First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Installed new coil still no spark. I tried switching the wires and it kills the other coil. what is the blue box under the coils could this be the problem? What else would control just 1 coil not firing?
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

So the more I read seem to be more leaning toward the trigger. can someone tell me how to test this. I read the manual and couldnt really understand it. I have a multimeter, what do I put the meter on. and which wires do I connect too? please help. this weekend is gone but I would like to get it going. :(
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Please any takers on how to test the trigger? I dot want to buy another un needed part. Thank you in advance.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Please any takers on how to test the trigger? I dot want to buy another un needed part. Thank you in advance.
Hold on I'm about to post intructions just give me a few minutes to post it.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Please any takers on how to test the trigger? I dot want to buy another un needed part. Thank you in advance.
Trigger test
This applies to late 50hp (1988 D and later models)

1) Disconnect the green and orange tigger wires from the terminal block.
2) Set the meter on the 2.0 DVA scale. Connect the black lead to the green trigger wire and red test lead to the orange trigger wire.
3) Crank the engine while observing the meter. If trigger output is 0.3 volt or more, proceed to step 4. If peak reading is less than 0.3 volt or reading is intermittent, replace the trigger assembly.
4) Reconnect the orange and green trigger wires and disconnect the white/green and red trigger wires. Connect the black test lead to the red trigger wire, the red test lead to the white and green trigger wire and repeat step 3. If if trigger output is 0.3 volts or more reconnect wires to terminal block and proceed to CD module test. If output is less the 0.3 volt or if reading is intermittent, replace trigger assembly.

Good luck with dat
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Thank you for the directions that I can understand, would you have directions like this for the cd box if the trigger tests good?
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Thank you for the directions that I can understand, would you have directions like this for the cd box if the trigger tests good?
Hopefully you want need them but yes I can post those now so you won't have to wait.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

CD Module Test
This applies to late 50 hp (1988 D and later models) and 60 hp models

1) Remove the screws securing the CD module bracket to the power head and carefully pull the bracket out and away from the engine.
2) Disconnect the orange CD module output wire from the No. 1 ignition coil.
3) Set the meter on the 400 DVA scale. Connect the red test lead to a good engine ground and the black test lead to the orange output wire.
4) Crank the engine while observing the meter. If CD module output is 210 volts or more, reconnect the orange wire and proceed to Step 5. If output is less that 210 volts or if the reading is intermittent, replace CD module.
5) Disconnect the module red wire from the No. 2 ignition coil. Move the black test lead to the red wire and repeat step 4. The moduleoutput should be 210 volts or more. Replace the module if output is less than 210 volts or if reading is intermittent.
6) If CD module output is as specified at both coils, reconnect all wires and reinstall the module bracket to the power head.

Good luck wit dat.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

For got to mention both procedure instructions are from the Clymer shop manual, it would be a good idea for you to invest in one.
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Thank you for the info. im gone for the weekend so wont get to it until monday. Ill let you know how I make out. thanks again.
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

so I tried to do those tests. My multi meter is digitral and there is nothing on it that says DVA. What should the setting on the meter say? is there another abreviation for it? sorry for the stupid question but im new to a multi meter. all I got was zeros and low numbers no matter what I tested. also the wires on my trigger are white/green, white/orange, white/red and white/ yellow I think. but they all have a brown stripe are these the correct wires to test?
 

pnwboat

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

DVA meters are specialty meters. If you have a common multi-meter, you need an adapter. See explaination below.

DVA (Peak Reading) Voltmeters - Specialty meters for measuring average DC
voltages and AC voltage spikes on ignition systems. Some of the more common meters include the Stevens CD-77, Merc-o-tronic and ESI meters with DVA ranges.

Multi-use Voltmeters with DVA Adapters - Analog or digital VOM (volt, ohm
meters) using a plug-in DVA adapter to measure DVA voltages. Accuracy varies quite a bit between manufacturers and types of meters when taking DVA readings. The CDI/Rapair 511-9773 peak adapter is highly recommended for use with all Fluke meters.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

so I tried to do those tests. My multi meter is digitral and there is nothing on it that says DVA. What should the setting on the meter say? is there another abreviation for it? sorry for the stupid question but im new to a multi meter. all I got was zeros and low numbers no matter what I tested. also the wires on my trigger are white/green, white/orange, white/red and white/ yellow I think. but they all have a brown stripe are these the correct wires to test?
Auh..... Thats not a stupid question, like I've stated in other posts & will state again, everyone was new a some point know matter if that point was 50 years ago. I bet these old timers wish iboats was around when they were green :D

BTW: I should have mentioned that to you when I posted the test procedures, my bad :redface:
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

The multi meter I have is a craftsman Professional. it has the following buttons power, Hz/duty, REL, RANGE, HOLD, DC/AC. and has the follow seetings on the knob. left to right DC/AC V, OHM, Hz, CAP, DC/AC ( with 3 settings uA, mA, 20A), and temp on the bottom it has 4 plug holes left to right, red 20A, red mA.uA, black COM and red V, Hz, OHM, CAP. Do I still need an adapter if not where should I put the plugs and knob? I got this meter from my friend who is a lexus mech I thought for sure it would have what I need.:confused:
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Ok so im back to the guessing game. I cant figure out how to test these parts. so im throwing my money in the pot. if you had to buy the most common part that fails that causes no spark to 1 cyl what would it be. im taking a shot in the dark here but im desperate and want to take the boat out. the stator, trigger, or CDI box? The stator seems to me that would lose both cyl if that failed is this correct? any help would be greatful.
 

maxum247

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

Ok so im back to the guessing game. I cant figure out how to test these parts. so im throwing my money in the pot. if you had to buy the most common part that fails that causes no spark to 1 cyl what would it be. im taking a shot in the dark here but im desperate and want to take the boat out. the stator, trigger, or CDI box? The stator seems to me that would lose both cyl if that failed is this correct? any help would be greatful.

Wait for a few more opinions before you decide on what to order for your motor as I am not a professional as you have seen.

From the reading I've done if the stator is bad you loose all spark.
I also understand the trigger can go bad but usually doesn't go bad that often.
I have a very weak orange spark on cylinders #1 and #3 as you are aware. I have a used module coming in the mail soon for my 1989 125 HP Force Outboard (4 cylinder) and will be looking for another if the first one solves half of my spark problem as I expect (learned that the modules are likely my problem from help I've gotten here on the forum.) I will be glad to let you know how mine turns out as soon as I find out the results, hopefully sometime this week.

At any rate, good luck to you when deciding what part to order.

max!
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

ok so I have done all the tests that I think I can do. I dont know if I did them right but that is my problem not yours. I have ordered a CDI box through Iboats ( I cant believe the prices are that much cheaper than other websites). anyways, it will be in on fri and installed minutes after I get home from work. Thank you for all your help and hope that I have solved the issue. I will let you know what happens so if anybody else has this issue they can use this thread to help them. there are many good ideas and testing proceedures in here and hope it can help someone else.
 

Jeremy90bay

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

I forgot to ask, while doing all this stuff I unbolted the flywheel, never pulled it but unbolted it. do I need to torque the flywheel nut. I had to use a battery impact gun to get it off.
 

keepNitreel

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Re: First ride was kind of a success but I need help PEASE!

I forgot to ask, while doing all this stuff I unbolted the flywheel, never pulled it but unbolted it. do I need to torque the flywheel nut. I had to use a battery impact gun to get it off.
Yes, you need to torque the flywheel nut to 90lb. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I'm @ work and don't have the book in front of me.
 
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