Gas Giant
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2010
- Messages
- 239
Engine is a '61 Evinrude Lark 3, Model Number 35524. (No generator)
Okay, as the title says I have no spark on either cylinder. I won't go into huge detail, (unless asked to) but here is the condensed version.
Work done:
-Replaced points and condensers, set points to 0.020"
-Replaced coils, adjusted coils as best I could using a straightedge per the manual I have.
-Replaced spark plug wires
-Replaced ALL engine wiring with new tin-coated copper conductor marine wire
-Replaced ALL the boat wiring with the same tin-coated conductor wire
-Replaced engine battery cables, and boat-side battery cables
How the tests were performed:
-Checked for spark using an automotive style adjustable spark tester. I don't remember what the gap was set at, but it wasn't very far
-Also checked for spark by grounding a spark plug to the block with the spark plug wire on the spark plug.
-Also checked for spark by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug wire end and holding it near the block
-Several attempts were made using the electric starter. Despite the new wiring, the starter did not want to turn the engine very well. Not sure why, it did turn it over nicely a few weeks ago. Since it turned the engine so slowly, I didn't bother with many tests using the electric starter. NOTE: I'll worry about the slow starter later, mainly worried about spark for now (Its probably the Ford starter solenoid....)
-Most attempts were made using the pull starter. I did this several times with the wiring harness still connected and the key set to run, and several times with the wiring harness disconnected.
-It should be noted that the engine crankshaft turns over freely with pulled with the pull starter. I mean it obviously has compression, but its not locked up or binding or anything.
The only thing left I can think of is the vacuum switch mentioned in the manual....I am not positive, but I think this is it:
The post in it is loose. I disconnected the wiring from it (except for one white wire that I cranked the nut down on too tight), thinking it may have been throwing off the tests, but it made no difference - no matter what I did, I never got spark.
So, at this point, I have no clue at all what the problem could be. Any advice is greatly appreciated; I'm really tired of pulling the flywheel off and reinstalling it (done it 3 times now) and I just want this thing to spark so I can move onto lower unit and carburetor frustrations
Okay, as the title says I have no spark on either cylinder. I won't go into huge detail, (unless asked to) but here is the condensed version.
Work done:
-Replaced points and condensers, set points to 0.020"
-Replaced coils, adjusted coils as best I could using a straightedge per the manual I have.
-Replaced spark plug wires
-Replaced ALL engine wiring with new tin-coated copper conductor marine wire
-Replaced ALL the boat wiring with the same tin-coated conductor wire
-Replaced engine battery cables, and boat-side battery cables
How the tests were performed:
-Checked for spark using an automotive style adjustable spark tester. I don't remember what the gap was set at, but it wasn't very far
-Also checked for spark by grounding a spark plug to the block with the spark plug wire on the spark plug.
-Also checked for spark by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug wire end and holding it near the block
-Several attempts were made using the electric starter. Despite the new wiring, the starter did not want to turn the engine very well. Not sure why, it did turn it over nicely a few weeks ago. Since it turned the engine so slowly, I didn't bother with many tests using the electric starter. NOTE: I'll worry about the slow starter later, mainly worried about spark for now (Its probably the Ford starter solenoid....)
-Most attempts were made using the pull starter. I did this several times with the wiring harness still connected and the key set to run, and several times with the wiring harness disconnected.
-It should be noted that the engine crankshaft turns over freely with pulled with the pull starter. I mean it obviously has compression, but its not locked up or binding or anything.
The only thing left I can think of is the vacuum switch mentioned in the manual....I am not positive, but I think this is it:
The post in it is loose. I disconnected the wiring from it (except for one white wire that I cranked the nut down on too tight), thinking it may have been throwing off the tests, but it made no difference - no matter what I did, I never got spark.
So, at this point, I have no clue at all what the problem could be. Any advice is greatly appreciated; I'm really tired of pulling the flywheel off and reinstalling it (done it 3 times now) and I just want this thing to spark so I can move onto lower unit and carburetor frustrations