Evinrude Lark iii

[Gibsonman2005]

Evinrude Lark iii. Anyone else have one? I'm thinking it's a 1961 or 62 two stroke. I have no clue if it runs but I pulled the plugs and it turns over clean. It's set up w/ wire harness, but for now I'm just pull starting it to turn over. I haven't even hooked it to a fuel supply yet as I haven't finished installing the deck of the boat yet.
Once I know it runs I'll build helm etc.
My questions: do these typically have alternator? What kind of "on the cheap" steering system you recommend?

 

[F_R]

A model number would be great. But if I have my Larks in order, a Lark III is a 1961, and a DC generator was available as an accessory. 1962 Larks were available in choice of manual shift or electric shift. Electric shift models had a DC generator as standard equipment. It is simple to tell if you have the generator--just take a look. It is belt driven and sits opposite the starter motor, on the other side.

Those motors were built for cable and pulley steering systems, and work very well with it, IF the system is installed correctly. If you use a push-pull cable system (Teleflex), it will "sort of" work. But not well and with compromise.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Finally got a model number. 35525. F_R....I tip my hat to you brother. Thanks.

 

[F_R]

35525 is indeed a 1961 Lark 40. And a DC belt-driven generator was available as an accessory, but not on the motor unless added. If you don't have one, don't fret too much about it unless charging the battery is a real inconvenience.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Much to my amazement it does have the DC generator! And the wiring harness is intact...albeit a bit sun-baked. Restoring the boat from the sticks and twigs of a boat I bought. Almost got the deck in, was thinking of a"doing a float test soon. If it passes then I'll try to fire up the motor and get to fixing it.
My plan:
1)Finish deck
2)float test
3)awaken the Lark
4)install steering and electrical.
5) paint

 

[F_R]

Have fun and enjoy your project.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

So, upon inspection...
Most notable: on underside there are 5 x 1 1/4" bolts where it looks like there should be 6 bolts. When I hold a flashlight up there the vacant hole has no threads and with a paperclip I can't feel any ribs either. Sorry phone was dead so no pics...
Any clues?
Also below the mentioned area, and just above the prop area, there is an "oil fill level" plug....it's dry as a bone in there...what oil should I put in there?

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Long story short I've got the bolt situation handled.

My question: Anyone have recommendations on oil for the gear case?

 

[F_R]

Any brand of 80-90 wt outboard motor gear oil. You pump it in the lower (drain) plug till it comes out the top (level) plug. Then while keeping the filler in the lower hole, replace the upper plug. Now remove the filler and quickly replace the lower plug.

 

[F_R]

BTW, the lower (drain) plug looks just like the upper level plug. DO NOT!!! remove the Phillips head screw. That is not the oil plug. The plug is on the bottom of the gearcase, just forward of the skeg.

 

[oldboat1]

F_R is one of your guys when you work on that motor, but I will jump in a minute or three with some non-technical stuff — had that motor, and often think I should have kept it. I think the ’61 might be a little more rare that other 40s from early to mid-‘60s, but not sure. Rarity could have bad implications if the ’61 had some design flaws affecting longevity, but rare is always better if you are into collecting. Cosmetically, I think it is one of the better looking ones for the period (script says ‘60s to me).

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueDeskInterface-Regular]I had the generator assembly, either on the ’61 or on a sister motor. I never got it to operate — broke some generator belts for some reason, so if you have one be careful with it (and maybe be on the lookout for another one or two belts). There will be a separate regulator, and will either be in an expanded transom box, or in a separate mount. (The starter solenoid also goes back there, as usual.) If you have the generator, I think you will also have an amp gauge in your harness. Go for it, if you want to run the generator, but probably adds some complications. Don’t operate the generator if you don’t have a regulator (take off the generator belt before running, if belt is in place).[/FONT]

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueDeskInterface-Regular]If there is a hot water choke in place and working, it’s really interesting — don’t know if they were problems, but remember that the choke came off at about the time the thermostat opened, flow volume from the leg really increased, and the sound of the motor dialed back to kind of a muffled rumble. You need to keep the t.stat operating right. There is no tell-tale on that motor — but no doubt about water if the system is working. If running in a barrel, it will exhaust water from the leg port all over your driveway — recommend testing it in a barrel rather than a flusher to check impeller, t.stat, and choke function. If not getting a big flow of water out of that port, by the way, could be the connector hose that routes water out the back.[/FONT]

That motor has a view plate on top of the flywheel that let’s you peek at the magneto components underneath. Look at both coils (turn the flywheel clockwise by hand 180 degrees to look at the second one). If the coil laminations are cracked, the coils need to be replaced — might anyway, but definitely due if you can see deterioration. If you remove the flywheel, as you likely will do, it has to be torqued back down really securely, something around 125 ft lbs. or whatever the book calls for. I sheared two keys before I got the torque right, and that was pretty dumb. Keep rpms in check when initially testing or retesting — should do that anyway.

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueDeskInterface-Regular]The motor takes a couple of dash plates, which might have come with the harness. One is for the ignition switch, and the other for the overheat light (as I recall). I have some NOS ‘60s plates that I picked up some time ago, and I’ll send a couple to you if needed for a period dash restoration, and if I have the right ones (PM me). I think that some have used the older single dash plate from the ‘50s and inserted the amp gauge in place of a medallion (don’t have one of those plates).[/FONT]

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueDeskInterface-Regular]Finally, I think your model is the long shaft (20&#148 and you will want to check the transom height on the boat you are restoring. You will need to scrounge up the shorter drive shaft if converting for a 15” transom. (Don’t drag a 20” shaft on a 15” transom — will not do justice to what that motor can do.)[/FONT]

[FONT=.HelveticaNeueDeskInterface-Regular]long post. good project.[/FONT]

 

[F_R]

Flywheel torque is 100-105 ft lbs, but absolutely correct on the importance. If not done correctly, it can destroy the flywheel and crankshaft.

 

[oldboat1]

good -- Thanks. Miss the old '61 I had, and hope it's still running somewhere.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

You guys are awesome. Yea that Phillips screw is actually called a retaining screw (methinks) at least that's what it's funtion is. I've had the whole LU apart and back together last week...love the smell of gear oil.

New question: does the gear oil keep? My dad has a bunch from the late 80's or early 90's. The local hardware store has its current supply from 2002. Does the gear oil degrade with time?

 

[Gibsonman2005]

More specifically, does gear oil have a shelf life?

 

[Gibsonman2005]

I've got the exterior box for the regulator, but it's missing the other half that should have the starter solenoid and the other side of the wiring harness...I inherited this way. Just a big rusted mess.
Does the only way to get the generator belt off involve removing the Flywheel?

 

[oldboat1]

well, sounds like the major half of the harness is missing. You can make one when you get to that. It's been a while, but the generator belt probably slips off its spot the flywheel from the top -- held in place by tension. Eyeball it first -- don't force it. Would spray it with some WD-40 first.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Got a better question:
If I do get to statring up, can I bypass a solenoid purchase? All I have is a regulator for the gen... So I'm thinking, for a test run Ina bucket in the driveway, how should I wire electricity using a battery, a cut off switch, maybe a key ign, and run the regulator so I don't damage anything yet skip removing the flywheel...

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Did a test late last night...it cranks but won't turnover...I think I need to address the harness and make sure I've got my connections right. Gonna go buy a solenoid today too and hook it up.
Good news: regulator belt not broken...yet
I may have to wait until next weekend to check for spark and make sure fuel lines are flowing. I don't have a comp tester but I'll see about prices or possibly renting one.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

No Title

This is from befor i shoved it in a bucket of water and tried to start it.