fiberglass relic restoration

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

getting close to layup time. looking for plywood. found 3/4 marine for 75$...3/4 subfloor for 24$. having troubl with the thinner stock i need. got a 3/8 product the guy called marinetek, ab fir, for 32$. cant find 3/8 marine. anyone familiar with this pruduct?
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

The original stringers were only 3/4 wide.

I thought i would laminate 3/8 to fab stringers. that yields a greater lap...4 feet, which should be stronger than a 6" lap using 3/4. 2x 3/4 is just too wide for this little boat.

The deck was 1/4 in aft 2/3 of boat and 3/4 in Front third (4 inch step) so I also plan to use it for the deck in aft section. I'd rather use 1/4 for deck because of weight distribution, but i can't find 1/4 acx. closest i came was the 3/8 "marinetech" ab fir. The additional weight will make it aft heavy (not by much...10lbs tops),

I fish flats, never go into the gulf, rarely see 2' waves. usually out on a light chop or at night on black glass. i'd like to make it bulletproof but honestly i just want to milk ten years out of it.

while i'm being honest, i calculated the fabric and resin needed and have decided to use 1 1/2 oz csm for nearly all of the lam and layup. there was no biax in it. think it was made before it existed.
I plan to use 1708 only to re-tab and recover the transom, twice. 1st time lapping the port side, second time lapping the starboard, both layers over the new tabbing...bulletproof :D

Considering the original stringers were finger-jointed 3/4 stock (like cheap paint grade baseboard) and tabbed in with csm, i believe 3/8 stock laminated togther with 1 1/2 oz csm will exceed the strength of the originals. after the stringers are tabbed in, i plan to coat the inside of the hull (below the floorline) with resin and add a new layer of csm, going over the stringer tabbing. this will actually be double-tabbing the stringers, sealing and strengthening the hull. the deck will also get tabbed in twice, 4in then 8in over top...all with 1 1/2 csm.
Of course this is only my plan :eek: objections will be strongly considered :redface:. My approach will keep my budget within reason...125$ in mat, 125$ in resin, 80$ plywood, plus the cabosil, the finish coat on the new floor, a lower unit oil change, couple of ss heli-coils, new float switch for bilge pump, bunk boards for trailer, etc.
aint the way i want to go but i cant put 1000$ into an 800$ boat. now you know the plan, hope to hear i'm not wasting time money and effort. i'f i must, i'll 1708 the deck, over a layer of 1 1/2 oz csm. adds another 56$. planned on $300...turned into $500. maybe i shoulda parted it out :facepalm:
 

mrsmith35sg

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 7, 2009
Messages
86
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

I dont wanna threadjack but WoodonGlass how do those first drawings you posted differ when using epoxy?
 

Cadwelder

Lieutenant Commander
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Aug 30, 2010
Messages
1,780
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

On your stringers, the splicing of 3/4" stock is very common and much easier than laminating 3/8" stock. Just cut a 45? angle at the joint of the two pieces of 3/4" and glue a scab piece of 3/4 to it at the joint. It'll be there forever.

Note: ( I always add a few SS screws to the joint also)
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

CW ^^^ is absolutely SPOT ON. This is totally acceptable and if you use Gorilla Glue and Screws It will be as strong as one solid piece.

mrsmith35sg, for epoxy you DON't need CSM. Only Cloth is required. Not 1708 but 17 oz cloth. However, Unless your are allergic to poly or have other outstanding reasons for using epoxy I see not overarching reason for using it when repairing fiberglass boats since they are made from polyester resin.
 

mrsmith35sg

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 7, 2009
Messages
86
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

Thanks.

I have a similar restore (deck, prob stringers & Transom) and have been reading following people like frisco boater forever. Didn't know if going with epoxy and having to use less materials would be worth it opposed to lots of poly and varying mat/cloth/biax for someone with minimal glass experience
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

In the Long run, I really think Poly is the best way to go for repairing Fiberglass boats. Not to say you CAN'T use epoxy but I just can't see the extra cost. Some people are allergic and HAVE to use it but if not then I think Poly is the way to go. Almost ALL the PROS use Poly. In special circumstances where extra Strength is required then Epoxy IS the preferred product
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

rain, rain, rain...i've been doin this in the backyard. i can do the woodwork in the garage but the boat would never fit. how long after application of poly resin before it can get wet. i have a cover for the boat but a little water always finds its way through. also, what effect does humidity have on set time, curing?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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25,929
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

This will give you some helpful info...

