First rebuild - '89 Campion Allante 185 - Stringers, Deck, Transom

[Chris51280]

So here is my thought. Steve put it back the way it was.
Is it how it would be build today? Probably not.
Is the bottom bolt on a good solution? Probably not.
Will it break apart because it is only supported at the ends? Probably not.
It worked before so I think it will work again. If you can change it with the neoprene strips then please do so. The tank has beveled sides that help with rigidity of the bottom. I see that you don't have much room on top of the tank to mount to the side of the stringers.
Like I said, when in doubt, put it back as it was. can't be wrong since it worked before and was approved back then by the coast guard. Make sure the flange will stay dry and seal the screw holes with PL or 4200 or 5200 and don't drill through.
That's why we come here and question everything and get 10 different opinions. Its up to common sense and the builder to decide what to do. There are 10 correct answers and then there are 10 wrong answers. And even that is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks Chris. I appreciate your input as well and I have to agree with the thought process of putting it back the way it was. But I totally get Kevin's argument too that it isn't the best or as things are done today, but trust me that I'm not "f-ing" anyone because I don't even know enough to do that. I'm afraid if I tried to re-engineer how the tank was done I would probably do more harm than good. This is the first boat I've ever rebuilt so I thought this was the way all boats were done. But I can sure buy some of the neoprene strips and maybe add them between the board and the tank. And maybe I'll get some of those 1" thick ones and add them to the sides and under the beveled parts. Probably can't hurt. And I'll be sure to put 5200 on the screws. I can say even with all the wood that was rotted under the deck, I needed a screwdriver to remove all 6 screws used to attach the tank to that original board. Thanks again everyone.

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Just keep swimming. That's all I got, man... Just keep swimming.

Forward progress is what it's all about. You are leaving it in a better state than you found it in. Consider your options, choose what you feel is best, and don't quit till you're done.

Do that and you'll be happy with the end result. If not, you live and you learn - do it differently 'next time'.

You got this.

 

[kcassells]

my boat was built in 86' and had neo. Uhmm maybe you missed something during demo. IDK. Hey Hos, the waters over there...go drink some.
Just the friction of the glass and tank is a disaster then add any pc. of oddness to the equation between the two components like a pebble, wood chip, dropped screw, glass pimple or chard.
It's over Johnny...ova. Not to be a Richard but you haven't really done any research at all regarding tank install. Nor have the other 2 commenters.
Some of this stuff is NOT a hobby it's life, safety, code compliance.
It's a freakin GAS TANK.

 

[kcassells]

Oh and yea then their is this Hos;
Don't waste your money buying boat insurance. you won't be covered if their is an incident.

Go to page 59...……………..
http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf

USCG Compliance Guide
American Boat & Yacht Council U.S. Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety Division 183.550

(A) EACH FUEL TANK SUPPORT, CHOCK, OR STRAP THAT IS NOT INTERGRAL WITH A METALLIC FUEL TANK MUST BE INSULATED FROM THE TANK SURFACE BY A NON-MOISTURE ABSORBING MATERIAL.​

Unless a metallic fuel tanks has built-in means for supporting and holding the fuel tank in place, a non-moisture absorbing material must be between the fuel tank surface and the support, chock, or strap. The non-moisture absorbing quality of the material is necessary to prevent localized corrosion of the fuel tank that might occur if moisture was trapped at the support-tank interface for a prolong period of time.​

The following table lists some material that appear to be suitable and some that should be avoided. Care should be taken to avoid abrasive combination of materials even though it is not a mandated requirement.​

Basically, this requirement provides for the isolation of the metallic fuel tank from potentially moisture ladden support system and also from abrasion by the supports, chock, or strap.​

FUEL TANK ISOLATION MATERIALS​

SUITABLE​	UNSUITABLE​
Neoprene​	Foams​
Teflon​	Carpeting​
High Density Plastics ​	Cardboard​
	Felt​
	Wood​
	Canvas​

 

[kcassells]

Install and glass some wood, say 1/2" where the tank brackets were sitting. order some 1/2" nep to place under.
Done and done right.
Neo can be bought in practically any thickness.
https://www.discountrubberdirect.co...m_term=+neoprene +sheets&utm_content=Neoprene

 

[steve_h7]

Install and glass some wood, say 1/2" where the tank brackets were sitting. order some 1/2" nep to place under.
Done and done right.
Neo can be bought in practically any thickness.
https://www.discountrubberdirect.com...ntent=Neoprene

This is a lot more helpful, thanks.
I'm positive there was nothing between the tank and the original board unless it disintegrated like all the wood in the boat. I went back and looked at pictures again during the demo, so just for the record I'll attach them. Maybe it'll be helpful in the future if you come across another one built similarly because I'm sure there must be more. But I can do like you suggest and add some 1/2" spacers where the tabs are to lift the tank off the board and add the neoprene strips. Thanks again.

 

[steve_h7]

my boat was built in 86' and had neo. Uhmm maybe you missed something during demo. IDK. Hey Hos, the waters over there...go drink some.
Just the friction of the glass and tank is a disaster then add any pc. of oddness to the equation between the two components like a pebble, wood chip, dropped screw, glass pimple or chard.
It's over Johnny...ova. Not to be a Richard but you haven't really done any research at all regarding tank install. Nor have the other 2 commenters.
Some of this stuff is NOT a hobby it's life, safety, code compliance.
It's a freakin GAS TANK.

