duel line pressure tank restoration

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

It's been a while since I posted here, but I have been busy, here's is a picture of the freshly painted tank and top, and all the parts after a good cleaning, I finally got the complete gasket kit for the restoration, and am now ready to put this tank back together, it's a good thing I posted those pictures earlier, because I can't remember now how it's supposed to go back together with out referring back to those pictures, as I put this back together, I'll try to get better pictures then What I posted in here previously.

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

I did some looking on ebay and found a tank edging, so I bought it, acording to the ad, it says it's supposed to help prevent scratching up or marring the bottom of the boat, I'm thinking that now that I have everything cleaned up and repainted, I can use all the help I can get putting it all back together with out scratching up or marring the paint on my new rebuilt old gas tank, to heck with the boat, I don't want no scratches on my new tank, so this edge molding can't hurt.

after I got the molding, it doesn't look to me like it's anything more then automotive door edge molding, I probably could have gone to the auto parts store and picked up something very close to what I bought off ebay.

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

I have to admit, once the molding is installed, it looks pretty good, a nice quality set of decals to finish it off, and I think it would make for a nice looking tank

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

the next step would be to re-install the top mounting plate, I bead blasted this and cleaned up the screws

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

the first problem I ran into was the broken hose ear, I thought about welding it, but figured it would be somewhat costly, and probably wouldn't look right, so I ended up cutting off the other ear, grinding down the edges of the tank top, and adding the bolt on ears from an older tank top that I decided to use as parts.

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

the next step is to install the fuel gauge window and gasket, I did notice that the gasket was a little different in the kit, it's cork, but it is a little thicker and covers more area then the old one so I decided to use it, I feel it will make a better seal.

 

[Sea18Horse]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

Greetings! I've been lurking around here for a while and have been studying various threads including this one. I have a 14' ClackaCraft drift boat that came with a '57 18hp Johnson and my older brother recently gave me a '56 10hp Johnson. My original tank is a '57 and earlier aluminum push button style with one cleat broken off and replaced with a sheet aluminum piece, the float sunk and the push button bent and frozen. The 10hp came with a 58 and later style, also with one cleat broken off but with a plastic push button that works fine. As near as I can tell it's a late '58 Evinrude Cruis-a-day SIX tank. I recently scored an almost perfect '57 and earlier aluminum push button top at a local marine salvage place (Island Marine Salvage in deer island).

What I'm wondering is does it appear to you guys that Aside from the early '50s tall tank is the pick up tube the same from one style to the next? I'm planning to use the new early top on the late tank but I don't have a pick up tube for it.

BTW the gas cap on my original tank had been sawed off short much like yours. The original owner sawed it off so it would fit under the front seat. Maybe yours is the same situation.

So it looks like you're using the original plastic push button top with a set of early '50s bolt on cleats. But it looked like the top you got on ebay was in good shape. I sense a story behind that . Will you need four extra sealing washers for that set up?

Love the look of that tank edging! Might have to do that myself.

Have you seen the decals at nymarine.ca? Beautiful stuff. But you can't order the decals until you know what motor you'll be using it with ! Don't forget the "warning" decal that goes on the cleat nearest the gas cap. It's long gone on most tanks these days so a lot of people aren't even aware of them. They go on with the "CAUTION" closest to the cap.

Have a great day and keep the good stuff comin'

Cheers..............Todd

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

Hi Todd,

welcome to Iboats, you'll find a lot of useful information here and a whole bunch of great people, I'm no expert on this stuff, this is my first tank rebuild, so don't take my word for the absolute truth, because I may be in error, but I do have one of the early tanks, (50 to 57) and I just took the top off it to get a picture of the pick up tube, I'd have to say that the tubes will be the same if your going from late/early to early/late same gallon tanks (ie: 6 to 6) the tube in the picture is on an early model 4 gallon tank, and this one is different then the ones on the 6 gallon tanks, but the housing that it screws into is the same as both the late model tanks (58 to 60) so I'd have to say yes, the tube is the same from one style to the next, if your talking about the same capacity tanks.

it's my understanding that the early tanks with the metal primer button were prone to corrosion in and around that primer button, I would think that if your going to switch and swap parts, that you would be better to fix the top you have that has the plastic primer button as I would think you are less likely to have problems with a plastic primer button then you would with the metal ones, that's why I chose to use the parts off the older top to fix the newer one because I wanted to stick with the plastic primer button.

and I'm going to check out those decals because that's the last thing I need to do to this tank to make it complete, I've looked around a little bit and from the decals I've seen, other then a few on ebay, they seem costly, and yes, I remember the caution sticker on the ear, it was on the tank top I bought off ebay, and as much as I paid for that top, I decided to not use it, I did buy a rebuild kit for it, so I figured I'd rebuild it and hang onto it for a spare. I decided to go with the top that had the broken ear on it, the tank is turning out to be a mix of parts from old model to late model, but I think I'm ending up with the best of both worlds, so that's why I chose to fix it the way I did.
Stuart

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

next comes what they call the disk valve, I've read a couple of little articles on the internet stating that you don't want to lose this disk valve, so for size comparison, I took a picture of it next to a penny so you can see how small it is, and if your anything like me, I can lose my own tool box in a heart beat, so unless I'm really watching this disk valve, I'd have to consider it lost, don't lose it, your tank won't work with out it.

 

[Mr.Stuart]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

it's getting late, and I got somewhat side tracked, so I kind of slapped the top on it and to see what the finished product would look like, when you compare it to what it looked like when I got it, I'd say it's seen a big improvement, if anyone still wants better pictures or a rundown on how to finish the rebuild, I'll get more pictures.

the paint on the tank is automotive valspar, I had it painted at the same body shop that painted the boat. the paint should hold up pretty well, the color was color matched to another tank I have, so I really don't know if the color is exact, but it's pretty darn close, the only thing to ad now is the decals.

 

[V8-240Z]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

Have you seen the decals at nymarine.ca? Beautiful stuff. But you can't order the decals until you know what motor you'll be using it with ! Don't forget the "warning" decal that goes on the cleat nearest the gas cap. It's long gone on most tanks these days so a lot of people aren't even aware of them. They go on with the "CAUTION" closest to the cap.

I don't think that "caution" Decal is or was used on the older tops with the bolt on ears, I'll order the Evinrude decals from them to finish off the tank.

is there any way to get the fuel fitting apart that goes to the motor, I haven't painted the one I have yet beccause I haven't figured out how to get it apart, are the fuel nipples pressed into it? they look pressed in to me. is there anyway to get them out? it seems like it would be easy to paint and restore if I could get the nipples out.

 

[reppdogg]

Re: duel line pressure tank restoration

I have seen good reproduction decals on ebay for the pressure tanks, as cheap as $5.