help with cargile cutter

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
:confused:just bought a 1973 28ft cargile cutter and went to denver and brought it home last week. i knew when i bought it that it needed the upper deck replaced, all 20x8 ft. of it. first i must remove the railing all around and then the control cab witch sets on top and is about the size of a small car. no problem with this as i am a retired pro. mechanic and handy with remodeling also. on inspection of deck it has 2 layers of 3/4 plywood. is this normal to have 1 and 1/2 inches of wood 14 ft off the water with a v hull. seems like a lot of weight. maybe the past owner patched it up by adding another layer? there is a few load bearing walls below, so even if the factory did put on 2 layers of plywood what would one layer do. maybe one layer of 1 in. how do they hold the deck down around the edges. is there wood enbeded in the hull around the edges? if i must put on 2 layers of 3/4, should i glue the 2 layers togather? most of this stuff i will find out by doing it but i would like to go into this project with some preperation and planning. i have a jillion questions for some one that ownes or has owned a cargile cutter. this is such a unusual old boat that i must bring it back to is origanal glory. actually its in good shape except for deck and was in the water 3 yrs ago going by registration sticker on bow. also would like to get a copy of someones manual. thanks dennis gustafson, grand junction colo.
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: help with cargile cutter

Definitely post some pics... it's a very unusual boat, and I think a lot of people here haven't seen one.

I'd guess the two layers are a past fix from someone... that's a lot of weight, and the guys at the factory would have known better.

I'd recommend replacement with a single layer of 3/4" at the most, glassed with cloth on both sides and then reinforced from the bottom with top hat type "ribs". That'll make it super stiff and keep the weight down.

I'd recommend epoxy for the structural work, for a safety margin.. you can use poly too, but this boat is sort of unusual compared to a regular deep V or other small boat, and unless you know where it generates stress in its structure the extra strength would be good to have. But, it's up to you.

Erik
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
Re: help with cargile cutter

erik. thanks for the repy. will send pics as soon as i figure out how. i thought about glassing 4x8 3/4 exterier grade as it is $40.00 a sheet. will need 5 sheets to do job. i have only used glass on body work on corvett and that was 10 yrs ago. i have confidence we can do this. does glass come in 4x8 sizes so seams can be at edges? my son has a difference of opinion on type of plywood. he says use marine type but it looks like $8o.oo per sheet. i say exterier should be ok incased in glass and i,m not building a hull. biggest worry we had with incasing each panel was will we crack fiberglass when screwing it down. the only boat i,ve owned was a 18ft cressliner all alum. cutty. this cutter in a way different class. you mention top hat ribs, looking at ceiling it has smooth paneling but don,t know if it is glued to upper deck. now with my pretend xray vesion i think there might be an air space between upper deck and false ceiling. can,t see where all the control cables and wires are hidden. do you think it would be best to leave ribs and lower deck ceiling in place and do deck first to keep hull from spreading. or is that even a facture with a boat this size. then maybe do ribs and ceiling next? what is your best guess at cost to glass 4x8 sheets? i have to buy all meterals and some tools. the reason i ask is that i have found 4x8 sheets of plastic 3/4. same stuff playground equip and high end docks are made from. when the earth is gone it will still be the same. this stuff is made from recycled milk bottles and stuff, thought it might be cheap but is $175.00 per sheet. i have found 3 carvel cutters for sale and all says deck must be replaced. as i only gave $1500.00 for boat i can get around wife and use it. by the time i buy wood and incase it would final price justify using decking that will never need replacing again? this must be a week spot for cutters. my 2 fingers are getting sore so will leave it at that. looking foward to reply,s. dennis.
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: help with cargile cutter

Okay, I'll start with some general comments... first, I'd recommend you block out some time to do some reading here on deck replacement. There are lots of ways to do it, but it sounds like what you're planning is more along the lines of repair to a house than a boat.

Take some time to learn how folks here replace their decks, it'll be worth reading.

Using exterior grade ply is fine. The reason marine is better if you can afford it is that it's got no voids in it, which are weak spots and places water can collect, and it's usually got a larger number of plies than "regular" ply. Contrary to what some people think it's not especially rot resistant, nor is the glue used for it super waterproof.. it's the exact same glue used for exterior grade. There are a lot of threads here on what plywood to use, read a bunch of them.

Fiberglass comes typically in two widths: 50 inch and 38 inch. Regardless of which you use, you absolutely do not want the edges to line up with the edges of your wood. That would leave cracks and places for water to get in, which is what you don't want.

