Delamination - Transom

[ondarvr]

Re: Delamination - Transom

I had some good and some not great results brushing it on, I think waiting too long before applying the first layer of mat was a problem, the tool gel looked like orange peel, it puckered up in places.
I was surprised the guy didn't apply some putty to the corners before the mat, whenever I did that I had air pockets under the tool gel.

I learned you can't do a temp fix on a mold with wax too.!
The resin gets under it or into it somehow.

The puckering you saw was from the gel coat being under cured in those areas. It can be from being too thin (most likely), under catalyzed or mixed poorly. When laminating resin is applied over the gel coat it will attack the uncured gummy layer on the surface, if the gel coat is too thin it may also be poorly cured and the solvents in the resin will soften and raise the gel coat in those areas.

The steps left out in the video were when they apply a second coat, or at least go back and touch up the thin spots and try to level the surface. Brush marks don?t level and flow like they do in some types of paint, this leaves ridges with thin spots between them.

Using putty in the corners can help to eliminate air pockets, but a thick unreinforced radius can be weak and crack more easily than if the glass follows the contour closely.

Clay can be used to fill defects in a mold, its cheap and easy to work with.

 

[Joker757]

Re: Delamination - Transom

Hello again ..

I dont understand the whole antifreeze thing..but If it were me and just the skin of wood was dark..Id just sand to good wood..not lam on special treated wood. If the wood is good..lay it up m8.

YD.

The glycol in the anti-freeze is known to work well in killing the rot fungi.

I bought the slow cure catalyst as I'm new to this and wanted to give myself a little more working time. Given that this is on a verticle surface can I thicken the resin a little with cabosil?

Lastly I want to re-seal the entire lower bilge with epoxy. Should I just roll on in thin coats? How many coats do you recommend? I was going to do two thin coats. This will fill in any abandoned screw holes, etc.

Lastly can anyone recommend a good bedding compound to use when I mount the drive transmom assembly? I also want to bed the underside of any screws going back in. Something that will stay flexible in case I need to remove later.

My materials should be here on Friday. I'll start to glass it back in on Saturday. Fan in the bilge is still going. It's been over 90 degrees the past few days. The transome feels warm and bone dry.

Looks like I won't make my target to have it back in the water by 4th July but hopefull the following week.

Thanks again guys for all the input.

 

[Joker757]

Re: Delamination - Transom

bump

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Delamination - Transom

Hello Joker..

I think 3m 4200 should do your trans plate and screws..

YD.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Delamination - Transom

No need to thicken the epoxy when applying glass,
unless theres a sharp inside corner which ought to get a filet of putty to form a radius.
I'd apply epoxy to the inside of the cutout to seal it up, it will suck it up, just keep adding more til it stops soaking in.

epoxy tends to be thicker than poly resin, which makes it a pain when applying glass cloth. Poly wets out the glass so much easier, but it goes off so much quicker, 6 of one....
I prefer speed .

You can also push some epoxy through the transom bolt holes, then drill them out again later. and you'll have nice clean holes ready for sealant.

If I was recoating the bilge I'd strip the old bilgepaint first, sand it all off, then apply epoxy putty (cabosil) to fill the holes, finish extending the transom glass far as necessary over it ...then just repaint with bilgecoat.

The previous owner of my boat just slopped resin on the bilge and it all ended up in a big puddle along the keel. I could probably sink a 2 inch screw into it.