Have I bent the water tube

[buddyboy55]

have 1972 evinrude 65 hp I put the lower unit back on after getting new reverse gear replaced. I started it in yard and water is pissing not a 1/8 inch hole from engine side that faces the boat down right where the lower unit bolts up .i don't remember it coming out there . I also don't see any amount of water coming out of the 2 1/2 inch holes midway up the motor in he back I use to get a little bit there. I am getting water out of the little side grates. I am so discouraged. Don't know what to do

 

[oldboat1]

Run it in a barrel or in the lake (not on muffs.) If in a barrel, must cover the impeller 4 to 6 inches, give or take.

 

[flyingscott]

Did you make sure to line up the water tube in the pump housing?

 

[buddyboy55]

I thought I lined it up as good as I could you lose sight of it a 1/2inch before it bolts up tight. But is the water suppose to come out the front like I said could there be a chip in the housing I never saw

 

[F_R]

There is a hole at the front (forward) end of the seam between the gearcase and midsection housing,where they bolt together. That is a drain hole and water is supposed to come out there.

Did you use the two plastic guide tubes to enter the water tubes into the pump? Did you even see them? They usually shinny up the tubes and you have to retrieve them and stick them into the pump.

You cannot test a water pump by running on muffs. The pump is not pumping when you are doing that, it is only allowing hose water to pass through.

 

[buddyboy55]

Thanku sir, I never knew or heard about any plastic tubing I could see how that would help a lot but how would the tubes get out before I bolt up. Do I have a horn on this motor to tell me it's overheating

 

[F_R]

Assuming the last guy that had it apart used the guides, they are in there, slid up the tubes a ways. They can't get out once the lower unit is on.

Yes, it has a horn in the remote control. Nice, but I've found them to be unreliable.

 

[buddyboy55]

Thanku I'm going to take it back off in the morning thanks so much

 

[oldboat1]

Heel of your hand on the top of the powerhead is the old fashioned test (no tools involved). If right-handed, probably should test with your left hand.

There’s some science to this. Most people can tolerate 130-140F for a few seconds, but over 160F will burn. The normal operating temp for the motor is 120-140F (depends some on incoming lake or hose water temp.) Over 160F is overheating.

An infrared heat gun is the preferred way today (fun to play with too).

 

[buddyboy55]

Guys are the pieces of tub you say are on the water tub inside where I can't see and if gone what could I replace them wit what material

 

[buddyboy55]

Now I guess I'm done in guys I got the lower unit lowered enough to see the copper has no other pipe within a pipe and I must have missed the pipe is not crimped but bowed over maybe 1 inch and the edge of it has a mimemeter nick in it where the rim of the female hole went into it when I bolted it up . Did I mention I'm a carpenter 40 years I tried and I guess I've ruin it now. I have the unit tied off with wire cause I didn't want to have to pull that wire through again it broke when I took it off the first time and had to redo. What say you captains I've really blundered it didn't i

 

[buddyboy55]

Can anyone tell me how the water tube is connected up top I can't see it

 

[racerone]

The water tube has a grommet up top.----Held in with a fitting.-----A good flashlight may help you see it up there.----But it may require that you remove the powerhead and exhaust adapter to change the tube.----There may be other ways to correct your mistake as well.

 

[buddyboy55]

Thankyou

 

[buddyboy55]

Does anyone know the difference between my model number 65273 S and one without the S what does the S stand for please. In buying parts do I have to make sure I say S thanku

 

[oldboat1]

Maybe you could repair the existing tube? shark bite fitting, maybe?

 

[buddyboy55]

Guys I really need help I did not damage the water pipe but I did find the plastic guide the tube needs to follow into pump but I got it to go into place put it back together and still no water out the two holes in the back. I have a manual and have read I cannot find any play by play instructions of how to do this . After reading I saw a grommet is to go inside the pump and the copper pipe I assume goes into that . It's real confusing in that there is nothing in the book that tells me the order how can the groumet go in there and then where does the guide go and how does the tube connect with the guide in the way . Is it this hard guys?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Those two holes in the top rear portion of the long exhaust housing are not actual water outlet tell-tale holes. there is a inner exhaust tube/housing within that long housing, the purpose of which is to fill with water between the two to cool that long section... otherwise, the paint would burn off during its very first run. When that area fills with water, the excess spills out those two holes. If not for this setup, you can see that the water would continue to rise to enter the bottom cylinder at a minimum.

I don't remember if that engine has one or two water tubes, however.... The water tube rubber grommets are installed into the top of the water pump "underneath" that small metal or plastic bracket that's screwed/attached to the top of the pump. Keeping in mind where the grommets are... the tube(s) should enter them fully.

You can tell whether you bent the tube(s) or not by doing the following: From the section of that long exhaust housing where the lower unit attaches (the edge of it)... measure from there up to the bottom of the tube(s). Now, measure from the top surface of the lower unit up the pump to the height of that measurement... that's where the bottom of the water tube would rest within the pump when it's assembled.

If the tube(s) is bent... you can't hurt it any further and it's one hellava job to change (remove powerhead/adapter plate, etc etc... quite involved).... grab it with long nose pliers (or something) and pull it down if you can (it can be done).

The nylon guide(s) are always on the copper water tubes, BUT they vibrate up the tubes as the engine runs, then salt corrosion does its little gluing job and hides therm quite well. Look closely up the tube with a strong beamed flashlight and use a long junk regular (slotted) screwdriver that you can put a small hook in the end yank it/them down.

That small bracket that screwed into the top of the water pump has a ridge when the water tube goes.... the ridge is to hold the guides in the pump while you guide the lower unit upwards so that you have a good view of the tube(s) entering the guides.

Next time, when you're not sure of what you're doing.... ask here first.

 

[buddyboy55]

Mr reeves thanku for responding , believe me I am not knowledgable to have taken this on. There is 5 Mach in this town the motor is older then all of them if it has no computer they are lost as to fixing it. I put the rubber grommet into the female on the top of pump but the plastic guide does not slip into it maybe I can force it but unless it goes in the single water pipe that goes in the plastic guide it won't track down to the pump when I push it up to bolt. What am I not understanding

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re-read slowly everything I wrote in post #18... I didn't leave anything out... apparently it just hasn't sank in yet. The guide DOES NOT go into the grommet! See the diagram below.