More to the point, you don't need to worry about cracking fiberglass by screwing it down, because you shouldn't apply the glass to the wood before you put it on.

What you want to do is install the wood, possibly glassing the lower side if it's not reachable once installed, and also coat the edges of the individual pieces with epoxy or poly resin where they are exposed. Once the whole deck is in place, then you cover it all with fiberglass and resin in one large piece, making the whole thing into a very strong unified whole.

The plastic decking is something most folks new to boats find and want to use. It doesn't rot, but the price you pay is that it's heavy, not very stiff, and pretty much impossible to fiberglass over or even to get resin to stick to. You can fasten it mechanically, IE screw it down, but unless you've already built another deck under it for support it performs poorly. In short, don't use it. If you properly install the wood and cover it with glass, it will last just as long.

The wiring, cabling, etc may or may not be in your roof (probably not much if it is). Most likely you'll need to pull part of that out when you do the upper deck, since there's not likely to be much room up there. I'd play it by ear and pull out whatever you need to pull to do the upper deck.

The hull won't spread unless the stringers and deck below are rotted out and removed, although your hull sides between lower and upper deck may warp a bit - if you're worried about this, measure the space inside them and keep checking it, if warping happens you can build supports to correct things.

That's about the best help I can give you without seeing more.. I'd recommend taking part of the deck to be replaced and the lower deck ceiling out to see what's there, so you can make better plans.

Erik

PS: Don't be surprised to find other rot... most people get into these restores to fix one thing like a rotten deck and find rotten stringers and transom.. if your lower deck is ok you may be fine, but you may not...
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: help with cargile cutter

Oop, forgot - cost to glass per 4x8 sheet depends on glass and resin chosen.. typically for deck covering I'd use about 8 oz glass both sides and either epoxy resin for long lasting work or poly resin for money savings. Vinylester is a compromise between both.

For epoxy it'll cost about $20 in glass and $25 in resin for both sides to be coated. For poly about the same for glass and $5 for both sides.

Figure out how much you need for all your work at the start, then buy in bulk as you can to save cash. CompositesOne or US Composites or www.iboats.com are good places to get resin and glass.

As mentioned though, don't pre-laminate the wood unless you're prepared to tape (with more glass and resin) the cracks between sheets and cover the screw holes.

Erik
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
Re: help with cargile cutter

erick, thanks for imput. you are so right. i've repaired a lot of houses but no boats. talked with wife and $170 plastic sheets is out. just a thought any way. some one said in one of the boat repair sections that boat builders build as cheap as possible and it is up to us to make repair better than it was. i,am leaning toward marine grade simply because of what you said about voids. don,t want to find one of them with one of my 250lb foot step. i plain to read all i can on iboats but am new at this and have only got this far by pure luck. got a lot to learn about navagating a forum. but that is what i,m going to do next. thanks again for imput it is more help than you know. dennis g grand junction colo.
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: help with cargile cutter

I'd suggest looking for my own personal favorite wood for boat work - it's called "Arauco" plywood, and it's plantation grown pine from south america.

Each 3/4" sheet is AC or AB grade exterior, and usually both sides are nearly knot free. It has very few voids (maybe 1-2 per sheet). It's the closest I've been able to come to marine ply without paying the huge price. Cost is about $27 for a 4x8 3/4" sheet.

For epoxy or poly and fiberglass, US Composites is about the best price I've found.

Erik
 

76-cutter

Recruit
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
4
Re: help with cargile cutter

Dennis, i am the 3rd owner of a 76 28' cutter. I have all the paper work that came came with the boat when it as purchased in alabama. I bought the boat in georgia dec. 08. It is now in scottsdale az.i replaced the deck and framing this last winter along with spliting the bridge and making it a walk thru bow. I have learned a great deal about these boats and would be glad to help. My wife and i (and freinds) love this boat and spend as much time on her as possible.
Doug
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
Rethe: help with cargile cutter

Rethe: help with cargile cutter

doug, glad to hear from another cargile cutter owner. sounds like replacing the deck on a cutter is something that must happen to all of them at one time or another. got any photos of replacing deck? what,s under the deck in the cabin area. is there a bilge under there. that chrome screw out cap at aft end in floor, that says water, if you remove cap while setting in water will you get water? kind of like wilie coyote in a boat with a fountain about 4 ft high? if there is ribs under there is there any way to check them out before i spend several hundred $ repairing and fixing. can,t wait to start. i,m collecting materals and mostly knowledge right now. right now all i can do is just sit and look at it in wonder. dennis gustafson grand junction colo. look forward to hear from you.
 

erikgreen

Captain
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
3,105
Re: help with cargile cutter

I get mine at Menards, which is a home improvement type department store where I live. I've also seen it advertised at Lowes.

