how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

[Rotorfixer]

This is in addition to my other post "how to install a smartcraft system"

Here is the way to do so you ccan run it through tight spots. I highly recommend NOT CUTTING AND SPLICING THE CABLE. this WILL lead to problems down the road.

first pull the plastic conduit sheath down from the lower wire guide
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16420&stc=1&d=1218394582

then unsnap the sides of the wire guide and pull it down (this is so you can open it to get all the wires back into the connector) http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16422&stc=1&d=1218394669

then using a very small screwdriver or similar, using the small slots at either side of it, pry the purple cover off the end of the connector face
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16423&stc=1&d=1218394762

this is a good time to write down what color wire goes in what hole....
then using the same tool, disengage the little locks that hold the pins in place, then they can be pulled out through the back of the connector
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16424&stc=1&d=1218394903

proceed until all the wires and pins have been removed from the connector
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16425&stc=1&d=1218395022

run the harness as needed, then reassemble in reverse of these instructions, the wires and pins just push in and snap from the back, pretty simple.

Good luck.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Rotorfixer,
I run a 75 Opti w/a Big Tiller handle, and use a SmartCraft tachometer. The shortest Merc cable is a 20-footer, I've been thinking about buying one of the 10' versions, but I'll have to add the termination resisistor to at least one of the ends. Have you ever taken apart a cable w/the resistor built in, do you know the specs and which pins it goes across?
Thanks, HRG

 

[Rotorfixer]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Hello,

Sorry if this is too late. I have my email address in the other thread of mine "how to install a smartcraft system" I encourage people to use it if they would like my help as I don't usually check this forum daily.

So, first of all, there is a 10' harness with on ressistor available...
p/n 879981T10, you could have a junction box either in the engine cowl (I don't reccomend, you would need another 6' harness in the engine) or one at the tach (I reccomeond so you could expand the system)then you have one termination resistor cap on the box, one built in the cable. The cable should be @ $35US, the box about $40US and the ressistor (if you didnt keep it from your engine where the smartcraft cable connected) is @ $8US. So basicaly if you want to spend @ $50, you won't have the hastle of messing with the harness, also makes your system expandable. I am not sure if you are aware or interested in the features of the speedo ( I assume you have a open aluminum fishing boat?), but being able to put a level sender in your portable/ integral fuel tank, then adding either just a GPS antenna alone (just the antenna plugs into the speedo)or NMEA GPS unit to the system gives you GPS speed, GPS possition, Fuel to waypoint, Fuel range, Fuel economy etc. all quite handy for ocean fishing. Also if you added the paddle wheel sensor you could have super slow speed "troll control" based on water speed, gives auto throtlle for swells, or just trolling. All of these sensors are quite reasonable in price (ie: Paddle wheel and sea temperature sensor $62 US) I assume you probably know all of this but I thought I should throw it in, there is not alot of good info on these systems on the net!

If not I could ring out the terminator ressistor cap I removed from my engine to tell you what pins are involved.

Unless you can buy the crimp on pins I would not recommend splicing these cables, The CAN BUS is very resistance sensitive, and I would suspect you might run into problems, especially as I assume with a large tiller you are on the ocean (salt water corrosion).

Peter

 

[Rotorfixer]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

I have now subscribed to this thread so I will respond to your questions within 12 hours if not immediatly.

Peter.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thanks to Rotofixers directions on how to dis-assemble the connectors, I've decided to make some 10' "dual" resistor cables, since Mercury does not offer them that short, with termination resistors at both ends. This new cable will come in handy for us "tiller guys", who may only have a single monitor or SC1000 tach in the aft of the boat. Being the perfectionist I try to be, I've even added a piece of yellow heat shrink sleeving to indicate the presence of the resistor at the end.
HRG

 

[Rotorfixer]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

I assume you did actually solder those right? Looks like you did a great job!

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

I assume you did actually solder those right? Looks like you did a great job!

