DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

[StevenT]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

Any tips on drawing and cutting out stringers? The old stringers were toast, no chance to make a pattern.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

Do you know the original height of the deck...?
Do you know where the original stringers went...?
Run some string lines across the hull at the height of the deck, subtract the expected thickness of the deck, say 3/4 ply +/- 1/8" for the layers of glass...
Then take some drop measurement from the string lines to the bottom of the hull, front to back where the stringers used to be...
That'll give you some fairly close numbers to work with...
I also like to use a hot glue gun and strips of cardboard to make a fairly close template of the shape of the bottom of the stringers...







All of that will get you real close, but you will still end up doing some final fitting of each piece, I left myself a proud 1/4"-3/8" extra material to trim...

 

[StevenT]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

Do you know the original height of the deck...? Yes I left the deck lip for measurement purposes.
Do you know where the original stringers went...? Yes I do.

I did the drop measuring.

Can I fill the gaps with peanut butter? How close do I need to be? Thanks for the post GT

 

[Badfish95]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

IMHO, Peanut butter(with fiber) is the ideal material to fill the gaps with, however with the setup time and nature of the resin mixture it can turn into a clusterfu@K in a hurry.

That being said, I used PL glue. I cursed PL glue during my stringer installation, but only because I was a ramrod and tried to glass over it before it gassed off(Be sure to wait at LEAST 72 hours!). The PL glue is in a tube and is easily dispensed onto your stringers. It expands when it cures so that it will make good contact with the hull and stringer. The key is to not use too much. Its primary job is to fill that gap and avoid hard spots(Not adhesion). The fiberglass tabbing will add strength and secure the stringer to the hull.

Peanut Butter is stronger and will bond better to the stringer tabbing. The problem is it starts to set in ~45 minutes. Even when you do the zip lock bag/cake frosting trick it can be hard to work with. As far as how close you need to be, I'd say between 1/8-1/4" is fine as long as you get enough bedding under the stringer. YMMV.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

I prefer PB for my application...easier to work with and faster working times...
You can set the stringers in place with small "Dabs" [3-6" long on both sides of the stringer] of PB in various spots along the length of the stringer to secure it in place, then when it has set up sufficiently, 1/2 hr. to a couple of hours, you can continue filling your gaps and bedding the stringers to the hull...
If you want, you can immediately do your tabbing with CSM...I actually like to do it while the PB is still soft and pliable...also, if you build some type of support jig, you can just PB and Tab as you go...




I do a couple foot long section of PB filleting, then lay the pre-cut CSM Tabbing strip over it and give it the nice rounded over shape the you need...and repeat, until you get the entire stringer bed and tabbed...for added strength, I overlap the previous CSM by about 3-4"...
Keep in mind this is much easier said than done, it will take some practice and getting used to and if you have an assistant that has some idea of what they are doing, it will go very quickly...

As far as gaps, I had most as small as 1/8"-1/4" to some as large as 3/4"...I just filled with PB, Tabbed, and layered with 1708...Battleship strong!

 

[StevenT]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

I ordered some Valspar gloss black paint for my out-drive. I would like to paint my manifold and risers with it. My concern is how hot do the manifolds get? Should I use a high heat paint?

 

[StevenT]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

I finally received my Valspar paint today. Most will not ship Valspar to Ohio and several other states. I understand it has a chemical that some states don't like. That must mean it's good stuff. Can anyone recommend a good etching primer?

 

[StevenT]

Re: DIYer VS. Rot - 1988 Chaparral SX 1900 Rebuild - With Pix

I'm back in action. Glued the transom together with Titebond glue. I'm sure I have a good bond. The proof will be when I cut out the key hole. More pix then.

[/URL][/IMG]