DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wrong)

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

so.....

15-20 yds of 1.5 oz CSM
15-20 yds of 1708 Biax
Gallon of Cabosil
1/2 lb of Chopped 1/4" fibers

or should it be less for 1708?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

If you want to put a layer of 1708 on top of the deck then I'd say you'll need 10-12yds. If not then 6-8 should do for the stringers and transom and tabbing inthe deck.

 

[oops!]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

i wouold actually double the csm.....if you are doing a deck....you have one layer underneath......that is 30 feet, and two on top.....that is 90 feet. total......now the strings is another 30 feet.....and the transom is 10 feet. that is 130 feet. or 45 yards.

basically a roll. the 1708 will just be 50 feet....or 16 yards.

easy 15 gals of resin....thats $380 for the resin (expencive) and the matt and 1708 depends on the supplier.

say a 100 bux for cabosil, fibres, rollers, buckets. cages ( i get a lot of my big fuzzy rollers at the dollar shop, wayyyyy cheaper)
get a lieter of mekp......

by the way.......use the metric system for measuring......its waay easier.......if you are mixing mekp and resin at 2%.......you pour off 100 ml of resin.....and 2 ml of mekp.....its litterally that easy.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Hey jarrpal001,

Welcome to the Iboats Drydock.

Just came aboard to check out your tri-hull. Nice Catch!

Too bad on the poor repair job, coulda, woulda, shoulda... Mine had the po's cut and nail repair job done on it too...:facepalm:

Anyhooooo, that's what Iboats is here for. These guys will help us do it right.

After a bunch of sweat, blood, tears and cash... we should end up with a real nice prize that we will be proud to get wet.

Best of Luck and Godspeed,
GT1M

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Looking at your pics, those are the factory stringers. That's is how your boat was designed. Again no need to raise the Keel stringer but you can if you want, I just don't see the need. I'd use the Arauco Plywood for Everything. Deck, Transom and Stringers. Very good stuff to work with. No need to lap joint it. Just but em together and use some Titebond III wood glue and some 3/8" x 18" "Sister" pieces on either side to bring em together.

Here's some Drawings that might help you visualize how to fabricate everything...

Click the Pics to Enlarge

View attachment 120215View attachment 120216

what would happen if i just used csm and no 1708? if i just used two layers of csm on each stringer and transom? one on deck?

 

[zopperman]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Don't do that. It won't be strong enough. You need 1708... those are all STRUCTURAL parts of the hull.

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

ok guys
correct me if im wrong. ive been reading like crazy!
to do the transom only here is my calculations
transom is about 6ft x 3ft = 18sq ft.
it will take 72oz of polyester resin to cover 18sq ft of 1.5 csm.
if i add two layers of 1.5 csm on both sides than i will be using 4 x 72oz = 298oz(about 2.25 gallons)
am i correct?

 

[JDA1975]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

what would happen if i just used csm and no 1708? if i just used two layers of csm on each stringer and transom? one on deck?

It will end up like your botched shop repair....spend the extra time/money, or it will cost you more when you have to do it again in a couple seasons. Doing it right will last you a long time...my boat is 30 years old, and this is first time its been restored, so if it lasted 30 years from factory, it will last longer doing it myself and doing it right. I have thought of short cuts before and luckily, thanks to this community's intervention, I have found doing it right the first time is better!

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

It will end up like your botched shop repair....spend the extra time/money, or it will cost you more when you have to do it again in a couple seasons. Doing it right will last you a long time...my boat is 30 years old, and this is first time its been restored, so if it lasted 30 years from factory, it will last longer doing it myself and doing it right. I have thought of short cuts before and luckily, thanks to this community's intervention, I have found doing it right the first time is better!

since ive never worked with fiberglass i was just wondering what would happen.
are my calc right?

 

[JDA1975]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

[SIZE=-2]

[SIZE=-2]Resin requirements for 1.5 oz mat.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-2]38" - Needs approx. 24oz resin per yard (from US Composites site) So, 3' X 6' is 2 sqare yards 20 48oz of resin per layer of CSM. 2 layers per side 96oz of resin per side 2 sides 192 oz of resin this is just for the CSM layers, you will need 1708 there for structure as well [/SIZE]

[/SIZE]

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Looking at your pics, those are the factory stringers. That's is how your boat was designed. Again no need to raise the Keel stringer but you can if you want, I just don't see the need. I'd use the Arauco Plywood for Everything. Deck, Transom and Stringers. Very good stuff to work with. No need to lap joint it. Just but em together and use some Titebond III wood glue and some 3/8" x 18" "Sister" pieces on either side to bring em together.

Here's some Drawings that might help you visualize how to fabricate everything...