Yes, I did solder them. Thankfully, my soldering skills are better than my macro, up-close photography skills.
HRG

 

[briboat]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Do you know what sensor readouts will display on 2008 Mercury 115 4-stroke using the Sc1000 tachometer .Its confusing reading the Mercury website .Will it show oil pressure and oil temp or only engine water temp.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

I believe that you'll see oil Pressure, and engine (water) temp. I see no indication of oil temp at all in the SmartCraft tach manual. You may need to add an oil temp SmartLink gauge to see that function. I'd contact the SmartCraft "master" Don Weed at European Marine and ask him: Don@EuropeanMarine.org .

HRG

 

[briboat]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thank's for the quick reply.
Does anyone know the switching point for gps speed to display on speedomter if no other signal is being used? Waunder if worth buying the speedometer if not going to use paddle wheel or pitot sensor.
I do have hummind gps/fishfinder with speed nmea outputs ?

 

[Rotorfixer]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thank's for the quick reply.
Does anyone know the switching point for gps speed to display on speedomter if no other signal is being used? Waunder if worth buying the speedometer if not going to use paddle wheel or pitot sensor.
I do have hummind gps/fishfinder with speed nmea outputs ?

Hello,

If you have no other input it will always show only GPS speed, but you have to go into CAL1 or 2 and turn OFF the piot and paddle wheel inputs!!! If you have other inputs, like pitot you can also set what speed the GPS speed will take over at. So in other words, yes it can be used with no other inputs.


EDIT: You can use the humminbird NMEA wires to run the speedometer, I have a 798c SI unit and use it to drive my smartcraft system. It can be tricky, if you have problems, let us know !

Peter.

 

[FCKIEV]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thanks to Rotofixers directions on how to dis-assemble the connectors, I've decided to make some 10' "dual" resistor cables, since Mercury does not offer them that short, with termination resistors at both ends. This new cable will come in handy for us "tiller guys", who may only have a single monitor or SC1000 tach in the aft of the boat. Being the perfectionist I try to be, I've even added a piece of yellow heat shrink sleeving to indicate the presence of the resistor at the end.
HRG

What face value of the resistor used?

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

What face value of the resistor used?

I'll let you know this weekend, I'm on the road for work and don't have the specs with me.
HRG
it's a 120 ohm, 1/4 watt +-2% resistor, across the white & dark blue wires.

 

[Arcticcircle]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thanks to Rotofixers directions on how to dis-assemble the connectors, I've decided to make some 10' "dual" resistor cables, since Mercury does not offer them that short, with termination resistors at both ends. This new cable will come in handy for us "tiller guys", who may only have a single monitor or SC1000 tach in the aft of the boat. Being the perfectionist I try to be, I've even added a piece of yellow heat shrink sleeving to indicate the presence of the resistor at the end.
HRG

Does this apply to both ends? Need a dual resistor cable, but bought one without resistors on eBay - too expensive to send back to US from Sweden, so I like this option better....
/Hans

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

arcticcircle,
Yes, the termination resistor needs to be at both ends of the cable, so you'll have to do this modification twice.
HRG

 

[lastcal18]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Thank you Thank you Thank you...

I have the connector off.. in the morning I'll install everything....

I'm not installing the tach but just the troll control switch on my Lund 1600 Fury and Merc 40

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Who are you thanking? None of these members have been here in years except for one and it's been months for him. This thread is close to four years old. Pleases let sleeping threads lie.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

Who are you thanking? None of these members have been here in years except for one and it's been months for him. This thread is close to four years old. Pleases let sleeping threads lie.

GA_Boater,
Not sure what axe you've got to grind, but just because people aren't adding on to this thread doesn't mean that people aren't using the detailed information that Rotorfixer provided. I've sent many people here from other forums to get the information he took the time to post.

HRG

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector

You or any one can read it, no problem. Posting to it added nothing except dredge up a thread that is dead. You can refer people to the thread, but even you haven't posted to it since 2008. No axe, just rules we all agreed to when we joined.