Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Man, that whole engine and wiring is a MESS!!!

Here's what I'd be doing... And it will be the easiest way to get you up and running.... strip EVERYTHING off that engine and leave the barest of block there (just the block and heads)... Also check that the core plugs are not steel (use a magnet)... They should be brass or stainless steel. I would also rip the engine harness off completely, as you will end up chasing your tail if you don't.... (Seen it too many times :facepalm...

Then just start putting on the right gear... Starter motor, Alternator, dissy, intake and carb, fuel pump.... and gradually build the engine up nice and clean... Once everything is in place, sort out the engine wiring harness. Meter every wire to make sure it goes to the right connector on the plug, then lay the harness in and start connecting stuff up....

We have established that it's early 80s, what we need to know now is if it's BIA colour coding or pre-BIA.... I think I gave you a couple of manuals to download. In those you'll find wiring diagrams...Study and learn them.... Understand how everything hooks together, and see if you can work out if the coding is BIA or pre.... If it's BIA, then that grey wire is the tacho feed, and I think (not too sure on non-genuine dissys), it should be hooked to the coil negative.... Check the instructions that came with the dissy....

Chris......

UPDATE: I removed all the automotive components - dissy, carb, alternator, fuel pump, and have removed the male engine harness running to the instrument panel along with the female end running to the engine aspects. I have a new FlameThrower Ign II, Holley 650 CFM 4 bbl carb, marine fuel pump, and used (BUT SOLID W/O ANY SPLICES!!) 9-pin male and female Mercruiser engine harnesses. Baby steps and patience now and for the next couple weeks. Please see my pics of new MARINE parts!!! Thx to all thus far. I truly appreciate it! Wiz

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

In addition to pics posted previously...

 

[achris]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Where's your new dual plane intake manifold?

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Where's your new dual plane intake manifold?

Working on that... marine shop said they did not have any intakes sitting around due to improper winterizing. He said I should be ok (for a while) with freshwater off the Great lakes with the alum intake... no salt for corrosion... was looking for high risers intake but no luck around here. Exhaust will be after engine, components, wiring, and gauges.

Looking -> http://www.michiganmotorz.com/dart-dual-plane-manifold-standard-port-1986earlier-p-921.html

or -> #7116? from http://www.dannysrods.com/ed_perf_man.html

 

[NHGuy]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Hey you are looking good. I haven't read the entire thread but I read the beginning the other night and the last few posts just now.
I have a thought for you, and forgive me if this has been covered.
When you rig your fuel system and carburetor keep your eyes open for the clear vent tube that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor. It is a tell tale for you to know if the fuel pump is running on it's original diaphragm. If it ever fills with fuel you then need to replace the fuel pump. That is how it tells you the pump has worn or broken the main diaphragm and that it's on the backup diaphragm. Yours is new so it won't likely fail for many years if at all.
I bring it up since your car engine would not have had that part, plus your marine carburetor should have a hose barb on it for the clear line. I'd expect the engine to run poorly if that vent isn't occuppied correctly. Plus you want the fuel system completely enclosed to minimize vapors in the bilge area.
Good job, you are doing things the right way. It will pay off with long safe service later.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Hey you are looking good. I haven't read the entire thread but I read the beginning the other night and the last few posts just now.
I have a thought for you, and forgive me if this has been covered.
When you rig your fuel system and carburetor keep your eyes open for the clear vent tube that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor. It is a tell tale for you to know if the fuel pump is running on it's original diaphragm. If it ever fills with fuel you then need to replace the fuel pump. That is how it tells you the pump has worn or broken the main diaphragm and that it's on the backup diaphragm. Yours is new so it won't likely fail for many years if at all.
I bring it up since your car engine would not have had that part, plus your marine carburetor should have a hose barb on it for the clear line. I'd expect the engine to run poorly if that vent isn't occuppied correctly. Plus you want the fuel system completely enclosed to minimize vapors in the bilge area.
Good job, you are doing things the right way. It will pay off with long safe service later.

"...plus your marine carburetor should have a hose barb on it for the clear line. I'd expect the engine to run poorly if that vent isn't occuppied correctly. Plus you want the fuel system completely enclosed to minimize vapors in the bilge area." GOLDEN! THX!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

I am speechless! And that NEVER happens!!! Are you human? THANK YOU!!! You fishing this out or Photoshopping the diagrams?

Do some boats not have an ignition amplifier? Please see the 2 different sets. Thx.

 

[gwizzar]

Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

Please see two different sets... Thx!



DUPLICATE from Merge

 

[Don S]

Re: Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

Re: Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

That's for Thunderbolt ignition systems, You don't have thunderbolt ignition anymore, you went from automotive distributor to the Mallory

I merged your two thread, please don't post the same thing in two different spots, it's really confusing.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

Re: Do all boats have an ignition amplifier?

