E-tec 40 hp

[Crosbyman]

540 hrs is about 50 / year ... nothing to worry about if you keep giving it TLC. it should run fine another 20 years minimum (1000 hrs more)

some ETEC have been run 2000 hrs
new impeller every 3-4 years to be safe but I have gone much longer on my 75hp
check gear oil mid season or minimum once a year.
run it with 2+4d and Carbon guard additives. use clean water free gas and some oil in the fuel (see oly'S brew)

since 2008 ETEC DO NOT inject xd-100 oil in the fuel supply .ETEC folks stopped the pratice which is why Oly's brew is recommended.
no wing nuts to blow the EMM !!!
1-2 carwax it every year to keep the shine
flush it if used in salt water !

my 75 has less hours since 2005... never had inj. cleaned but I know I am due !! still my engine runs perfect start on a dime every Sping after 6 months storage down to -20F sometimes. tank ALWAYS full when stored. Do a winterize when storing long periods

run EV Diagnostics if problems creep up. keep records of coefficient file (inj coefficients)

keep filters clean !

btw that grey fuel line.... some have been known to self destruct and screwy problems develop

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I'm on my second etec...sold the first one at 800 and some change and it ran perfect.

When I inquired at e-nation about longevity, Alaskan fisherman we're getting 7000 hrs out of them before they needed anything major.

I think your good, trust me.

BTW, when I sold mine after 12 years the only engine component that went out was my starter and it was on warrantee.

Enjoy every moment with it and never sell it.

 

[JimDirt]

it is critical for you to get a log dump of the memory on the EMM . Not to spoil your hopes but the history log would tell you more than just looks.

it will tell you how & when the owner took care of things like clearing an overheat condition with an new impeller, getting repeat alarms etc....

here is what a report looks like. if you do get one put it in a file sharing site like dropbox and post the link on the ETEC user board for expert opinions.

Notice my report excessive code 38 NO OIL eventually cleared with a SW upgrade and a new oil pump in my year 7 of ownership. notice the temperature log of the EMM itself.

So a week or so ago, I had the hose connected and the engine running checking something out, and it died. Wouldn’t start at all. Shot of ether, nothing. So I started checking thing out and I found the + battery cable loose. I had taken both sides off before a fishing trip about a month ago, cleaned them, and I guess maybe I didn’t tighten it enough. And no wingnuts on the cable connection, 3/8” hex nuts. So I tightened it down and it fired right up. But the volt meter on the dash reads about 11.5. It used to always read around 13 when running. So I disconnected the battery, checked the volts, 12.4. Started the motor, checked at the battery, 12.4. Shut it off disconnected, and checked the battery, 12.4. That leaves me questioning the dash meter. But
I orderd a diagnostic cable and software, got it installed on a laptop. But the cable doesn’t match this, which is where the cable is supposed to connect, I think?

 

[Crosbyman]

is there no triangular connector under the fw cover ??

 

[JimDirt]

A little update. I plugged in the onboard charger overnight and this morning the battery read 13.2 volts. I fired up the motor, the dash meter is still reading around 11.5. Shut it off and the battery reads 13.0. I think the battery is probably going bad. It is 6 years old. And this is the end of the cable.

 

[JimDirt]

is there no triangular connector under the fw cover ??
View attachment 418735

I’ll look a bit closer. I shouldn’t have to pull all the cover off to get to it?

 

[Crosbyman]

no it can just drop down top strarboard side

 

[Crosbyman]

see etec owners board for etec issues

https://www.etecownersgroup.com/search

 

[saltchuckmatt]

That first plug is the nema 2000 plug. The port for the diagnostic cable is on top slightly to the starboard side. It should be capped. Remove the cap and plug it in. When your wires were loose it could have messed something up. Any led lights lit up on the emm?

 

[JimDirt]

That first plug is the nema 2000 plug. The port for the diagnostic cable is on top slightly to the starboard side. It should be capped. Remove the cap and plug it in. When your wires were loose it could have messed something up. Any led lights lit up on the emm?

I found the emm port but apparently I need an adapter of some sort. Are there lights on the EMM Itself? I didn’t know to check that . But I will. I started the engine a bit ago and the volt meter on the dash was showing about 12.5. I’m beginning to think that the gauge is screwy. Could I check the voltage going into gauge with a volt meter?

 

[Crosbyman]

setting up the comm port is a bit tricky... my last W11 install of EV diag 5.9 was a challenge and I had to go into settings * and disable a security control to allow the silly thing to work.

may I suggest you read up on user GEB,s document first as I fetch more detains for you...also see video

Evinrude Diagnostics Version 5 A Guide To Getting Started

EVINRUDE DIAGNOSTICS VERSION 5 A GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED September 2021 INTRODUCTION This guide is primarily intended to help Evinrude E-TEC owners. The words...

docs.google.com

 

[Crosbyman]

I ordered my 5.9 from amazon and here is some + info ... that eventually saved me...
EV works with special FTDI drivers that allow a USB port to talk to the EMM with the special cable. you must have those drivers installed on your computer
this needda lot of fidling so if you are not at ease with SW loads and drivers maybe a friend can help out.. patience brings joy!!

 

[Crosbyman]

btw you can get a copy of your "closest year" service manual here just download 2013 likely a AA mdl.... but check AB etc...

Repair Manuals G1 Motors & Gearcase - Google Drive

drive.google.com