Had boat in water first time today

[Bradmxz]

Good news. I unhooked the wire from shift interrupt switch started the engine and applied 12v to the black wire. I was able to set base timing. It was way off. About 10*atdc. I adjusted to 1* btdc. Hooked everything up as it should be and cut the white looped wire. Checked timing again and it was at 12*btdc. Everything is working as it should. There is no more back firing and no miss in the engine. Will have to try the boat again before I make any assumptions about the gear ratio and prop. I'm hoping the way it was wired was my problem for rpm as the ignition couldn't advance

 

[Rick Stephens]

I believe that the middle wire is the one that is used for 12 volt input from the interrupt switch, not the black wire that is on the left hand pin. Positive to that just turns off advance, it doesn't momentarily kill the motor like the middle one will when power is connected to it.

Rick

 

[Bradmxz]

I confirmed that the timing advances when throttle is applied. So it must be wired the way it should be now. I'll report back once I try it in the water. Thanks a lot for your help. It is very appreciated. Haha but I will still need help yet so I guess I'll say I'm appreciating your help.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I confirmed that the timing advances when throttle is applied. So it must be wired the way it should be now. I'll report back once I try it in the water. Thanks a lot for your help. It is very appreciated. Haha but I will still need help yet so I guess I'll say I'm appreciating your help.

Not.

I agree, it will be advancing the way you have it. The advance should work properly with no wires at all connected to that plug. However, your interrupt is not killing your ignition like it is supposed to, it is only turning off the advance. You will end up putting a lot of wear and tear on your shift cables and gears without the interrupt wired right.

 

[Bradmxz]

Ok I understand what you mean now. How can I know for sure which wire should be at the switch. Maybe the only way possible is to have the plug with the single wire

 

[Rick Stephens]

Middle one. Since you cut the white wire, just connect the middle one to your interrupt - which MUST be wired right. Stock, the interrupt grounds the ignition, the far side of the switch goes to ground. That does nothing with the EST Voyager. Instead of to ground you wire the interrupt switch to purple. So instead of going to ground, when the interrupt switch is activated, it supplies + (positive) voltage to the middle wire. Easy to test, hook it up and while running in the driveway push the interrupt to the side engaging the switch - the engine should instantly die.

 

[Bradmxz]

Yes you are right I can test it that way until I find the right wire for sure. Thanks

 

[alldodge]

I'm getting some mixed instructions on the EST. Ones which have the EST installed from the factory have connectors on the two white wires and are used during base timing with another jumper installed. The other wire goes to the interrupter and is grounded instead of placing power on it. Once timing is done, jumper is removed and reconnect interrupter.

In short, I think it should work fine the way it is with the white wire cut and not connected.

 

[Bradmxz]

Ok I can confirm that switch works as it should the way it is wire. Started the engine and pressed the lever with my finger and engine died.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Now that's cool news.

I just went through the process of complete rewire of my engine to repower to a 4.3, add the Delco EST and add electric fuel pump and all the associated harness mods like oil pressure switch and solenoid. So figured I had a pretty good handle on the EST system. My appreciation to AllDodge for finding another version of the instructions or we'd all be pointing fingers and pulling hair out.

 

[Bradmxz]

Haha well I'm a little lacking in the hair department so i guess I would have to pull teeth

 

[Bradmxz]

Boat in the water again today. I don't think I'll worry about changing the prop or the gear ratio. Was up on plane almost instantly. Cruised very good at wide open throttle. But still have a problem. At wide open throttle the engine worked perfectly for about 5 to 10seconds then started to die down. When lowering the throttle position it started to pick back up causing me to believe it's a fuel problem. I did notice that my choke is very flappy when the engine is warm. Would there be enough vacuum to close it at wide open throttle? The other thing I was thinking was the vent to the fuel tank might be blocked somehow. It's very easy to find that out. When I put it in the water again if it starts to die down again I'll loosen the fuel cap just a little. That should allow vent to the tank. I really want to thank you guys for your patience with me and without your help the boat would not be where it is now. It's a major major improvement from the last time. I do have one other problem with the shifter. It doesn't want to come out of gear sometimes. I adjusted the cables according to the manual but I cannot get the 6inch measurement with it in gear. 6 and 1/4 is what it's at now. Any ideas?

 

[alldodge]

If you followed achris video in the adults only section (link in my sig) and it didn't work, your probably need to replace the lower shift cable

 

[Rick Stephens]

Couple things to keep in mind.

1) If the shift cables are properly adjusted and there is the proper amount of free play in them, then when you shift out of gear under way, the shift interrupt momentarily kills the engine allowing the unloaded gears to undog and go into neutral.

2) If the cable is worn and sticky, the interrupt stays engaged and the motor dies.

3) If the linkages are not properly adjusted, then either it A) doesn't go into gear or B) grinds, or C) it won't come out of gear and the shift interrupt doesn't engage because not enough pull or push is put on the lower cable to disengage the gears.

 

[Bradmxz]

Yes ok the problem is the boat doesn't want to come out of gear. When I checked once today the shift interrupt lever was under the rocker. Pretty hard for it to work like that. Would I need a new set of cables or would a good cleaning and grease job help the situation. I'm pretty sure also the dieing down in the high rpms was the tank vent. Just had it in the water again and tied the choke flapper open. And that didn't fix it. So I loosened the fuel cover about a half a turn and the problem didn't return. Although this is my first boat I have to say this thing rocks. I can only imagine what it was like with the 4.3. Thank you guys so much for helping me. I definitely owe you two guys beers

 

[Bondo]

Would I need a new set of cables or would a good cleaning and grease job help the situation.

Ayuh,.... It's just the Lower Shift cable, from the motor to the drive, that goes Bad,.... usually,...

Replacin' it is the cure,.....
You can try cleanin', greasin', 'n adjustin' it,.....
Ya might buy some time, but probably not,....

 

[Bradmxz]

Ok. I'm not sure but I think it's a pretty big job from what I can tell

 

[Bradmxz]

It would appear my fuel problem isn't as simple as I first thought. I loosened the cap and put compressed air on the vent and air came out the cap. But had the boat in the water again yesterday and problem happened again. I loosened the ful cap and problem never returned. Any ideas where to look next. I have read some about the anti siphon valve giving troubles. But would this cause my symptoms? Also where would I look for this valve actually in the tank or in the fill tube? Just a guess but I would think the fuel cap would have no bearing on the valve would it

 

[Rick Stephens]

Anti syphon valve is inline in the fitting where the draw line attaches to the fuel tank. It is just a one way spring loaded ball valve. A little bit of crud is all it takes.

Rick

 

[Bradmxz]

Ok I'll check it out thanks