Diagnostic software

[war623]

With the Evinrude diagnostic software, can you alter the timing on an engine just using the software or do you have to manually go into the engine?

 

[boobie]

Re: Diagnostic software

Along with the software you'll need a timing lite and the correct piston stop to verify timing pointer position. Yes you can alter it but you won't know where your at.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Along with the software you'll need a timing lite and the correct piston stop to verify timing pointer position. Yes you can alter it but you won't know where your at.

Thanks for the response. I still don't understand if you can adjust the timing using only the software. I understand using the timing light to get the correct setting but do I have to adjust the timing on the engine itself or will the software do it for me. It looks like I can tap the arrows on the s/w to advance or retard the settings and can save the settings but do I manually have to go and set it on the engine? Thanks again.

 

[boobie]

Re: Diagnostic software

No. You get your emm in sync ( from what the lap top says) with what the timing lite says what the timing is on the mtr and then lock it in. You do this with the arrows.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

No. You get your emm in sync ( from what the lap top says) with what the timing lite says what the timing is on the mtr and then lock it in. You do this with the arrows.

Thanks loads......I will try it tomorrow.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

The system is as simple as it it complicated. The engine uses variation of timing to keep it running at a pre-set idle rpm. If just keeping the timing light pointin as the engine runs, you will not get a stable reading, it will go up and down in a sort of SIN curve. This is what you have to do:
1: verifying the pointer at TDC.
2: Hook up the timing light and diagnostic software, go into ign verifying.
3.: Press 'start verifying', the engine 'locks' the timing (engine might be unstable and change rpm), read off the actual timing with the timing light.
4: Enter the value read into the computer. If comp says 3BTDC and you read 2BTDC, you enter 2. However it is a limit of how many degrees you may correct each time, think to remember it is 4 degrees. This means comp reads 3, but you read 9, you may only enter 3 + 4 =7. Then go out and start over again until you get the same reading on the comp and light.

Note that each time you 'lock' the timing the comp will most likely give you a different reading as you do not know where ignition is at the SIN curve. Just keep on until you get the same reading on lap-top as on light.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Wow...I think you lost me. I have the software version 2.6 and it has read outs saying "ignition timing should be" and "current offset".
I can change the current offset by tapping the up or down arrows. I am having a hard time attaining an idle speed to get a decent reading. I am getting readings of 20 to 35 degrees BTDC because I have to keep speeding up the engine to keep it from dying. Can I keep dropping the current offset until I get a decent idling speed? The timing was real close until I started messing with it and now I have it way off by just using the software.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

You have to 'lock' the engine at idle to get the correct reading. Hands off the throttle!! Start by 'dropping' the current offset, but do it in stages of 4 degrees, go out and start all over again You can not do it all in one step!!!!

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Thanks I'll try it

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

Remember you are not adjusting any timing, you are just confirming or correcting between what the engine uses (at the moment) as timing and what you read as real timing. Forget about the actual numbers, the difference is the only thing you have to concentrate on. That difference has to end up as 0!!

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Remember you are not adjusting any timing, you are just confirming or correcting between what the engine uses (at the moment) as timing and what you read as real timing. Forget about the actual numbers, the difference is the only thing you have to concentrate on. That difference has to end up as 0!!

I thought that I was adjusting the timing. I don't understand. Let's say at idling speed I get a reading of 20 BTDC. What would I adjust the current offset to. Also do I adjust it with the motor running or not. Does it also reset itself after shutting down the engine?
I told you I was new at this now you can believe me. lol

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

You are verifying that what the computer believes it has of timing is what the engine in reality has. Tolerances in plastic parts holding the CPS, magnetic field from flywheels, electronic components etc comes into play. There are no moving parts to 'adjust'.
-Start the engine, and hook up the timing light. As you have noticed, the timing goes up and down when engine is in idle.
- Go into timing verification mode of the software. The engine 'locks' the timing, and you will get a constant reading. At the same time, the engine might seem to run a bit unstable in rpm, let it do!!
- Read out the actual timing with the light, as an example 20 BTDC.
- From the software you get a reading of what the engine believes it is running at, as an example let us say 13BTDC.
You have a difference of 7 UP from what the engine believes it is running at.
-Go UP 4 degrees and press enter.
Go back in again into the verification process. Read out the REAL timing with the light, this time it might be 12BTDC. Read out the software what the engine believes it is running at, let us say 10BTDC. Difference is 2 UP. Enter the correction and press enter.
- Go back again and check, this time if both reading with light and what software says is the same. OK, and you are finished!!!
If not, one more time. Keep on until both readings are the same.
As the timing varies when engine is running, you will never get the same reading twice from the timing light, you have to stop the timing from cycling in the computer, but you never know where it stops until you start the verification process.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Thanks for the reply but if this does not adjust or alter the timing, what good does it do?

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Thanks for the reply but if this does not adjust or alter the timing, what good does it do?

I think I came up with an answer to my own question. It does not change the timing on the engine itself but syncs the computer on the engine to the flywheel setting. Is this right?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

I think I came up with an answer to my own question. It does not change the timing on the engine itself but syncs the computer on the engine to the flywheel setting. Is this right?

Yes! Or in other words - synchronizes the map and terrain. The comp (EMM) believes it is somewhere, you put it where it really is.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

Thanks for all the great help. I(we) have it running like a top.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

Great!! Be a happy boater.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

You are verifying that what the computer believes it has of timing is what the engine in reality has. Tolerances in plastic parts holding the CPS, magnetic field from flywheels, electronic components etc comes into play. There are no moving parts to 'adjust'.
-Start the engine, and hook up the timing light. As you have noticed, the timing goes up and down when engine is in idle.
- Go into timing verification mode of the software. The engine 'locks' the timing, and you will get a constant reading. At the same time, the engine might seem to run a bit unstable in rpm, let it do!!
- Read out the actual timing with the light, as an example 20 BTDC.
- From the software you get a reading of what the engine believes it is running at, as an example let us say 13BTDC.
You have a difference of 7 UP from what the engine believes it is running at.
-Go UP 4 degrees and press enter.
Go back in again into the verification process. Read out the REAL timing with the light, this time it might be 12BTDC. Read out the software what the engine believes it is running at, let us say 10BTDC. Difference is 2 UP. Enter the correction and press enter.
- Go back again and check, this time if both reading with light and what software says is the same. OK, and you are finished!!!
If not, one more time. Keep on until both readings are the same.
As the timing varies when engine is running, you will never get the same reading twice from the timing light, you have to stop the timing from cycling in the computer, but you never know where it stops until you start the verification process.

When you say hook up the timing light and notice the timing go up and down, do you put the chalk mark on 0 TDC to read it?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: Diagnostic software

No 'chalk' mark. The timing might jump between 20ATDC and 20BTDC (As example only). 'Adjusting' the timing is they way to keep a constant RPM. This is why when you 'lock' the timing engine rpm might be unstable. You may only read/confirm/correct when timing is 'locked'. Until you figure out how the engine reacts on verification changes, stay within 2 degr changes.

 

[war623]

Re: Diagnostic software

No 'chalk' mark. The timing might jump between 20ATDC and 20BTDC (As example only). 'Adjusting' the timing is they way to keep a constant RPM. This is why when you 'lock' the timing engine rpm might be unstable. You may only read/confirm/correct when timing is 'locked'. Until you figure out how the engine reacts on verification changes, stay within 2 degr changes.

I don't understand how you can see the timing go up and down with the timing light without the chalk mark. How do I see it then?