Glastron V196 restoration

Dennischaves

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I got my new transom ready to be installed I put some pvc pipe in the holes where the outboard bolts will go through and also for the splashwell drain ...so theres no chance of water coming in contact with the wood Now if it only would stop raining
 

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Dennischaves

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Is 2 layers of 1708 enough to tab the transom and stringers in?
And do i have to cover everthing with csm after the 1708?
 

Jbasham

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I just did both on my boat.

Yea 2 layers of 1708 tabbing on the stringers is good. But I think the transom needs 2 full layers of 1708 not just tabbing.

No you don't have to cover with CSM. I did though, but just for the textured look.
 

Dennischaves

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I got the transom glued in tonight
What is the advantage to covering the 1708 with CSM?
 
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Baylinerchuck

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Is 2 layers of 1708 enough to tab the transom and stringers in?
And do i have to cover everthing with csm after the 1708?

I covered the transom wood in CSM front and back prior to gluing. I did this more to gain some extra thickness than anything else. I used 1.5 oz. CSM. I tabbed the transom in with 2 staggered layers of 1708 covering the entire transom. An addition layer of CSM on the outside of the 1708 really doesn't gain you anything IMO. I think it would be wasting resin.
 

Dennischaves

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Got the transom tabbed in
 

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MILKWEED

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You're moving right along, the fun parts are just beginning, just keep with it and you will be boating soon.
 

Dennischaves

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I just put a layer of csm over the whole transom for good measure
Transom is now done...time to tab in the stringers now
 

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Dennischaves

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I need some opinions here.....
My stringers have notches for 1"x3"s cut into them and the 1"x3"s span the width of the boat to support the plywood deck seams
my question is instead of using pine like glastron did could i use trek deck wood or something else instead of wrapping 4 1"x3"s in csm to water proof them
 

Baylinerchuck

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I need some opinions here.....
My stringers have notches for 1"x3"s cut into them and the 1"x3"s span the width of the boat to support the plywood deck seams
my question is instead of using pine like glastron did could i use trek deck wood or something else instead of wrapping 4 1"x3"s in csm to water proof them

I wouldn't use TREX or a similar type of decking for stringers. They just don't have the rigidity required and won't properly bed. There are several composite marine grade materials you could use for this, but cost prohibitive in my opinion. Exterior grade plywood, properly encapsulated is the best choice IMO. Exterior grade, or marine grade plywood is stronger than pine lumber.
 

kcassells

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Nope, just is not the dingy for structure or marine applications yet. Like Chuck said, con cur.
 

Dennischaves

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I need a quick lesson
The fiberglass on my transom really isnt sticky at all anymore but if i wipe it down with acetone it becomes sticky again. How long do i have to lay resin over it again after i wipe it down with acetone and it becomes sticky?
Or should i just grind it so the fiberglass will stick?
When i wipe it down with acetone it becomes sticky again then after a while it becomes kind of hard again ....im asking because i only have time to do my fiberglass layups on the weekends
 
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Baylinerchuck

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As long as you don't have surfacing wax in your resin, all you need to do is wipe it down with acetone so it's clean then add another layer. You can also use MEK in place of the acetone, as MEK is a little slower to evaporate. It's really best to do wet on wet layups though. Meaning don't wait until the resin totally cures before adding another layer. Add a layer after the resin kicks and is still tacky.
 

Dennischaves

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Got the outer stringers cut and bedded
 

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Dennischaves

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I need some more assistance from the more seasoned boaters/restorers
I plan in filling under the deck with pour in foam.Should i have some drain holes where the box is against the transom where the drain plug is? Incase any water gets under the deck....my thinking is that if i drill holes then any water that gets on the deck will sit in the drain box and it will have holes that lead to under the deck...whats the best thing to do here?
 

Baylinerchuck

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I pondered this same question a few months ago. In the end I chose not to add drainage. Bottom line is, no water should ever get in there. I took great care in ensuring my cavities that receive foam are 100% sealed.
 

Dennischaves

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Thanks again baylinerchuck
Im just concerned that "what if" water did get into the bildge with no way out it would be trapped in there ....i considered not adding foam but with kids and a wife that might not be the best idea
 
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Baylinerchuck

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My boat only has foam installed between the stringers and sides of hull, below deck. There is nothing the entire length of the center. I have drainage between every cross member along the keel. My boat can drain from the bow to the bilge. I also added drains to the bilge from my open bow seat boxes. I do not have or want drains outside of my stringers in the foam cavities which are sealed.

I hope you understand my ramblings.
 

Dennischaves

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I gotcha ....everywhere theres foam there no way for water to get to it
I dont need any drainage below deck if no water gets under there
Everything sits on top of the deck so i could fill the whole bildge with foam...i think thats what im going to end up doing and just seal the deck really well
 
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