Re: How important is it to use "trailer tires"
Ok Guys
I have been Manufacturing Tyres for some 30+ years , so do feel somewhat knowledgable on Tyres..
Now you have several factors to choosing and using Tyres for trailer or Passenger applications .
1 is the load ie; the weight the tyre is going to carry . known as Load Carrying Capacity .
2. is the speed the tyre has been drum tested at its designed maximum load carrying capacity..
They are the 2 main parameters that any Tyre Manufacture needs and does address and gives this info on the sidewall of each tyre ..ie. on trucks in Europe they are marked 152/150 k and the suchlike . this equates as.
152= maximum load in single fitment ie; steer axle
150= maximum load in dual fitment ie; Twinned rear drives on trucks etc.
k = speed rating tested at at the above weight ie; k = 66mph
remember this is Europe truck specs i believe USA has its own markings..
So they go ahead and produce what they call the carcass ie; a steel wired rubber coated pressure vessel that would basically withstand the loads required at the planned speeds.
NOW Comes the compromise bit every manufacturer needs to face .
a; Legal requirement for the roads , NO tyre can be a slick etc etc ..
b; Its ability to disperse water for wet driving without having tread chunking etc, etc.
c; The tread can sustain none stop full load without break down of tread blocks, or severe over heat from excessive tread depths etc, etc..
NEXT Comes what is the Tyre to be used for and what differences does it make ?
1; Passenger car normal tarmac roads
2; Passenger 4x4 with on and off road
3; Trailer which can suffer overload but generally is what is classed a Free Rolling Tyre. (ie none powered driven )
So now you can start to see the fundamental compromises EVERY manufacture faces ?
1; The Passenger tyre this needs to brake in the wet dry at high or low speeds hence has a tread design which has GRIP..
2; The Passenger 4x4 tyre as well as meeting above needs Extra deep GRIP for rough terrain along with tougher sidewalls to put up with harsher operating conditions.
3; The Trailer tyre which NEEDS to retain straight line stability , allow for MORE sideways scrub as tandem trailers can suffer sideways drag when being turned tightly etc, also needs still to retain rigidity and disperse water .
PROBLEMS FOR TRAILERS !!
Now on the face of it and indeed LEGALLY at present so long as the Tyre selected is Free from cuts and tears exposing the Body and is of the correct Size and LOAD and Speed Capacity then it can be used on a Trailer ..
But lets add something else in the equation which often gets overlooked ..
On a trailer with the correct load carrying Tyre fitted to each side of the Trailer . The Tyre can so easily be overloaded when the trailer leans on a bend and the load is shifted from being equally split to one side or other etc ..
The Boat can also be far heavier when loaded with stuff for that long weekend fishing trips, and a full tank of fuel etc etc..that up to as much as 20% overload is regularly achieved ..
So what can you derive from this UK Big Pete post speeling on and on ?
SUMMARY and my own opinion !!
Well if you have a small lightweight dinghy and your only running a mile or 2 to your favourite water, then a standard budget Car tyre will be fine ..
BUT if you have a good sized boat and trailer , and you want the tyre to last and NOT blow out always select a Good Trailer Tyre and try if possible to go for a HIGHER load carrying Capacity than you need and not oh well that will just about do it..
After all you wouldn`t run your boat at Full throttle every day would you ?
Also a Tyre`s sidewall has NO relevance to its carrying capacity it is the Steel wires inside the rubber which determines its strength . the best Tyres in the world are Michelin and they have the thinnest rubber thicknesses
The biggest enemy of any Tyre is heat , Heat is generated by under pressures and or overloading !!!! so keep the tyre pressures right ..
Hope this helps on the issue
