Hooking Up Shift Linkage

[Bimmerknut]

For those who haven't seen my earlier posts this week on my 1988 Force 35HP motor, I've completely removed and disassembled the lower end and installed a new yoke, O-ring and seal kit and impeller.

I should have taken pic of the shift hex nut on the shift linkage before I removed the lower end from the motor. I'm about ready to bolt the lower end back up into the motor and after a lot of searching I'm not finding a lot about this. Before I begin, what position should the throttle be in? I've had it in neutral the whole time. Are there precheck steps I need to take before starting the motor to ensure the linkage is exactly where it needs to be?

If I could get some detailed instruction, that would be very much appreciated.

 

[wickware]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

I have always interpreted connecting the shifting rod as centering the coupling nut. Starting on the upper and lower threads at the same time to center the shift rod. I'm reading into this as having your gear selector and shift rod centered in neutral (or both in the same gear).

This worked for me on my 1970 35 HP Chrysler and it went into Forward & Reverse fine after starting in neutral. ?I?m Almost Sure Until I?m Asked?! Most of all and now I disconnect at the cotter pin that I can remove at the shift rod (with the leg open) with no re-adjusting. Initially I marker the leg to get back to this position (both attached).

Hopefully someone will confirm this info or I?ll spot check info in Clymer. Shift through the gears (N/F/R) while turning and feeling the prop by hand to confirm engagements as solid vs a grind or Etc.

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

Thanks Wick! I like the idea of marking the positions of the center of the hex tube prior to disconnecting. I'll remember that when I get this sorted out. For the first time though, it won't start. It sounds like its binding. It's NEVER done this before. I've had this lower end apart about 3 times now and this is the first time it won't start right up. I figure it's going to be hard to turn by hand because of the new impeller. I did put some grease behind it to give it an easy time rotatating. But I also read somewhere about the prop coupler bearing being tight. I don't get that. It's either on or it off ...right? I've been using a rubber mallet to sweet talk that coupler in. Often I have to take the couple back off and often times the bearing doesn't come out with it so I put the coupler back on an try again until they both come off as one piece. Now that the lower end is reattached to the motor, I wonder if I can do the fix without separating the upper and lower halves? I'm getting really frustrated with this. It's much simpler than my bimmer M10 engine and I can breeze right through that. Guess it's just because I have little experience with outboards.

What can you tell me about the bearing? The engine will turn a bit but it won't make a comple revolution.

Thanks!

 

[wickware]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

I have never had any of the issues you are mentioning (with binding, bearing, coupling, mallet use or etc). This could have something to do with the differences in years and models. I am not almost visualizing what could be happening due to replacing the impeller (which I could always rotate the motor/etc by hand easily). Except! Can you apply too pressure adjusting the coupling? I always allow some slack in adjustments when binding/wear can occur. Do you have a good link to a parts diagram that will show the parts involved?

I hope someone will respond soon that relate to what you are describing.

 

[emoney]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

Your 88 is different than my "last year" Chyrsler 50hp of course, but on my motor, you just need to make sure both halves are in the same gear. You should be able to put your lever in FWD and then manipulate the linkage on the LU to verify it's in FWD. To know, the prop should, by hand, turn clockwise. If it will only turn countr-clockwise it's in reverse or if it spins either way, it's in neutral. Sounds like it's definitely binding and I wouldn't try and start it until I fixed that issue. At least get it in neutral bfeore you attmpt it. Pulling up on the shift rod? (I can't remember if it's up or down, but one direction will work, lol) Then, match your control to whatever gear the LU is in.

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

With what you've said, I'll drain the lube out again. Then I'll take the coupler and bearing out and then reinstall the bearing by itself just until the ball in the shaft fits the groove in the bearing. Then, I'll install the coupler and without using the rubber mallet, I'll use the long screws to slowly pull the bearing into the case along with the coupler and see how that goes.

Thanks friend!

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

Your 88 is different than my "last year" Chyrsler 50hp of course, but on my motor, you just need to make sure both halves are in the same gear. You should be able to put your lever in FWD and then manipulate the linkage on the LU to verify it's in FWD. To know, the prop should, by hand, turn clockwise. If it will only turn countr-clockwise it's in reverse or if it spins either way, it's in neutral. Sounds like it's definitely binding and I wouldn't try and start it until I fixed that issue. At least get it in neutral bfeore you attmpt it. Pulling up on the shift rod? (I can't remember if it's up or down, but one direction will work, lol) Then, match your control to whatever gear the LU is in.

