Disconnecting the Oil pump, can you confirm Which Wires?

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
I've been having issues with this oil pump (96 ELPTO 75 hp Mercury). It's time for me to bypass or disconnect the oil pump - and mix my own 50:1 gas (2.6 oz per gallon). I've approached that point of no return by pulling the oil tank. Next step is to cut the oil line and plug it. Before I take the leap, I'd like to see if anyone can confirm that I'm going to pull the correct sets of wires:

1. Bottom of the oil tank, 2 blue wires (Switch Assembly) - pull apart @ connectors.
2. Enricher Valve has yellow and black wires sneaking through the motor - Disconnect @ 2 screw connectors.

Pull off the oil tank and mix 50:1.

Will the motor still have a high temp alarm? Any way to test that once this project is done??

Thanks in advance !! zul
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,946
The 2 light blue wires with a white stripe go to your oil tank float. I never tested that circuit but the plan is to put the tan or tan with a lt. blue stripe at ground potential to report an alarm.....OT or low oil. Therefore, I'd assume that the wires are open circuited until the float gets close to the switch (low oil in the tank) and the switch in the tank closes and grounds the circuit setting off the alarm.

I did my '02 90....about the same engine as yours except a little larger hp......all I did was pull off the pump, pull out the gear, check for anything loose up the hole, put it back in and went on my way.....never a problem. Just left the oil in the tank that was in there and everything hooked up like it was.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
You pulled out the pump?!! Most everything I've read says to remove oil tank and cap the oil line. The pump just stays in. But your boat is working so, good on ya!

I found another web forum post that suggests to disconnect the 2-blue wires near bottom of oil tank. So I've done that and I'm going to see if I can get it to go on the muffs and then the lake.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,946
It can't get any simpler than that. There are 2 screws as I recall, maybe 3 that hold the pump in. There is enough room to pull the pump, turn it adequately to get the shaft out, pull the gear with it's driving shaft, turn the pump back around, push it in the mounting hole, install the screws and that's it. Don't have to touch anything else. Why make a simple process complicated is my motto.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
Thanks for the additional post mark. If I get u correctly, I will pull out and remove the shaft .. remove and flip the pump around and bolt it back inside. Does this create an air tight solution? I don't want any air coming into the fuel system.... ?

Hey - Thx again. Looking forward to get this motor running right.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
I found that disconnecting other wires not needed. Just the 2 on the tank bottom ... or go w Texarkana method.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
My motor heated up and has white smoke coming out exhaust. Probably from running double oil? How can I get the oil out of the motor lines? Research says the only way to expell oil is on the lake at thrust which is heating me up!!

I've a hunch there might be water in my gas tank so I've drained it out. Ragged it dry.

Oil tank is pulled. Take apart the oil pump and rag out any oil I can get to. Gas tank is empty.

Mix 50:1 gas and try again? My plugs keep getting wet with oil and it won't start. I have new plugs and extra plugs....

Any ideas ??
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
8,313
Oil burns blue water comes out the exhaust white. If you are overheating you might want to address that possibly a new water pump
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
Water pump/impeller is near new. Pee valve flows good and I frequently check the temp of the pee stream (which has always been a good temp).

Is it possible there is water in the gas causing white exhaust? Several things led me to think it was possible that there was some water in gas tank so that is drained now.
 

DavidMoore

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
183
Hi Zul

I doubt there is enough water in the fuel to give white smoke. If there was that much water your plugs would be all clean and new looking.

Too much oil won't make the engine overheat either, running double oil is normal during the motor break in period, it will make extra smoke but won't hurt your engine.

I would be more concerned with finding out what's causing the overtemp alarm than worrying about the autolube. It's not too much oil.

Have you had a compression test done, that would be my starting point.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
Did my own compression test 115-110-110
Ran on lake for ten min mostly mid-throttle 3000 rpm.. then it konked out and I lost electric for a few min. Batt on volt meter was good both at rest and when running (trying to see if restrictor/regulator is ok so I've been monitoring volts). Switched to batt #2, cranked and cranked. No start just oil wet plugs. Wipe and repeat.

After that. .. another comp test 101-101-101.

Yikes. Help?! And thx.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,946
Thanks for the additional post mark. If I get u correctly, I will pull out and remove the shaft .. remove and flip the pump around and bolt it back inside. Does this create an air tight solution? I don't want any air coming into the fuel system.... ?

Hey - Thx again. Looking forward to get this motor running right.
You are not touching the fuel or oil systems. You are merely removing the drive mechanism that pumps oil to be mixed with the fuel and since this is a positive displacement pump you don't have to worry about oil coming out if the shaft isn't turning, unlike a centrifugal pump like you would use to pump water out of a hole, or like your impeller in your water pump. That's why I said it is so easy as you are not opening any fuel or oil lines. When I said flip it around that was only to get the gear and accompanying shaft out. Once you do that you put it back just like it was.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,946
On the temp and white smoke:

1. Your engine should be plumbed like mine ('02 90 big brother to yours) with the pee coming off the exhaust manifold water jacket. Check it out. Manifold is the big flat plate on the port (left looking from the rear of the engine with a rt. angle white nylon hose barb connected to your pee hose). That water is present as long as your impeller is turning and the engine is in the water of sufficient depth to cover the water pump, or pushing a boat.

2. There are 2 cooling valves that control the water in the powerhead which are the thermostat which should have a 143F pellet for it's opening temp and the popoff valve that is pressure controlled and is forced open at 2500 rpm (serv. manual talk). Your OT sensor is 195F. 140F is the temperature setting for a domestic hot water heater for a reference. Depending on the ambient temp and humidity, you can get steam off your hot water at home for another reference.

3. White smoke is boiling water so you have to figure if it's normal or you have a cooling problem. You can check your powerhead with your hand. At 140-150 you ought to be able to keep you hand on the top rear of it for several seconds after running for 5 minutes roughly.

4. Water in the gas doesn't combust. Besides you said you drained the tank and are put in fresh 50:1 mix.

5. On your different compression readings something must be stuck. Besides, seldom if ever do you get within a pound of identical compression on an engine's cylinders.
 

zul

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
235
Motor started twice this morning (on the muffs). Idled a bit rough. Pee valve working great. Rev'd it a bit for a few minutes and shut it down. A bit hot on the head but not overly scorching.

Then it wouldn't start. Charged batt. Still wouldn't start.

Hmmm. Frustrating.
 
Last edited:

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,946
No but it looks like a check valve or "mechanical diode" for a suction that's generated somewhere. I'd say it is supposed to hang like it is so that the ball is free allowing free passage of air when not called upon to accomplish it's intended purpose. Other thing it may be is a vent for something and the ball is to close it off if the engine partially submerges, like you would have in heavy following seas, or if you were on plane and chopped the throttle dumping the transom and getting a load of back wash.
 
Top