Re: Evinrude e-tec or Yamaha 4 Stroke
Backfire, you continue to display your ignorance.

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A lot of props do not reflect actual pitch performance by what is stamped on the blade.
Are you saying the 15 pitch prop shown on the E-Tech data was not really a 15 pitch prop? Gee, could this be related to what Ive been saying all along?...that something doesnt jive!<br /><br />So Mr. E-Tech man, then what pitch
really is the E-Techs 15 pitch prop? And why would Bombardier come up with test data indicating a 15 pitch if it was something other than that? To make the comparison look fair against Yamahas 15 pitch? And what about the 40hp with that huge 17 pitch on it? It doesnt jive either. So is it really a 19 pitch? On a 40 hp? Come on. Youre cracking me up here Backfire!

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This was in the 55 hp-115 hp "popular prop size" that Forky doesn't know exists,15,17,19,21.
You said a 17 pitch was a popular size for a 40 hp. And you were wrong. Now youre posting this crap, which only makes you look more desperate and ridiculous.

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When the OMC SST props first came on the market
Since when did we start assuming the E-Tech data included a SST prop? No indication of that.

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Different geometry? No, same pitch block, same prop, one with cup, one without, same pitch number. Now that may disturb some people, but that is real world application back in the 1960's and is still around today. Is it a perfect example of the most efficent screw, no. A newer example would be Merc's 40, 50, 60 hp- aluminum p/n 48-42738A11 12 1/2 dia. X 8" pitch. Also available with (Extra Cup)-12 1/2 dia. X 8 pitch p/n 48-42738A13. Both the same pitch, blade area-difference in trailing edge cup. Different RPM, different speed, same pitch. As the Mercury Accessories Guide says for select props, "*Cupped Version Order CP1 in place of A45", A45 being uncuped models, otherwise same part number-different pitch load on the motor but stamped with the same pitch number. These are not completely different props arriving at the same pitch, they are the same prop, except for the last 1/4" of the trailing edge.
Oh gee, here we go again.

<br /><br />Backfire, if youre saying that a cupped prop and a non-cupped prop can have the same pitch, then youve decided to agree with me. You mustve finally realized that, in some boat applications, cupping a prop makes it more efficient and allows it to run closer to its actual pitch number (less slip).<br /><br />
Misrepresentation, can we allow this to stand?
In your examples of props with and without the cupping, the pitch is the
same. The pitch of the prop has not been misrepresented by cupping. One just runs more efficient than the other does (in some applications).<br /><br />And if you are saying that a cupped prop can have the same blade geometry as a non-cupped prop, with the exception of a small part of the trailing edge, then you're learning. Obviously the location and amount of that particular cupping did not have an effect on pitch. Efficiency perhaps. <br /><br />Unfortunately thats about where your mentality ends. There is more, but I fear it is over your head. I'll try. <br /><br />See, when double-cupping a prop, the cup can begin to intersect with the pitch line. When this happens it begins to have an effect on pitch angle. It depends on
where that cup was made, as the trailing edge is not just at the tip of the prop. It exists along the
entire blade. Cup can also intersect rake lines and will have an effect on rake. Cupping can also be altered in the area close to the hub, or anywhere along the blade. This is true especially for cleaver-style props. <br /><br />So is it that hard for you to understand that double-cupping has effects on the entire blade geometry, as it effects pitch angle and rake?<br /><br />Ill say it again...
There is a huge difference in a prop originally designed with large amounts of cupping (double cupping), and one that is later modified with double cupping. Cupping has effects throughout the entire geometry of the blade, and thus the blade must be designed for the effects of that cupping. You can't really do this when modifying a stock prop, as the rest of the blade can not be changed to accommodate the new cupping. In other words double cupping can be designed into a prop for maximum effect. Where by modifying a stock prop afterwards, you only get what you get.<br /><br />If you took a standard or cupped factory 15 pitch prop to the prop shop to have it modified by double cupping, you would unlikely be able to compensate for any effects on pitch angle and rake that the double cupping would cause (at least not without a total re-prop, which would change the geometry of the original prop entirely). <br /><br />Its likely the prop would not obtain its original pitch. And that was Perrys question, and my point. Ive explained this the best I can Backfire.<br /><br />
"Where by modifying a stock prop afterwards, you only get what you get." <br />Like-What the hell does that mean?
You have a small mind.

A prop includes many things other than cup (like skew, camber, rake, pitch angle, etc). And they all must work together for the prop to perform optimally. You cant change one without having an effect on the other. Very few prop shops have the capabilities to compensate for these factors when double-cupping. You simply take your original prop, and double-cup it. Nothing more. Pitch usually changes as a result. Again, the point.<br /><br />
Many of the better prop people can adjust, modify a good prop to greatly out perform anything out of the box from the factories. Say like more stern lift, more bow lift,more pitch, less pitch, more rpm, less rpm, better handling, better hole shot, better top speed, cavitation control
I dont think anyone has ever argued that props cant be modified to perform better under certain conditions.

The point was whether or not double-cup modifications effected original pitch. And in most cases it does.<br /><br />
-"get what you get"- I had to laugh at that, sorry.
I think youve backfired yet again Backfire.
