuh,.... So what's yer plan after ya dry it out,..??

The foam is compromised, 'n will attract water again...
It'll be right back where it was, in No time....
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

I suggest when you think you have it all dried out and turn the vac off wait for a week and come back with your moisture meter and check again, I don't think it's going to be as dry as you would like.
 

SigSaurP229

Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

I suggest when you think you have it all dried out and turn the vac off wait for a week and come back with your moisture meter and check again, I don't think it's going to be as dry as you would like.

Not to mention what did all that saturated foam laying right next to fiberglass covered plywood do to the structural integrity of the stringers and floor
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Not to mention what did all that saturated foam laying right next to fiberglass covered plywood do to the structural integrity of the stringers and floor

There's that too... and if the stringers and/or transom are wet inside all the sucking of warm dry air below the deck isn't going to dry them out or prevent them from rotting, if they haven't already rotted.

There's no way to reverse the damage that was done when the below deck structure got saturated, it will rot and become soft along with the deck, this may buy a little time... but not much.

Sorry if I sound like a pessimist, but I'm not... I'm a realist.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,137
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

I've been trying to dry out my boat as well, and a relatively dry climate sure can help.

Saturated foam can be tough, particularly if it is 30-40 years old, as it most likely no longer has the flotation or structural qualities that it once did. So, you may want to replace aged foam even if you can dry it out.
 

SigSaurP229

Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Boats tend to rot from the bottom up. I absolutely would NOT run it until I took core samples of the transom floor and stringers.
 

Handyman663

Cadet
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
24
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Question regarding foam: I am recarpeting my 2000 Tracker Deep V16 and discovered that the foam is partially saturated. It looks like expanded polyurethane to me. Is today's foam any better than 13 yrs ago, or will it just re-saturate? Riveted aluminum boats leak. Finally, who is in the business of applying new foam. There are no nearby marine dealers in Boulder.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

Question regarding foam: I am recarpeting my 2000 Tracker Deep V16 and discovered that the foam is partially saturated. It looks like expanded polyurethane to me. Is today's foam any better than 13 yrs ago, or will it just re-saturate? Riveted aluminum boats leak. Finally, who is in the business of applying new foam. There are no nearby marine dealers in Boulder.

You should start your own thread about this HM, asking questions about your boat on someone elses thread is kinda considered hijacking.

I'll be glad to answer your questions if you start your own thread.
 

Handyman663

Cadet
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
24
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

You should start your own thread about this HM, asking questions about your boat on someone elses thread is kinda considered hijacking.

I'll be glad to answer your questions if you start your own thread.

Point taken, Captain. I am an old guy who doesn't get all the internet protocol.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,109
Re: Dealing with saturated foam in hull

I am still in the process of drying it out but I can see light at the end of the tunnel. The weather here has been cool and damp this week so the drying process has really slowed down. When the weather warms up and dries out I will continue. This process really works well because the vacuum is drawing warm dry air down into the hull where the air absorbs some of the moisture and then exhausts the humid air out the vacuum. If I drilled a few more holes through the plywood floor it would speed things up too. The moisture meter I am using has a 6" probe about 1/8" thick that I stick down into the foam. All my readings are with the probe stuck down into the foam. You can feel the air being drawn down into the open holes.

How long was that tunnel, and are you sure that light isn't an incoming train? :facepalm:

How has summer & another 60 days in Montana treated the foam thru your drying process?
 
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