first time back on the water(ouch)

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 19, 2008
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413
So first outing of the boating season, we boat the Suwannee river. Water levels have been very low, and have finally creeped up enough to take the Rinker out. All is well being casreful to due low the water levels. Have to run back to the ramp to drop off my sister. Ease up to the bank next to the ramp(there is no dock). She hops out I put it in reverse to back out, and clunk and chew sounds immediatly followed. Was turning probably about 1300rpms, seriously. Boat would barely plane so that ended out boating day. Pulled it out and was greeted
IMG_20110227_175710.jpgIMG_20110227_175651.jpgIMG_20110227_175629.jpg

So other than get a new prop, what do I do now. One boat place says make ins claim, and have the whole geearcase replaced. One says get new skeg welded on. Prop shaft seems true. What do you guys think? Thanks for the help.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
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26,064
Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

The skeg can be replaced with a weld on one. You really do not have enough remaining material to use a skeggaurd as a replacement :( You will need to find someone who is really familiar with aluminum welding. They are presently out of stock but I would call and ask http://www.iboats.com/Replacement-S...0421390--**********.519177775--view_id.168940

Next you will need a new prop. Stainless steel is the best but it is your wallet so which ever prop fit's your budget.

I do not know how insurance cover's that :confused: call them and ask.
 

Home Cookin'

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May 26, 2009
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

I don't think I'd annoy the insurance folks for anything other than a major disaster. "Pick your battles." A used SS prop is $250 and skeg welding $100. At low speed you would have spun the prop, not the shaft. I bet it's OK.
 

H20Rat

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Next you will need a new prop. Stainless steel is the best but it is your wallet so which ever prop fit's your budget.

'best' is up for debate... Stainless steel can give better performance, but, in an area where you can hit the bottom, stainless steel is also stronger. Instead of replacing a prop ($), you are replacing a driveshaft ($$$) that bent because your prop didn't absorb the blow.
 

Fireman431

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

I did the exact same thing. Hidden rocks are heck on spinning aluminum. If you're interested:

1) Do not replace with SS. If the same thing happens again, the prop won't bend up like that and you'll be replacing a propshaft and possibly the housing. SS is great if you are certain you have enough water under you.

2) Get the new skeg welded on. If the person is good at what they do, you'll never notice a difference.

3) That prop is easily repaired. Send it to a local prop shop (check phonebook or call the local fishing store). It will be fixed as good as new for aroung $60-$75. I have had 5-6 props repaired locally and they came back as good as new. They even rehub if necessary. My props are 23 x 23 brass. New ones are $1600. Both repitched and polished for $275.
 

veritas honus

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Jun 13, 2010
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Get the prop repaired; and get a new one in the mean time. When you pick up the repaired one from the shop, put it in your boat as a spare. A day on the water will not have to end again due to a damaged prop. If your swimming throughout the day anyway, you don't even have to pull your boat out of the water to swap a prop.
 

DaNinja

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Jun 11, 2008
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Get the prop repaired; and get a new one in the mean time. When you pick up the repaired one from the shop, put it in your boat as a spare. A day on the water will not have to end again due to a damaged prop. If your swimming throughout the day anyway, you don't even have to pull your boat out of the water to swap a prop.
Not sure if that prop is repairable, but it is worth a shot.
The previous owner of our Starcraft did that with the boats stock prop.
It was a handy spare that I installed last summer when the installed prop was nicked up.
Of course, any spare part that you carry also needs the tools onboard to install it.
 

veritas honus

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Of course, any spare part that you carry also needs the tools onboard to install it.

There was a time when one could say, "That goes without saying..." Times have changed. I believe we talked about that a couple nights ago.;) You're absolutely right, Ninja. I should have stated that.
 

jayhanig

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 27, 2010
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

On a slightly different but related topic: did you figure out what you hit? My memories of the Suwannee's bottom was that it was muddy and/or sandy. Lots of trees though....

I used to come down from North Carolina to dive around Branford and Ft. White several times a year. We always stayed in Lake City at one of the motels just off I-75. Branford was pretty primitive in those days.
 

Fireman431

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Not sure if that prop is repairableQUOTE]

It is certainly repairable. I've seen them go in with large chunks of the blades totally missing and come back perfect. It will be welded, ground smooth, repitched/recupped, and painted.
 

ezmobee

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

I don't understand why anyone would go to the trouble of getting an aluminum prop repaired for $60-75 when you can buy a brand new one for $100.
 

N3UP

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Aug 14, 2010
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

That's $25 more for gas......which will get you what, 4 or 5 gallons these days?
 

cbavier

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Apr 8, 2007
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

It is definatly repairable follow other advice. Keep the repaired one for a spare and order a new one from Mich Wheel or iboats. You should always carry a spare anyway so you don't lose a whole day on the water just because of a damaged prop. If you don't want to spend $400 or $500 for a stainless steel one just order an aluminum one like you have. Stainless steel ones can't hardly be repaired. If they are it''s very expensive. Aluminum can be and cheap. I pay $55 for a 19x21 to ber repaired. A new one at Mich wheel cost me $130. I carry two spares.
 

ezmobee

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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

That's $25 more for gas......which will get you what, 4 or 5 gallons these days?

Trip to/from the repair place plus time it takes to repair it = barely worth it.
 

robert graham

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Apr 16, 2009
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

If you're talking about Branford, Fl. area, the river is full of rocks, especially during low water levels. I'd check with insurance company regarding repair/replacement to see what they'll do for you, after all, you're paying the premiums. Otherwise, weld on a fabricated skeg and get a new prop, hope that prop shaft/lower unit internals aren't damaged. It's good that your prop was aluminum because if it had been SS it might have really tore up your gears. Good Luck!
 

stubbsboogie

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 19, 2008
Messages
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Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

On a slightly different but related topic: did you figure out what you hit? My memories of the Suwannee's bottom was that it was muddy and/or sandy. Lots of trees though....

I used to come down from North Carolina to dive around Branford and Ft. White several times a year. We always stayed in Lake City at one of the motels just off I-75. Branford was pretty primitive in those days.

Yep that is where I was. At the Branford ramp. I stopped by there yesterday and looked at the spot and found it was a huge piece of concrete, probably left over from the "new Bridge" that was put in when I was a kid. Just a random piece of concrete.
Oh and Branford is still very primative:)

Thanks for all the replies guys. I am taking it in this afternoon to get estimates on repair/replace and see what they tell me. I will keep you posted.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,073
Re: first time back on the water(ouch)

Stick with an aluminum prop. A SS prop will rip up the OD if you hit a rock. The skeg is repairable. Merc makes replacements. A good welder will not need to even drain the gear oil. A bad welder will want you to pull the propshaft and gears out.

If that river is low like that a lot, and it is you primary boating area, you might consider an outboard instead of the MerCruiser. it will not draw as much water, expecially when getting on plane. A jetboat or OB Jet are two other options.
 
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