Nope. But have you ever heard the expression --- this is like driving a tack with a post mall? Your boat, your money so nothing we can add if it works as planned.
1. They have rubber seals inside, and they make rubber boots that will cover them copletely. If water intrusion in the switches becomes a problem or I decide to hit them with a pressure washer, I will install the boots.
2. The boat wont go 88mph so the USCG doesnt requie one. :lol:
If you look in the picture above, you can see a 10 gauge wire connecting the fuse blocks. That normally wont be used, but if there is a problem, I can open one of the 50 amp breakers above the fuse blocks and plug in a fuse on the 10 gauge purple wire to combine the fuse blocks.
I had it made. It is .090 plus or minus stainless plate laser marked. I would have preferred actual engraving but I couldnt find a place that wanted to do it.
Oh, as to looking like an idiot... That usually falls on the guy that shows up here, has never wired a boat, and doesn't want to listen to what experianced people are telling them. Even then, we don't call them idiots. Maybe have their posts deleted for abuse of the forum, but not call them names... (Hint: Tread lightly in the future...)
"The main goal of this design was to allow for a day at anchor on the lake listening to the stereo and yet not have to worry about having enough juice to start the motor. I also designed a bit of redundnacy for safety. The system is flexibile, you can start on either battery and keep the batteries seperate or parallel them together. It is also made easy enough to use to that my wife can easily operate it."
Well lets see, if the above is what you want and I assume it is then the single unit will take care of it. Take a look at the specs. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180170.pdf (The only thing I see it won't do is let you try to start the engine from a dead house battery on it's own.)
Obviously money is not a problem based on the Garmin gauges!
Bubba, as far as being standard fare, I can't believe you can make that comment based on the Rube Goldberg design you are attempting to do a series parallel battery hookup.
Don I am going by what he said he wanted in the original post. Combine/ isolate the two batteries, run devices off the house battery without draining the starting battery, recharge both batteries when the engine is running, simple to operate remotely. Sounds like pretty standard fare to me. Maybe I am missing something...
How do you use one single on/off switch to operate two different systems?
That is all that Bluesea switch is, a SPST switch.
It can be turned off and on electrically or manually, but it's still a single pole single throw switch with a large amperage capacity.
"The main goal of this design was to allow for a day at anchor on the lake listening to the stereo and yet not have to worry about having enough juice to start the motor. I also designed a bit of redundnacy for safety. The system is flexibile, you can start on either battery and keep the batteries seperate or parallel them together. It is also made easy enough to use to that my wife can easily operate it."
Just not sure how you can do the underlined part above with a single switch.