I tried to be nice but your propensity for drama is amazing. The snarky comments on your thread are about all I can stand. If you want to trash the original builder here's their information:
Campion Marine
200 Campion Street
Kelowna, British Columbia,
Canada V1X 7S8
Phone: 250.765.7795
Fax: 250.765.8883
I've read most encourage the boat be put back the way they found it. Trash me and everyone else if you'd like for following that advise. I've said before that I appreciated what you've added information wise to my thread but if all you have to contribute is sarcasm feel free to skip it. Thanks.

 

[kcassells]

WOW....4 Syllable words.
Everything you need to know is here or on the net. TO do it right. Why do you think no-one else is responding to your
questions? Cause it's all about research and due diligence. Not blaming someone else who did not give you the answer.
Ya want snarky...……..funny. Ya want a safe boat...funny.
YOUR BOAT...………….DO WHAT YOU WANT.

 

[steve_h7]

You know what, you win.
I thought this forum could be helpful but between you trashing other members here that suggest things on my thread and now the way I talk, you can keep iBoats all to yourself. I'd rather just guess at what to do rather than ask here. And that's nonsense about not doing DD. I've watched hours of videos and searched for days on here and other forums for options to a problem and I come here to get a final answer. But what I get is sarcasm and ridicule.

You should change your siggy to say "Sometimes I'm right... and if you don't agree I'll trash you until you do."
Enjoy your forum.

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Hoping that you actually hang around, Steve. But I understand and respect whatever you decide to do. It's been fun watching you figure it all out and make progress. Even if you don't continue sharing it here, I wish you nothing but great things with your reno.

 

[kcassells]

Steve......….Come Back...………… to the DARK SIDE! C'mon...I'll be nice!

 

[Chris51280]

Can't we just all get along. Besides, this is supposed to be a fun forum and people should not be afraid to ask. At one point we all have been there and asked questions where others thought that it would be silly to ask this kinda question.
It's not steves fault that he put it back together as it was from the factory. It must have been legal to do so otherwise they would not have gotten away with it. Only because we are used to do it a certain way doesn't mean it other ways are wrong. Might not be perfect but so are so many designs of boat builders that leave us questioning why they build them that way. And besides, otherwise we would not be here having the fun rebuilding it better the second time

 

[ACon977]

And that's nonsense about not doing DD. I've watched hours of videos and searched for days on here and other forums for options to a problem and I come here to get a final answer.

Hey Steve, just reaching out my support. I've stalled on my rebuild and have been enjoying following yours. You've been doing great. KC is pretty direct in his advise but it usually has a basis to it, here he was just hoping to have you support the gas tank better to avoid rupture, its lasted 30+ years but may have had some wear and tear over that life span. My parents boat growing up caught fire and 30-35 gal of gas can really make for an impressive fireball, especially when you are swimming away from it..... not something to mess with. Although it seems like you want to do the foam supports and do it right.

I went head to head against KC on a few things in my boat, and heeded his advise, but didnt follow 100% in the end, probably was the unnecessary/harder way to do it, but I felt like I settled on a safe solution in the end.

Overall I've found this forum to be helpful, and each thread is a valuable resource for the next guy that wants to rebuild, as Im sure you and I both read through many of forums in preparation for starting our own. Keep up the great work and posting pictures, as I stated before, I've really been enjoying following along!

 

[steve_h7]

Thank you everyone for the support. I rarely get ruffled and not sure what did this time. Kevin I appreciate the outreach and I'll also try and quit being so whiney. Maybe just be aware that I think most newbies want to do it right, even if it wasn't done that way from the factory or that it doesn't follow the way the rules have improved over the years... but there's an awful lot to learn in a short period of time so it usually just takes pointing out what rules have changed and what needs to be done to make it better. Personally if it's anything short of bringing the boat to the dump and starting over, I'm open to any suggestions if I know what they are.If you just say what you think would really be a better plan and why, like post #306, it's much easier for a rookie to weigh the consequences of not following your suggestion to do it better and leaving it the way it was. Once I understood what you were suggesting I was totally onboard and obviously my intention never was to blow up the boat.

So anyway thanks again to everyone for the encouragement and we'll carry on after glassing 1/2" plywood strips under the tank welded tabs lifting it off the board and putting 1/2" neoprene strips between the support board top and the tank bottom and 1" strips between the tank sides and the stringers.

 

[kcassells]

Very Good! Keep on rolling.

 

[Chris51280]

I'll keep following along.
I tried to glue down the Neoprene strips with epoxy gorilla glue on a test piece. Its sticky but did not harden. I wS able to pull it off again. So I'm also struggling to get the strips in. Does pl premium work? We will both benefit from this solution.

 

[steve_h7]

I'll keep following along.
I tried to glue down the Neoprene strips with epoxy gorilla glue on a test piece. Its sticky but did not harden. I wS able to pull it off again. So I'm also struggling to get the strips in. Does pl premium work? We will both benefit from this solution.

Great post since I was going to use gorilla glue as well. So I'll wait and see if we get some suggestions.

 

[kcassells]

Try pl 5200. I used pb and it stayed.

 

[Chris51280]

I have the 4000uv. Should work too. It is similar according to the charts. I will try that out. Otherwise I will do pb.