First rebuild - '89 Campion Allante 185 - Stringers, Deck, Transom

[kcassells]

The trick is not to allow fuel/fumes into your bilge, if you have a leak. So upon ignition you don't become one with the sea.
Utter than that everyone seems to do what ever they want based upon how THEY interpret the Coast Guard Code.

 

[chevymaher]

Mine is designed the same way. I had a drain from the ski locker to the bilge. However, the pathway was foamed and the water was trapped rotting the wood. I will keep it the same way foaming under the tank board and will just run 3/4 piping that will seperate everything

Problem on mine is the water fro the deck has direct access there and then there is no way out for it. I thought of doing that myself. I preferred access to the tank than a sealed coffin. As it and most boats are new.

 

[kcassells]

Problem on mine is the water fro the deck has direct access there and then there is no way out for it. I thought of doing that myself. I preferred access to the tank than a sealed coffin. As it and most boats are new.

Chev,
I thought on mine for a long...………..time. My tank had a lid for access. The tank is 73 gal. and is @ 48"x 30". It was a factory lid with 2 hatches. I saved my lid and modified it for a tight fit. The problem to me was the lid was never going to have a complete seal and was in the middle of the boat deck. Traffic will be high and flex would happen eventually.
On my boat I think this was one of the design flaws from factory. I reviewed 100's of pics of my boat and nearly all of the had been caulked sealed telling me something was wrong.
When I need a new tank I'll be able to cut that area out pretty easily with my new hatch access giving me good views.
That large lid bothered me and I felt better not starting out with a wet zone start. The lid was was like 50 x 36.
I think a smaller lid can do the job just fine on most applications.

 

[steve_h7]

Stringers are PB'd in. Is there a preference to tabbing the entire length of the stringer in and then doing the bulkheads or putting the bulkheads in before tabbing and doing them together?
Thanks everyone

 

[kcassells]

Either way works. I put all in then tabbed.

 

[Chris51280]

It depends how you layed them out. Mu bulkheads were dividers for the stringers. As long all of them are tabbed you are good

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks guys, that makes sense. I made my stringers like I found it from the factory, in one single piece. Just for ease of fitting everything together, I'm going to go ahead and fit and glue the bulkheads in and then tab after that.
Thanks again for the advice,

 

[steve_h7]

I'll include the obligatory picture but it really doesn't look like much, but I want to note how much the hull as structurally changed. I've read others saying how much stiffer the hull felt after getting some components back in but experiencing it is a wonderful thing. Most of the first layer of tabbing on the stringers and bulkheads.

 

[Chris51280]

I noticed when I did both layers, the second one went down nicer with less work and less resin used. Try it out.

 

[steve_h7]

:thumb: I'm ready for less work. It was a long day.
First 5 gallon pail of poly is done.

 

[kcassells]

Wanna have fun? Run your tabbing full height x 2
or
To save your back, next time do the glass to the stringers on a table x 2

 

[chevymaher]

Wanna have fun? Run your tabbing full height x 2
or
To save your back, next time do the glass to the stringers on a table x 2

X2 anything you can on the benches before it goes in. Much simpler.

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

I noticed when I did both layers, the second one went down nicer with less work and less resin used. Try it out.

Anytime you can do both layers in 1 sitting it is so much easier. All of my tabbing was done wet on wet both layers right away. You get less chance for bubbles because both layers can still give and form to each other.

 

[steve_h7]

I wish I had a heated shop... it's still in the 40's here and the largest area with a heater is in the boat in the tent. But if I was to do this again it'd sure be worth dedicating an area for glassing before it going in.:thumb:

I'm old and retired. I'm not used to this working stuff.
Honestly I had the next layer all cut and ready to go but just ran out of steam. I know I'm going to have to grind some spots today and will wish I kept going yesterday.

 

[Chris51280]

I thought it would never end. Just wait until you have to cap the stringers. Csm is tricky but not impossible. You will get the hang too

 

[kcassells]

My torpedo heater from HDBLOW takes me from 0 to 90 in the coldest winters. Yup in spring I was outside uncovered doing the double dip glass. I hear ya.
Inside a tarp covered boat there is never enough space to do all that.
Keep on kickin ASS!
Looks good!

 

[froggy1150]

40 sucks..... was 92 yesterday at 530pm here

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks everyone.

My torpedo heater from HDBLOW takes me from 0 to 90 in the coldest winters.

I got the one from Dyna Glo but it does the same and has that tent at 90* in no time.

I got the rest of the tabbing in but everything everyone said was exactly right. Just as a note to myself if I do another rebuild, tab the first size and then tab the larger one in small areas. That's more important than tabbing all small in and coming back to tab larger. I've got to grind a couple areas that came badly and patch. It would have been a lot easier if tabbing both layers at the same time. :thumb:

 

[steve_h7]

Okay, stringers capped with CSM. I covered the gas tank support also with CSM but wondered if I need to paint the area between the stringers with gel coat or something before putting in the tank board? The factory had it coated with something so I wondered if I should repeat that or if that is needed.
Also during removing the old rotted material I accidentally cut through the hull. I saw jmink just tape the exterior and use PB and a couple of layers of 1708 but I've also watched Andy at Boatworks Today which involved grinding the small cut out into a larger area and laying down multiple layers of glass. Is that the suggested method as opposed to jmink's method?

Boatworks Today video: https://youtu.be/i9hfpOCnzEs

 

[kcassells]

If you have access to both sides then both sides are a good way to make the repair. On the exterior a slight bevel to the cut, sand down to glass, add some pb and put back to some glass. Sand, seal, paint or gelcoat.
Glass inside too. It is the best way but lots times you only have access to 1 side.
There's a couple of ways to do the methods.
Seems like you have done your research.