"Polyester resin cures by an exothermic reaction created by promoters (cobalt & amine) and activator Methyl Ethel Ketone Peroxide (MEKP). The reaction of polyester will occur at the thickest cross section sending out a wave of heat, which cures resin to a solid glass-like hardness. Temperature and moisture content can affect the rate of cure and the drying of part?s surface. The resin?s reaction starts with the addition of MEKP at 0.5% to 1.5 % (2 % for thin laminates). The ratio is dependant on air temperature, resin thickness, temperature of resin and mold. Fillers are added to help control peak exotherm, shrinkage, and cure rate. Unfilled resin can heat up to 300F resulting in cracking. Resins that create uncontrolled peak exotherm can exhibit wrinkles or alligator skin. Using lower levels of MEKP, preheating the mold surface or both, can change this. In wet weather conditions, tacky surfaces may be exhibited by resin due to high humidity. Working in a controlled, dry-heated area should help resin to cure properly."
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

stringers and bulkhead pieces have been fabricated. ready to prime. deck pieces rough cut and drying in the ac. made room in garage for resin work. 10 gal of resin, 25 yds of glass, buckets, brushes, rollers, etc. ready to go. :D shame i have to go to work all week. :facepalm: found the damn camera wire! pics have been taken. post them soon. c'ya,
 

Scott Chinsota

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Re: fiberglass relic restoration

resin kicking too fast. 90 degree weather...how do i get more working time?

this was the primer coat. think it kicked so fast because of absorption.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

tempted to try putting resin in the refridgerator. not comfortable reducing ratio.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

much better luck. the primer batch set up way too fast. think i messed up the ratio when i broke it down for pints, cups. i made up a recipe sheet to avoid wasting any more resin.
started layup on stringers yesterday and had plenty of working time. came home 10 hours later and it was fully set. was a little concerned because i reduced the kicker by rounding down to the next whole milliliter. could have counted drops per oz but i have a 1 cc (10 ml) syringe that does the trick. anyway, that's whats up. slow goin, but its goin.
 

Scott Chinsota

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now with pics!

now with pics!

2011_0804firstround0011.jpg2011_0804firstround0010.jpg2011_0804firstround0005.jpg here are a few pics of "the relic". check out the fancy lean-to i rigged up for shade. :D looks like fun, huh? 95 in the shade. shoulda done this during dry season when its only 70 degrees.
 

Cadwelder

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Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: now with pics!

Re: now with pics!

previous owner rigged it for $10 clamp light to spot bait at night is my guess. i thought it was funny too. it just runs to the accy battery. i'll be doing something different...eventually.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

went out and bought drain tubes today. they sold a tool for $50. i went to lowes and bought the parts to make one...not $50. a few days ago i thought i'd check the steering...wouldn't budge. removed the entire assembly, took it to the garage, chucked it into the drill, clamped the drill in a vise, grabbed a quart of 89/90 rear end fluid and ran it through on low speed until nearly clean fluid came out the other end. next step was molygrease, another few minutes til just grease came out the other end...about a shot glass full. should be good for years. weather permitting, i will re-do the transom fillet re-tab, put 2 layers on transom and change out the drain tube tomorrow morning. the port and starboard stringers and bilge box after, if i'm lucky. maybe even the keel stringer.
then i can trim the deck pieces to fit. the anticipation is killing me. more pic's soon
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

eventually i have to put the livewell and baitwell back in. any suggustions or tricks to bake it easier would be greatly appreciated. cutting them out sure sucked. doesnt look like it will be the easiest part of the layup work. seat stands/battery wells wont be either. they were all glassed in to the deck.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: fiberglass relic restoration

got the port and starboard stringers installed. pb started kicking as i was working the last 2 feet of fillet on each one. had to grind a little to clean it up. fabricating a frame for the bilge. it's about a
1' x 1' square. the keel stringer ties to it. slow going, but it's going. pouring rain today :( . need the rest anyway. have to go to work two hours early all week to cover for someone on vacation...wont get much more done til this weekend. more pics soon.
 
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