Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

[jimeee]

Trying to find out some things about this engine. My neighbors future father in law gave this motor and boat to him. <br /><br />It is an Evinrude Lark IV Model # 35530L or 355301 serial number 06649. I take it from my searches that is is a 1962 40HP. Is this correct? Is a manual still available for this motor and if one might be where would be the cheapest and best place to get one??? <br /><br />Supposedly the motor was all rebuilt and hardly ran at all and then put away. Must have been run until the fuel was out of it. Took the carb apart and it is clean as a whistle inside. Put it in a barrel of water and put mixed gas 32:1 to it. Checked and cleaned plugs and checked to see if they were sparking when holding the threads against ground and they are sparking. Turned it over by hand with the plugs out to make sure nothing was binding up. Put the plugs back in and turned it over with the starter and couldn't ever get it to start. It sounded like it made one feeble attempt to fire but I wouldn't swear to that. Tried this same thing over and over several times before finally giving up. Took the plugs out and didn't look like they were getting any fuel yet there is fuel in the carburetor. Even put a little fuel directly in the cylinders and it still wouldn't fire. I suggested that he buy some new spark plugs since it seems like I remember from years ago running snow machines that 2 cycle plugs were real touchy. <br /><br />Anybody have any suggestions for this poor old guy trying to help the neighbor kid get his outboard motor started??? Thanks for any suggestions...<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[JB]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Yup. That is a 1962 40HP, Jim.<br /><br />First, he needs a Service Manual. I suggest kencook.com. Don't try to work on it without a manual.<br /><br />Next, go to Engine FAQs and do the "Outboard wont start" troubleshooting.<br /><br />Good luck, and let us know what you find.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

A piece of advice about that carb, the initial settings are to have the high speed mixture control screwed in all the way, then back out 3/4 of a turn. For the low speed, in until it gently seats, then out 1 and 1/2 turn. Then put the knobs on and crank it.<br /><br />Make sure your spark can jump a wide gap. 1/4" - 3/8" with the plugs out. Just want to make sure they did the coils.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

More questions. <br /><br />What gap are the points set at? And where is the throttle set while setting the points since I see that the throttle setting moves the timing???<br /><br />Can this motor be ran without have the electrics plugged in to the boat controls and having the switch on? I know we are getting spark ok but I guess I am wondering if there is some kind of electric gas shutoff as it doesn't seem like any gas is getting into the cylinders. <br /><br />The reason I am asking these questions is I am totally dumb about outboard motors, not about engines in general just about outboard motors.<br /><br />The kid don't have the money to spend on a manual so we are hoping we can get the motor running without having to buy a manual.<br /><br />Thanks for your help guys.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

The points should be set at .020". <br /><br />The engine can be run with no battery or controls, and there is no gas shutoff. You should leave the boat's shift and throttle controls connected, however.<br /><br />If you're near a library, try there for a manual which covers your outboard. The SELOC manual is the one they usually have. It's OK, but not great.<br /><br />If you have spark and compression (check this with a compression tester), all that's left is fuel.<br /><br />You should start with fresh fuel, mixed at 24:1 (1 quart per six gallons of gas). Pump the fuel bulb until it gets firm. New plugs are an excellent idea. Champion J4C is the correct plug. J6C will also work, especially if you're using the motor for lots of trolling. Gap is .030"<br /><br />The engine MUST be in water. Get a big trash can and put it under the engine with the engine on the boat. Fill it with water so the water is about three or four inches above the horizontal plate above the prop.<br /><br />Put the engine in neutral and set the throttle lever on the boat's controls straight up (it shouldn't be able to go any further than that).<br /><br />Pull out the choke knob and crank the engine. If it's going to start, it will start. These engines are really reliable starters, as long as they have spark, compression, and fuel.<br /><br />If it still doesn't start, fill a spray bottle with the fuel and oil mixture, open the choke, and spray some in the carburetor throat. Close the choke again and try again.<br /><br />The first time I started mine, it ran lousy for a while, then cleaned up and ran OK. One note: These engines are so quiet at idle, you might not know that it started and keep running the starter. <br /><br />Once it runs, watch for water to come out of the hole on the rear of the midsection. If none appears after a minute, shut down. <br /><br />Before putting this outboard into service, you're going to want to change the water pump impeller. There are instructions here on the forum for doing that.<br /><br />But...do try to get the manual. It's really important and can save you lots and lots of time and prevent errors that can prove costly.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