That's for Thunderbolt ignition systems, You don't have thunderbolt ignition anymore, you went from automotive distributor to the Mallory

I merged your two thread, please don't post the same thing in two different spots, it's really confusing.

Will not happen again:facepalm:

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

"...plus your marine carburetor should have a hose barb on it for the clear line. I'd expect the engine to run poorly if that vent isn't occuppied correctly."

Where would you expect to see a hose barb located that you are referring to? Please view pics of the Holley Performance 650 CFM Four Barrel Carburetor. Thx!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Question: The carb came with a red wire... should I connect that wire from the carb to the alternator in place of the purple run you displayed. Please see pics. Thx!

 

[Don S]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

You don't need the red wire that came with the kit, use the purple wire already in your harness for the electric choke as shown in the wiring diagram.
This picture also shows the hose barb for your clear hose from the fuel pump.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

You don't need the red wire that came with the kit, use the purple wire already in your harness for the electric choke as shown in the wiring diagram.
This picture also shows the hose barb for your clear hose from the fuel pump.

View attachment 153252

Thx, Don! Another ? - the carb did not come with a clear line... what do you recommend in regards to clear fuel line and clamps? I am going to double check the instructions but I am pretty certain it did not mention it. This line illustrates the clear line connection though, correct?

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Just to share... the female harness is being replaced because it had waaaay too many spliced wires and clusters for me to stomach. Please see the attached pic where green arrows are spliced wired, bundled wires are red arrows, and blue arrows display just some of the numerous jumps to different sized and colored wires. *Side-bar question - The brown w/white line wire (bottom-centered red arrow) was cut and never attached to anything... wiring says it goes to terminal block before the trim sender. Any ideas? Trim never worked according to previous owner. What do you recommend? Also, please view post #29. Thank you!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Hey you are looking good. I haven't read the entire thread but I read the beginning the other night and the last few posts just now.
I have a thought for you, and forgive me if this has been covered.
When you rig your fuel system and carburetor keep your eyes open for the clear vent tube that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor. It is a tell tale for you to know if the fuel pump is running on it's original diaphragm. If it ever fills with fuel you then need to replace the fuel pump. That is how it tells you the pump has worn or broken the main diaphragm and that it's on the backup diaphragm. Yours is new so it won't likely fail for many years if at all.
I bring it up since your car engine would not have had that part, plus your marine carburetor should have a hose barb on it for the clear line. I'd expect the engine to run poorly if that vent isn't occuppied correctly. Plus you want the fuel system completely enclosed to minimize vapors in the bilge area.
Good job, you are doing things the right way. It will pay off with long safe service later.

Thanks! I am learning much and seeing this much clearer now. I am amazed at how much knowledge exists on this forum

 

[Don S]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

The brown w/white line wire (bottom-centered red arrow) was cut and never attached to anything... wiring says it goes to terminal block before the trim sender.

The brown white wire goes to a trim gauge. You don't have one.

You mentioned trim doesn't work, does the tilt work? If not, start a new thead on that subject. It could get long in itself.

Those Scotch locks (What you point out in blue) are the worst thing that could happen to boat wiring. They should be cut out and a heat shrink butt splice put in it's place.

The big crimp connectors with 4 or 5 wires going to them you show with the red arrows are Merc, and should be taped up and supported and not having the wires being pulled all different directions at the splice. That is why wires break.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

The brown white wire goes to a trim gauge. You don't have one.

You mentioned trim doesn't work, does the tilt work? If not, start a new thead on that subject. It could get long in itself.

Those Scotch locks (What you point out in blue) are the worst thing that could happen to boat wiring. They should be cut out and a heat shrink butt splice put in it's place.

The big crimp connectors with 4 or 5 wires going to them you show with the red arrows are Merc, and should be taped up and supported and not having the wires being pulled all different directions at the splice. That is why wires break.

Yep.. no trim gauge, but tilt does work. Cut the trim wire and heat shrink the end? or what do you recommend? I have two sets (the female and male) engine wiring harnesses arriving some time tomorrow. they are solid w/o any splices or Scotch locks as far as I know. If so, I will cut and heat shrink butt splice... think that secures and keeps the moisture out, correct? I actually spread out the Merc crimp connectors just to give a better visual of it... The new female/male engine harnesses are said to be wrapped nicely. Please advise on post #29 and #74... position of coil & barb hose inlet. Also, see the following... carb manual states the barb inlet is for "Fresh Air." Am I reading it wrong? Thx!

 

[Don S]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

The title of this thread is Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Please start a new thread on carbs, trim, etc. It has nothing to do with your distributor.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

The title of this thread is Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Please start a new thread on carbs, trim, etc. It has nothing to do with your distributor.

Will do. Thx!