Click the Pics to Enlarge

View attachment 120215View attachment 120216

i called us-composite and the guy i spoke with told me i should epoxy the transom wood together and 1708 the whole thing then attach it to the hull skin. is this right?
my plans were similar to what friscojarrett did with his boat. i was either going to use two 3/4 ply or 3 1/2 ply(that what my boat had) use pl to glue them together then csm with 1.5, use pb on the hull skin, clamp, pb all around, tab with 1708 then two layers of 1708 over the inner transom.
which is better?

 

[zopperman]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

What you said is fine.. I'd also do a layer of mat between the layers of 1708... The guys at USC know their products... they don't know boat restoration like we do here on iboats... they told me a lot of stuff that was inaccurate.. not to bash them.. great company..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Here's my recommended method of fabricating your transom... PB to glue the transom to the outer skin. I also like to drill some holes thru the wood transom and allow the pb to squeeze thru. This keeps there from being any air pockets between the transom and the outer skin. You can use PL, or Titebond III wood glue to glue the wood laminates together, really does not make a big difference. Just make sure to get a good even coat of adhesive what ever you choose to use. Once the Transom is at it's final thickness, make sure to precoat the outside of the new wood with resin and let it dry or get tacky before applying any more resin and CSM. Do a GOOD job on the edges and make sure there are NO VOIDS in the plys on the edges. If there are Fill em with wood putty or PB before you apply the CSM. Rounding the edges with a routher makes wrapping the edges a LOT easier. If you tear the CSM instead of cutting it, it will wrap over the edges more easily. If you take care in fabricating your transom and then take care in it's maintenance, it will last 4 -5 decades with out any problems. Mine is 60 yrs old and still going strong.

Click the pic to Enlarge

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

Here's my recommended method of fabricating your transom... PB to glue the transom to the outer skin. I also like to drill some holes thru the wood transom and allow the pb to squeeze thru. This keeps there from being any air pockets between the transom and the outer skin. You can use PL, or Titebond III wood glue to glue the wood laminates together, really does not make a big difference. Just make sure to get a good even coat of adhesive what ever you choose to use. Once the Transom is at it's final thickness, make sure to precoat the outside of the new wood with resin and let it dry or get tacky before applying any more resin and CSM. Do a GOOD job on the edges and make sure there are NO VOIDS in the plys on the edges. If there are Fill em with wood putty or PB before you apply the CSM. Rounding the edges with a routher makes wrapping the edges a LOT easier. If you tear the CSM instead of cutting it, it will wrap over the edges more easily. If you take care in fabricating your transom and then take care in it's maintenance, it will last 4 -5 decades with out any problems. Mine is 60 yrs old and still going strong.

Click the pic to Enlarge

View attachment 122903

if i dont use PB what else could i use?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

You could use thickened epoxy too! Why do you not want to use thickened poly resin to glue the transom to the outerskin of the boat. It is the most common method used to accomplish this task.

 

[oops!]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

[SIZE=-2]

[SIZE=-2]Resin requirements for 1.5 oz mat.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-2]38" - Needs approx. 24oz resin per yard (from US Composites site) So, 3' X 6' is 2 sqare yards 20 48oz of resin per layer of CSM. 2 layers per side 96oz of resin per side 2 sides 192 oz of resin this is just for the CSM layers, you will need 1708 there for structure as well [/SIZE]

[/SIZE]

lol....the calculations for resin usage are totally dependent on several factors....
for a supplier to give a baseline formula like that is ok.....but in real life it does not work that way.

temps......degree of surface prep... different drynesses of a substraight .....change all these factors.
not to mention that a novice (or even a pro) will coat glass with the same resin to glass ratio every time....

when you glass......it is common to use too much resin to wet out the glass.....the excess resin is removed with the resin roller....and removed from the project.....it is now useless. thus....your calculations are right out the window. it is also common to have resin left over in a bucket after a job. this is waste.
using a slide rule and calculator to determine what you need for the materials.....just gives you a headache, and is allways wrong.

order what i estimated. and you will be good.

if you cannot afford it all in one sha-bang...........get your plywood now......wait till next pay check.....order half the materials on the list. (order for what you will be doing the next two weeks......then order the final batch....this will break down the order so its not all paid for in one shot. and much easier on the pocket book

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

You could use thickened epoxy too! Why do you not want to use thickened poly resin to glue the transom to the outerskin of the boat. It is the most common method used to accomplish this task.

reason i asked is because i wanted to do it this weekend but couldnt find the cabosil and chopped mat anywhere close by. so i was wondering what other material i can use. my boat had some kind of body filler on the corners.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

I understand your wanting to "Git er Dun" but... In this case I would wait and use the right stuff. You will also need the PB to do the Filleting around the edges so IMHO you need to wait till you can get the proper materials. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear.

 

[oops!]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

lol....you are in florida bud.....

gotta be tons of boat builders/repair in the area.....call them and ask if they have any spare they can sell you......chances are ...they will tell you where to get supplies locally

 

[jarrpal001]

Re: DIY-1972 thunderbird shawnee tri-hull boat restoration-(after shop repair gone wr

you guys are right. ill wait.