CATransplant: Thanks very much for all of the instructions.<br /><br />We only had a .019 feeler gauge so that is what the points are set at.<br /><br />We are trying to run it in a 55 gallon drum with water in it. The boat is not handy to where be have battery power for running the starter. Is it alright to run it it the 55 gallon drum with water in it and not on the back of the boat with a drum of water under it as you suggested?<br /><br /><br />We will check the library for a manual.<br /><br />I haven't checked the compression with a gauge but it has compression enough in both cylinders that is very hard to pull over by hand and the the starter can hardly turn it over. Once it starts rotating with the starter it turns okay. I will check the compression gauge. What would be normal compression readings for this engine?<br /><br />We mixed fresh fuel at 32:1 but will mix some more at 24:1. We will get new Champion J4C plugs sometime today and gap them at .030<br /><br />I am thinking that for some reason or rather we are not getting adeguate spark even though it shows spark when cranking over hold the spark plug threads against metal on the motor. The reason is I would think it would try to fire when we put a little fuel in the cylinders. We will try to spray some fuel in the barrel of the carb as you suggested after putting in new plugs.<br /><br />JB I need to add that I printed out the instructions at engine FAQs of "Outboard Won't Start." And we will be checking all of that stuff over today too. Thanks for all of those tips.<br /><br />Thanks so much CATransplant and others who have tried to help us get this engine started...<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

If CATransplant doesn't mind me jumping in on those questions:<br /><br />Compression should most importantly be even. No more than a 10% varience. I normally get around 90psi-110psi on these engines, but different testers will show different numbers. There are no published specs other than the 10% variance. If it's got compression relief (for the pull-start) make sure it's not engaged.<br /><br />OMC recommended correct fuel mix is 24:1. They changed to 50:1 in '64. But there's apparently no internal changes on your '62. So 32:1 isn't going to harm it.<br /><br />It's fine to run in a 55 gallon drum detached from the boat. The important thing is to have the water level up over the joint between the lower unit and the mid-section. That submerges the water pump, ensuring that it will prime properly.<br /><br />Check the wide gap spark test. There's a few common failings where you can get the arc to jump the plug gap no problem, but it will not jump much further. The wide gap simulates arcing under compression, which is far more difficult than sparking at atmospheric pressure. If you need ideas for a jig, just ask.<br /><br />Hope this helps!

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Thanks for jumping in Paul. Thanks for the compression figures. Okay on our fuel mix for now. We have the water high enough in the 55 gallon drum so okay on that.<br /><br />In my mind I am back to the spark thought and thinking just as you suggested that maybe it is inadeguate under compression. We will test the wide gap spark at 1/4" to 3/8" as you suggested previously.<br /><br />This engine has set for many years since it was put away and I am wondering if maybe the coils and or the condensors might end up being the root of the suspected spark problem? But of course doing the wide gap spark test should tell if those items are a problem...<br /><br />Have to wait for neighbor kid to get out of bed before trying all of everybodies suggestions. He is a night worker so he doesn't get up very early...haha...<br /><br />Thanks again everybody for all of the help as everybit of it is much appreciated.<br /><br />Jim<br />===

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

<br />The chief culprit is the ignition coils, but sometimes it's plug wire with cracked insulation. Either way, you can check them just by looking at them. The ignition coils had a habit of cracking with age and arcing over. Fortunately, since they were so common cheap and superior ignition coils are available. They run around $15 each so if they're bad it's not the end of the world.<br /><br />Haven't seen a failed condensor yet with this ignition system. They're pretty reliable.<br /><br />PS - you say you gapped the points? It's critical to torque the flywheel nut to 105 ft/lbs if you removed it. How did the coils look? Are they the new style black plastic or green/grey plastic ones?

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Not a problem for me, Paul. A lot of those had an inspection port in the flywheel, which lets you set the points without pulling it. I know they discontinued that at some point, but his may have the port.<br /><br />If this thing has been sitting for several years, it might just take a little bit to get it going again. If the spark's good, though, and the compression's OK, they should at least get a short run from the spray.<br /><br />Still, there's no telling and it could have a bad key or something for sure. I do wonder if they're trying to start this with the rope. That's going to be a tough nut with a balky engine. A battery to jump the starter directly would be a good idea.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Thats funny having worked around electronics I would have suspected the condensers might be the culprit first as age and non use do them in lots of times... But I will take your word for which might be the culprit.<br /><br />The coils were definitely not black but don't remember what color they were but I do remember they seemed some odd two colors... No we did not torque the flywheel down but did cinch it down pretty tight and then put the hammer to the ratchet handle. That is a pretty big bolt sticking up for the flywheel and I have a pretty good feel for tightening up things. However I am a firm believer in using a torque wrench on everything I do on my Toyota Supra Turbo car and anything else I work on. So we will take the flywheel off again, now that we have a torque number to torque that nut down to. I will reset the points again and make darn sure they are clean. One of sets of points did have some kind of goop on it when we looked at them. The reason we took the flywheel off in the first place was because the lower plug wasn't firing. Then I found the dark colored goop between the points. After I cleaned that set of points the plug seemed to fire okay. Also cleaned the other set of points while we had the flywheel off. <br /><br />Thanks again Paul for each and every one of your tips as they are all very much appreciated. And thanks to anyone else who chimes in here.<br /><br />The wife and I are going for our morning exercise walk and will be back in a little while and by then maybe the neighbor kid will be up...haha...<br /><br />Jim <br />(73 years young and still burning up the road, in my hot rod 600RWHP'd Toyota Supra that is...haha...)

