Evinrude Lark iii

[Gibsonman2005]

So I finally looked at the coils through the window oldboat1 talked about and they look brand friggn new in there. ??? Not only that but the fasteners and hardware look new too. ??? I kinda tried to check the gaps and reaching through the window I gapped at .020 or maybe a bit more on the smallest gap of all points. I also removed the generator belt. I'm really not looking forward to removing the flywheel so I'm procrastinating in a roundabout way I suppose. Anyway, after new plugs and solenoid and ignition switch (B terminal broke off of old one not even orig) the motor cranks maybe once or thrice and nothing. Gonna do comp test and spark test tonight. After that I guess it's carb time if comp and spark are good. Any other suggestions as to why it cranks and cranks? Grounds are good. Connections clean.

 

[Johnson110]

I just got one of these engines, take spark plug out and heat it up put it back and try to start, worked for me!

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Can you elaborate on how you heated your spark plug up?

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Looks like my other post didn't go thru...comp in both cyl is 60. Got spark....waiting for nightfall to see spark better in the tester. But...60 is a sad #.

 

[Willyclay]

But...60 is a sad #.

If you checked the compression by using the electric starter, then it seems low. However, if you checked compression with the manual recoil starter, your motor has compression relief valves to make it easier to start manually so 60lbs. is okay. The prop in your picture appears to be LH rotation which is very rare. Good luck!

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Checked comp with starter motor + key ign. Took me a bit to figure out the wiring w/out manual and only intuition + iboats forums.
Got spark. It's an orange-ish spark in the tester window.
So I'm looking for a compression fix and perhaps a new battery...although I've had my current battery on a charger/starter unit through the the process.. Rates at 14+ when conn and drops to 10v to 8.9ish when cranking

 

[Willyclay]

Is your spark tester an automotive-style neon tube thingie or a true spark gap tester? Makes a difference. Also, the apparent battery problem may be giving you low compression figures if the starter does not spin fast enough. Makes sure all electrical connections are clean, bright and free of corrosion. FYI, the compression relief valves were slightly open on my 1959 Johnson 35HP motor due to mis-adjustment by a PO. Make sure yours are fully closed and seated for the comp test. Good luck!

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Good point....my spark tester is the "tube thingy" not a true spark gap tester...the auto shop has a pretty sorry assortment of tools...

 

[Willyclay]

You can make your own gap tester. I'll look for that thread and post it later if I can find it. Nothing fancy, just a couple of screws for adjusting the gap size mounted to a board. Meanwhile, here's a link to a thread in the FAQ's with the recommended compression testing procedures. Good luck!

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...ion-test-by-jb

Here's a picture of a commercially available gap tester from Auto-Zone that was $6.00 in 2008.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6940528

 

[Gibsonman2005]

Well I took the carb off and jets were clogged. Cleaned it up nice and reinstalled. I was going to take the head gasket off so I loosened the bolts I had access to, then began to access the bolt behind the valve follower and lever. The head of that broke off... Yay.
I'm about ready to send this motor to hell and look for a different one of similar HP.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

I'm certain I had adequate spark...there is just no getting around poor compression (in my mind) and now that the head is stuck on there I'm really doubting this motor has a future. If Anyone in CA has a 25-40hp outboard for sale, I am looking...

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, major frustration. sounds like it might have had some salt water use, though not necessarily. You might use some blaster on all the bolts and let them set. If you can get a vise grips on part of the broken bolt, might be able to get it out yet, and maybe with heat.

A replacement cylinder head can be found, if it comes to that. Can help with a couple of 35s [motors], but would have to come to NY to get them. Makes them a tad expensive.

 

[Willyclay]

The problem with going after another motor of that same era is that it may be worse than what you have now. If you feel up to it, I believe you could carefully grind off the head of the broken bolt and remove the head, thereby exposing enough shank of the bolt to get Visegrips on. Good luck!

 

[oldboat1]

hey -- not mine, Willyclay:joyous:. Point taken, but I'm a strong believer in donor motors -- two or three motors or partials, sometimes, to get one good runner. That sort of thing. Need a big garage.

 

[Willyclay]

No argument from me. My Admiral says I would not know how to act with a really new (not new-to-me) boat or motor! Fortunately, we have a big garage.

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, similar discussions here. Big garage, reasonably tolerant admiral. all good.

 

[oldboat1]

gibsonman -- walk away from it. then come back and get the head off. When all is well, and it's back together, get the solenoid wired right, good connections, spinning good -- recheck compression (was equal, if a little low on the face of it). Think it's got a chance.:courage:

 

[Gibsonman2005]

The broken bolt is snapped about 3/32" below the surface of the head. You guys crack me up...would love to sit n drink a beer some life...
I'm just gonna cry uncle and look for a different...anything that runs.

I've almost finished the dirty work of restoring my 1959 dorsett Catalina. All that is left (haha) is building the helm and installing cabin door, install the steering, and paint inside and out, reinstall ext hardware and lights... That's all...oh and a outboard. I need one of those.

 

[Gibsonman2005]

I may part the thing out... Or save them for my next headache. The starter motor works like a champ... Generator and belt are good... Carb is totally clean and beautiful...

 

[oldboat1]

not sure if you mean the bolt shaft is busted in the head or in the powerhead. If in the head, it's a matter of getting the other head bolts out, and sliding the head over the broken shaft. Otherwise, you get the head off and drill the broken bolt out or use a bunch of lube and some heat and a removal tool.

would work on the boat. Soak all those bolts and let the motor set. (The '61 Lark is fairly rare, and worth restoring if you can do it.)