Erik
 

76-cutter

Recruit
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
4
Re: help with cargile cutter

Dennis
Under the cabin floor is a 80 gal. fresh water tank. The tank starts at back of the cabin and runs past the head. There is a vent under the foward dining bench. There is a oulet in the engine compartment foward of the fuel tank. On mine the pressure pump is located aft of the fuel tank on the port side. To drain it raise the bow,disconect the pump,open the fill in the cabin floor and let it drain thru the engine compartment.
The upper deck on my boat was built with a double layer of 3/4 plywod from the bow to just aft of the escape hatch in the front cabin,and the last 18" of the upper deck(i.e. any thing with a radius). The rest of the deck was framed with 2x2's 8"oc. with 3/8 plwood. My problems were soft spots and rot in the framing. The last owner covered the deck with vinyl that had a seam that leaked. The deck got to hot so he carpeted over the vinyl, this compounded the problem, keeping it wet all the time. I replaced the rotted frame and replaced the 3/8 ply with 1/2 marine grade plywood,epoxyed all the plywood seams and coated the deck with Grizzly Grip in the fine texture. The deck is white with a no slip texture, it does't get hot, drains well and is comfortable to kneel or lay on.
I can send pics if you want.I did not take pics while I was working on it,but I have before and after.
Doug
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
Re: help with cargile cutter

doug. thanks for the boat load of info you sent. ha. i have my cutter wrapped up like a xmas package. every time i think about getting inside, it rains, blows and snows. got 2 in. today. wow, the tank goes from the fill plug all the way to the head. that must be 10 or 12 ft. my mind is spinning with all kinds of questions, like this, what's that hand pump sticking out of the floor of the head, shower compartment? i could load this whole page with questions. must stick to topic. the deck. i noticed that from the bow to the ladder it's 2 layers of 3/4 plywood. it has an alum. trim 1 1/2 in.wide with a rubber insert to cover screws. very factory looking. overkill in my book. way more weight than i want that high off the water. erick green, from past posts with me, thinks it might be a quick and easy repair and i tend to agree. all of it must come off. you got my attention, big time when you mentioned 1/2 plywood. how does deck feel? now that you are done with your deck, would you do it again with 1/2? i can save a bundle using 1/2 in. i can,t figure out how to make this thing start a new paragraph so i will ramble on. 2 by2 frame with 8in centers hugh? thats the best info. i,ve gotten yet. that means there must be a 2 in air gap beteen deck and cab celing. is that where they hide control cables and wiring? yes, send pics. dennis g.
 

76-cutter

Recruit
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
4
Re: help with cargile cutter

Dennis
I would do my deck the same way again.I have had as many as 12 people on it (some large) and it is great. I did beef up the frame when I had it apart. With the walk thru bow there is tons more room on the bridge.I built a fold down double lounge for sleeping or sunning on the bridge, for those hot nights on powell.
I sent you a private message with other info.
Doug
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
14
Re: help with cargile cutter

doug. this walk through bow sounds like it utilizes limited space and a great improvement. can't wait to see pics. checked my email and saw nothing there. please explain "sent me a message". went over to my sons place to make sure tarp was still doing its job. didn't have time to unrap. cutter looks good even wrapped up. dennis gustafson grand junction colo.
 

76-cutter

Recruit
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
4
Re: help with cargile cutter

Dennis
From this page click on your name,open profile and look for private message.
Doug
 

26'CUTTERKID

Recruit
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
1
Re: help with cargile cutter

Has anyone heard of a 26" Cargile cutter and where can you find more info on cargile cutters?
 

Pirate_king

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2019
Messages
10
Hi all, new to the forum and new owner of a 28’. Like Dennis I am sure going to have a lot of questions and hopefully I can find a lot of answers off his questions. Picked up a resto project for a whopping $300 dollars with trailer. Not sure yet if I got the better end of the deal lol
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Hi all, new to the forum and new owner of a 28’. Like Dennis I am sure going to have a lot of questions and hopefully I can find a lot of answers off his questions. Picked up a resto project for a whopping $300 dollars with trailer. Not sure yet if I got the better end of the deal lol

First thing is to read our rules. This thread died 7 years ago and we prefer they stay dormant, however if the OP ever returns he is free to update the thread and only the OP can re-open.

Closed
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top