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Torque that flywheel nut to exactly 105 ft-lbs before trying to start the engine. If you don't, it's likely to shear off the woodruff key that positions it on the crankshaft. Properly torqued, it will stand up to anything. Not enough, and it'll shear off that woodruff key for sure. The hammer trick won't work.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

No trouble at all. Looks like CATransplant is back to help you though! <br /><br />CATransplant, I'm not quite sure when those inspection ports disappeared, but I think it was in the very early 60s. Some defective flywheels would start cracking around the inspection port, so they did away with them altogether. I suppose the bad ones have all cracked long ago though, as we never seem to see them here.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Too bad, really. It is nice to be able to look at, clean, or adjust points without pulling the flywheel. I guess I have one of the good flywheels, then. No cracks around my inspection port.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

We are using the electric starter to try to get this outboard engine started...haha... I wouldn't try to start this engine with the pull rope. I would hate to even have to start it by hand if it was starting like it should...haha... Let me tell you this engine has super compression... It has almost as much compression as my old single cylinder 30.50 cu in Velocette motorcycle had which had so much compression one could hardly push it through the compression stroke. If it hadn't of had a compression release one would never have got that old beast started. That was way way back, clear back to about 1950...haha...<br /><br />Let me assure you that we will pull the flywheel off and torque that flywheel nut down to 105 ft-lbs and of course while we have the flywheel off we will double check the points and generally look things over in that area.<br /><br />I see the kid is still in bed...haha. I need a little rest and a cooling off period after the brisk walk anyway. Might even need a short nap too...haha...<br /><br />I will let you all know how things go today. That is if it doesn't rain too much as we are working outside in the open...haha... Never know if if it is going to rain or shine here in green Southwest Washington... (green from moss and other unknown green growing stuff that is from all of the moisture and lack of sunshine...haha...) Green stuff even wants to grow on the North side of our home and it even creeps around near to the south side as it can stand.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Hey, I had a 500cc Velocette, a 1959 TT trials model. You're right about the compression. It was quite an interesting motorcycle to start. If you didn't follow the routine exactly so...no starting for you.<br /><br />Good luck with your Lark! I'm betting you get it fired up the next time you try.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Update. We put new plugs in this motor and finally got it to fire. First we squirted fuel in the cylinders and I was ready to squirt fuel into the carburetor throat which I did but we couldn't keep it running. Still does not seem to be getting fuel to the cylinders.<br /><br />The kids are going to take the carb off and even though it seemed spotlessly clean I will see if I can clean any jets I find and anything else that looks cleanable with carb cleaner and some air.<br /><br />Doing the wide gap spark test couldn't get the spark to jump even 3/16"... Neighbor guy works on outboards on the side a little and has one he just put new coils in and the outboard we are working on had a better spark than that one did. Oh by the way the coils are black and some other color.<br /><br />Even after all of this I personally still don't feel like it is getting enough spark. But what do I know... And it doesn't seem to be getting fuel in the cylinders even though it is in the carb...<br /><br />I forgot to put the compression gauge on it. Shoot... Maybe tomorrow...<br /><br />Will keep you all posted on this continuing saga...haha...

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

CAT: did you ever get kicked over the handlebars? I have. My Velocette was a special built bike. It was originally a 21cu in that a special barrel and piston cast for it to increase the displacement from 21 cu in to 30.5 cu in. That is quite a change for one cylinder...haha.. I have ridden a lot of motorcycles in my day and some real fast ones too and I don't think I have ever owned or ridden anything that put out more raw torque than that particular Velocette. It had so much torque that one could do a WOT in any gear and the bike would come right up and over if one left it at WOT...haha... And I agree about starting those things. If you didn't get it just right and if it didn't start by the second kick you just as well quit... Talk about cantankerous! I owned three different Velocettes but got tired of them and switched to dependable Hondas and have never looked back since...

 

[CATransplant]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Ha! Yes, I did get tossed once by the Velocette. Mine was a 30.5 c.i. from the beginning. Since it was setup for trials, lifting the front wheel was really, really easy. <br /><br />It was a tricky bike to start and a tricky bike to ride. For those who aren't familiar with 1950's Brit bikes...the Velocette had the shifter and brake on the opposite sides of what we're all used to. Lots of 50's Brit bikes were that way, and it took a little getting used to.<br /><br />I wish I still had that old Velo.

 

[jimeee]

Re: Evinrude Lark IV 35530 (L or 1) Questions.

Ain't that something. My memory is so bad that I don't even remember the shifter being on the opposite side...haha...<br /><br />I wish I had the last one that I had. It was a 30.50 too. My first one, the one that was converted to a 30.50 was a push rod. The last one I had was all tricked out with a small tank and other things that made it look really good. It would look good even in this day and age. Heck I wish I could even find a picture of it...<br /><br />CAT you must be almost as old as I am if you were riding Velocettes...haha... <br /><br />BACK TO THE EVINRUDE<br /><br />I took the Evinrude carb all apart and sprayed carb cleaner into every orfice I could find and then blew threw everything. But that carb was so clean that I am guessing what I did won't make any difference. The kids will be putting the carb back on and in a little bit we wil try to run it again.<br /><br />I will let you all know if it runs.