Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Has anyone had a very difficult time replacing a distributor due to poor/limited clearance? Is it common to need to remove the cap and manipulate gently often? It's really tight. I also needed to add a coil ignition since the previous coil was built-in the automotive distributor. How exactly should it be positioned on an intake manifold? Please see attached images. Thank you! Thx!

 

[achris]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Trim sender and trim pump system are COMPLETE isolated... The trim sender is just a variable resistor in series with the trim gauge on the dash... If you have a trim problem (surprise, surprise!!) start a new thread for that problem...

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

There are some steps involved to installing the dizzy.

Have the engine at #1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. I have the balancer at the correct timing mark instead of 0? (check your manual for correct timing at idle) and put the dizzy in exactly at #1 post.

Have the rotor positioned so it is exactly dead on at the #1 post on the cap while it is inserted in the engine.

You may have to turn the oil pump to get the rotor to sit right. The oil pump is driven by the bottom slot in the dizzy.

You can use a long flat screwdriver to turn the oil pump to the correct position.

I always install the dizzy with the cap off to accomplish this.

Put some tape on the dizzy body directly under the cap, and mark the tape directly inline with the #1 cylinder, Remove the cap

Now you can see the rotor under the cap which turns. It has to be exactly at the mark on the tape when it is in the engine. It will take a few times in and out to get it right.

See the attached pic of the "blue tape" and mark on the dizzy.

That is how I do it.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

There are some steps involved to installing the dizzy.

Have the engine at #1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. I have the balancer at the correct timing mark instead of 0? (check your manual for correct timing at idle) and put the dizzy in exactly at #1 post.

Have the rotor positioned so it is exactly dead on at the #1 post on the cap while it is inserted in the engine.

You may have to turn the oil pump to get the rotor to sit right. The oil pump is driven by the bottom slot in the dizzy.

You can use a long flat screwdriver to turn the oil pump to the correct position.

I always install the dizzy with the cap off to accomplish this.

Put some tape on the dizzy body directly under the cap, and mark the tape directly inline with the #1 cylinder, Remove the cap

Now you can see the rotor under the cap which turns. It has to be exactly at the mark on the tape when it is in the engine. It will take a few times in and out to get it right.

See the attached pic of the "blue tape" and mark on the dizzy.

That is how I do it.

Got it! great! Thx!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

With your alternator.

View attachment 152670

Does the new resistor wire go from the (+) coil terminal to the red/purple wire, the purple wire, or both? Thanks! Fired up and ran great last evening, but tach not working. Lights up & a meter displays the correct juice going to it, but not moving the gauge needle whatsoever. It is the Flamethrower coil and the resistor wire according to Petronix and I want to be certain where the new resistor wire ties in to coming up from the coil. Thanks!!

 

[achris]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

View attachment 155817

Does the new resistor wire go from the (+) coil terminal to the red/purple wire, the purple wire, or both? Thanks! Fired up and ran great last evening, but tach not working. Lights up & a meter displays the correct juice going to it, but not moving the gauge needle whatsoever. It is the Flamethrower coil and the resistor wire according to Petronix and I want to be certain where the new resistor wire ties in to coming up from the coil. Thanks!!

You shouldn't be using a resistor wire with a non-points system. As per Don's drawing "REPLACE resistor wire with solid wire"... That's not to replace the resistor wire with another resistor wire, it's replace the resistor wire with a length of normal wire....

The tacho should be connected to the '-' of the coil....

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

You shouldn't be using a resistor wire with a non-points system. As per Don's drawing "REPLACE resistor wire with solid wire"... That's not to replace the resistor wire with another resistor wire, it's replace the resistor wire with a length of normal wire....

The tacho should be connected to the '-' of the coil....

Tacho is connected to the neg coil terminal... I guess I am confused (semantics) on what to do with "replacing the resistor wire with a length of normal wire..." I take a "length" of "normal" wire and run it from the (+) coil terminal to...where? What do you mean by "length" and "normal" wire? Thanks, Chris!

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Glad you got that thing running. The resistance wire lowers voltage to the coil to protect points. One side of the wire is attached to 12V the other side of the wire attached to the (+) on the coil and the wire reduces voltage down to 6 or so volts.

Since you don't have points, the pertronix will require the full 12v so use standard ol wire like you've been using. I believe the RED/PURP wire will have 12v all the time (not thur the ignition switch), so you don't want to attach to that one. It would connect to the Purple which should only have 12V when the key is turned to run.

You want to shut off the ignition (spark to the engine) with the key so attach it to the wire that will only get power while the key is on.

 

[achris]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Tacho is connected to the neg coil terminal... I guess I am confused (semantics) on what to do with "replacing the resistor wire with a length of normal wire..." I take a "length" of "normal" wire and run it from the (+) coil terminal to...where? What do you mean by "length" and "normal" wire? Thanks, Chris!

Length = the amount of longness you need to get from point 'A' to point 'B'.
Normal = not resistive. Just a length (see above) of electrical wire you would use anywhere else on the boat....

Connect it to a purple wire anywhere in the engine harness. If you have an electric choke, that will be a good place to tie in. Otherwise there will be a purple wire going to the back of the alternator (unless you have a single wire alternator...).... And if the new wire you put in is purple, all the better and easier to troubleshoot in the future....

Chris........

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Length = the amount of longest you need to get from point 'A' to point 'B'.
Normal = not resistive. Just a length (see above) of electrical wire you would use anywhere else on the boat....

Connect it to a purple wire anywhere in the engine harness. If you have an electric choke, that will be a good place to tie in. Otherwise there will be a purple wire going to the back of the alternator (unless you have a single wire alternator...).... And if the new wire you put in is purple, all the better and easier to troubleshoot in the future....

Chris........

Ok! Thx! I do have a purple wires going to the alternator and the electric choke of the carb. I will just go back to the purple wire on the carb's electric choke and tap into it/add a wire from it to the (+) terminal of the coil. ***I do have purple wire left over from the previous wire harness)Thank you!!!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: Help replacing an automotive distributor with Marine Flamethrower Ign II

Glad you got that thing running. The resistance wire lowers voltage to the coil to protect points. One side of the wire is attached to 12V the other side of the wire attached to the (+) on the coil and the wire reduces voltage down to 6 or so volts.

Since you don't have points, the pertronix will require the full 12v so use standard ol wire like you've been using. I believe the RED/PURP wire will have 12v all the time (not thur the ignition switch), so you don't want to attach to that one. It would connect to the Purple which should only have 12V when the key is turned to run.

You want to shut off the ignition (spark to the engine) with the key so attach it to the wire that will only get power while the key is on.

Thx! I'm going to tap into the purple wire connected to the carb's electric choke and run it to the coil's (+) terminal. Sweet!!