Re: help with cargile cutter
Okay, I'll start with some general comments... first, I'd recommend you block out some time to do some reading here on deck replacement. There are lots of ways to do it, but it sounds like what you're planning is more along the lines of repair to a house than a boat.
Take some time to learn how folks here replace their decks, it'll be worth reading.
Using exterior grade ply is fine. The reason marine is better if you can afford it is that it's got no voids in it, which are weak spots and places water can collect, and it's usually got a larger number of plies than "regular" ply. Contrary to what some people think it's not especially rot resistant, nor is the glue used for it super waterproof.. it's the exact same glue used for exterior grade. There are a lot of threads here on what plywood to use, read a bunch of them.
Fiberglass comes typically in two widths: 50 inch and 38 inch. Regardless of which you use, you absolutely do not want the edges to line up with the edges of your wood. That would leave cracks and places for water to get in, which is what you don't want.
More to the point, you don't need to worry about cracking fiberglass by screwing it down, because you shouldn't apply the glass to the wood before you put it on.
What you want to do is install the wood, possibly glassing the lower side if it's not reachable once installed, and also coat the edges of the individual pieces with epoxy or poly resin where they are exposed. Once the whole deck is in place, then you cover it all with fiberglass and resin in one large piece, making the whole thing into a very strong unified whole.
The plastic decking is something most folks new to boats find and want to use. It doesn't rot, but the price you pay is that it's heavy, not very stiff, and pretty much impossible to fiberglass over or even to get resin to stick to. You can fasten it mechanically, IE screw it down, but unless you've already built another deck under it for support it performs poorly. In short, don't use it. If you properly install the wood and cover it with glass, it will last just as long.
The wiring, cabling, etc may or may not be in your roof (probably not much if it is). Most likely you'll need to pull part of that out when you do the upper deck, since there's not likely to be much room up there. I'd play it by ear and pull out whatever you need to pull to do the upper deck.
The hull won't spread unless the stringers and deck below are rotted out and removed, although your hull sides between lower and upper deck may warp a bit - if you're worried about this, measure the space inside them and keep checking it, if warping happens you can build supports to correct things.
That's about the best help I can give you without seeing more.. I'd recommend taking part of the deck to be replaced and the lower deck ceiling out to see what's there, so you can make better plans.
Erik
PS: Don't be surprised to find other rot... most people get into these restores to fix one thing like a rotten deck and find rotten stringers and transom.. if your lower deck is ok you may be fine, but you may not...