Thanks emoney. I did forget to mention that I think I got really lucky and it seems to shift with relative ease so I think I'm good there. I'm going to mark the location of the middle of the hex tube as Wick had mentioned earlier and then if it seems to work after I'm all done then I will mark all three locations on the shaft tube.

Thanks!

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

As of 8pm, I raised the motor while still on the boat after having the muffs on. I pulled the prop and the prop collar. I got the lube that came out. About a good cup worth. The I pulled the bearing out and separated it from the prop collar. I lined up the slot in the bearing race with the ball in the prop-shaft and just slid it on finger-tight. Then I took the prop collar and put it on just enough to get the bolts started and then let the bolts pull the collar the rest of the way in and tight. Put the prop on turned the motor over and it still hangs up. It won't complete a rotation. I don't get it. There should be no trick to this. Anyone????

 

[wickware]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

I looked over that you had been in the LU dealing with other issues. I tuned in only on connecting the shift rod. I have only been in a LU to replacing an impeller, bearing cage o-ring and prop seal vs yoke and etc.

I see my pervious message w/n posted. Now I see why you are mentioning bearings, yoke and draining LU oil. As I said above, I h/n been that deep into a LU. I?ll retire my entire Rig before getting more involved. I had 30 productive years fishing from boats (70s-2000s), 2000-2012 have very negative fishing and aging maintenance. I Have No Plans Of Shooting The Monster vs Finding Another Home .LOL

You might try a PM to Frank Acampora, I feel he has the most LU experience on this board. Good Luck!

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

I found the culprit to binding and overheating. The new impeller was not seated properly. At some point the tab slid out of the slot in the impeller and then the impeller itself rotated slightly. When I secured the driveshaft to the LU the tab on the shaft made its own partial indent in the impeller but only enough to cause binding and not enough to perform so it got hot quickly. So I pulled the LU, pulled the driveshaft out again. Reset the impeller correctly and the motor instantly roared to life and I ran it for at least 3 minutes with no heating issues. The selector rod is definitely not connected properly as there was no shifting. The prop seemed only to be in forward gear. No neutral or reverse, but the shifter did seems to slide with ease. Later I remembered that when I hooked up the linkage, I had the shifter in neutral but I pulled UP on the rod when I adjusted the hex to get the upper linkage matched with the hole in the upper linkage and insert the set screw without any binding or stress on the linkage as a whole. It got dark so I'll go back out tomorrow and readjust. I just PRAY that there isn't an issue between the new yoke and the prop-shaft. I do NOT want to have to tear it all down again. I've had the LU completely disassembled about 5 times already.

 

[Bimmerknut]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

Well this is just about it. I'm almost ready to give up and that is something I RARELY do! I readjusted the linkage and the shifter works easily in all positions but does not shift. When I first turn on the motor, the prop wasn't moving, so I put it into gear and the prop spun counter-clockwise. I put it into reverse and looked back again and the prop was still spinning counter-clockwise. The prop cannot be manipulated in either direction no matter what position the shifter is in. Before initially starting the motor up the prop moved both directions no matter where the shifter was. Any last ideas before I haul this into the shop and let someone else deal with it?

 

[acalabro]

Re: Hooking Up Shift Linkage

Did the shop get it taken care of for ya?
I am curious because I have a close model ~1989-90(unknown serial number) Force 50hp that I had to remove the lower unit to inspect the impeller. I made the nooby mistake of removing shift linkage coupler to drop the LU instead of the simple cotter pin. Luckily I was smart enough to take a picture of the coupler/lock nut position before disassembling but I am having an issue getting it back into the same exact position! I have very little experience in any mechanics and am wondering if there is a proper way to do this. The lower thread looks like its smaller. I just can't seem to get it to thread on to the exact same place.
Here's pics

I know the proper position is crucial to avoid damage to any gears. Is this the only part that needs to be in the correct position when reattaching at cotter pin? It goes (shifting pin in LU) connects to (lower shift rod via cotter pin) to (upper shifting rod via coupler nuts).