How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

It's now been buffed once, twice, three times a ...well...you know..<br /> It just killed me stick that keel guard down the prettiest curve, then, to turn it back over hurt even worse.<br /> KeelGuard actually doesn't look all that bad through teary eyes. <br />All that hull work is hidden now, boat hull flipped and you can't see any of it....lol.<br /> Time for floor and some inside of hull modifications. The boat was "rigged" with the top cap off from the factory. Some of the factory designs make re-rigging with the top cap on practically impossible.<br /> EXAMPLE: you cannot get to the underside of the rear cleats to remove them with the top cap on the boat...same with some of the wiring, controls, etc. I'll be redsigning some of these designs to obtain access if ever needed.<br /> Few more pics later today.

 

[Realgun]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

So brownies can you come over and do my bottom . LOL<br /><br />Thats mighty fine work sahould give you a few MPH better in the water me thinks.

 

[glasply1]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Great pictures and results. You must not be getting in a big hurry. How did you straighten the hull? New frames or what?

 

[RubberFrog]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Originally posted by Realgun:<br /> So brownies can you come over and do my bottom .

You didn't by chance go to see Brokeback Mountain, did you?

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Shown here, floor removed, floatation foam removed. Time to put a floor back in it.<br />

 

[Realgun]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

You didn't by chance go to see Brokeback Mountain, did you?

Nope not into that kinky stuff. But if'n he was to do my bottom it might look as good as the top. LOL <br /><br />Thats one crazy good job there on the hull!<br />My hull bottom has seen better days but it floats.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

After carefull consideration based upon cost and past experiences, the floor material was chosen. <br />1/2" Outdoor plywood (like what you would use on the side of your house). It was much cheaper and lighter than the other options and would work well with what I "planned" to do to it prior to installation.<br />Other options were:<br />1. Marine Grade plywood. $85.00 sheet. This is blemish free and should be constructed with some type of water resistant glue. Overkill for a floor given my "plans".<br />2. Treated plywood. It's expensive, but, not $85.00 a sheet. It's also very heavy. In order to use this, it must be "aired out/dried" for awhile otherwise nothing will stick to it. The stuff comes out of the stack "almost" soaking wet with the weathering treatment. Again, given my "plans"...this would be unnecessary.<br /> Both of those just seemed be overkill for this project, and, "good enough for who it's for" is what I was looking for.<br /><br /> "plans": Cut to the size needed, trial fit, laminate both sides and edges with fiberglass. Once dry (a few hours later)....The stringers were capped with resin and cloth (glass) and while wet, each floor section was screwed into place. Once in place, chopped fiberglass (buy it in a can, we call it "kitty hair") was used to fill the gaps and smooth the transitions and any holes or openings there might be.<br /> Then a layer of glass was put over the installed floor.<br /> Next step will be to put some carpet down in certain areas (compartments and areas that are under the top cap). These would be a nightmare to carpet with the top cap installed. The rear inside of the hull will be painted. It will show when the bilge area lid is open.<br />

 

[lagoon bandit]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

your works looks real good I like they way you instald the floor...I will probly doing the same myself<br />Did you add any foam to the sub floor?

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

No foam was added. My thoughts on that are very clear (read some of the other topics in this forum).<br /> I feel the drawbacks of floatation outweigh the benefits on a boat that will be trailed at the end of most days on the lake. With LAKE being one of the important factors there.<br /> I'd probably snack on floatation foam if I spent my days on BIG water miles offshore,but, this is a bass boat and wasn't designed for that.<br /><br /> ONE exception: The underside outer edge of the topcap will be "full" of foam though. I use the stuff to hold tubes in place for wiring and cables to run through. The only way it can get wet is via splashing water up on the underside of it. (which, WILL happen...foam will get wet). But, the underside is open to air flow all the way around. Airlfow and gravity will keep it from holding water and staying saturated.<br /> Structural support is not a concern. Sound deadening probably not enough a person would ever notice. Floatation ability probably not enough to keep this boat from going to the bottom. Ability to hold "tubes" under the edges of the boat without drilling holes or using screws...YES.<br /><br /> IF you feel the need to install floatation foam, use the spray in stuff and drill holes in the floor. Spray it in through these holes prior to the last layer of fiberglass over the floor.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Floatation foam: Most of my boat resurecting experience has been on bass boats, smaller run-abouts. Performance and Speed may be more of a concern than actually "floating"..lol.<br /> While performance has never been pushed to the extreme limit that I'm aware of on any of my projects, any cheap way to gain a few mph during restoration is usually considered.<br /> I've never taken anything newer than a 99 model apart though. I've NEVER seen underfloor floatation foam that was not wet either. ALL I've seen were holding water...maybe not "soaking/saturated", but, holding enough that they were already or would soon be causing problems.<br /> <br /> My current boat runs about 65mph with me. Add a 180lb passenger and it looses 5mph.<br /> I took over 350lbs of saturated and dry foam out of this current project boat (not counting the wet floorboard wood). <br /> For this type of boat, I feel I've added at least a 5mph potential, an acceleration improvement, and....an improvement that won't go away over the years due to imminent water saturation weight.<br /><br /> Floatating foam is not a bad thing. It's just not something that is needed in the type of boats I've messed with so far.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Keep posting the pics, what a great step-by-step photo journey you are providing. Great inspiration for all concerned. I painted a 16' 1965 model Arrow Glass boat some 10 years ago with a NAPA paint. I sold the boat to a good friend who still uses it today, it still looks good today. Can't wait to see the project as it comes together.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

question for you - how much resin are you using, which type - epoxy or polyester, and do you have a good source for this product?

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Doing lots of upper deck (top cap) remodeling as well. Probably about 10 gallons of resin once all is said and done.<br />(I've used about 6 gallons prior to starting on the top cap).<br />polyester resin.<br />I get this stuff in five gallon cans. I'm not exactly sure what brand it is though.<br />I purchase it at a boat manufacturing plant. They fill the 5gal jug from a 55 gallon barrel.<br />They charge $1.85/lb.<br />Large scales. Resin, glass mat, hardner, "anything"....goes on the scale and it's $1.85/lb.<br /><br />Three boat companies within a 5 mile radius and that's how they all charge for their supplies. <br /><br />I thought this might have something to do with all of these boat company owners learning from the same source. There's no doubt the owners of most of these boat plants used to work at the oldest plant at one time before "striking out on their own".<br /> BUT, I've heard that "cost by the lb" is more universal than one would think.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Something else to think about.....<br />When deciding/shopping for supplies. There are SO MANY types, brands, claims, opinions, etc and it never ends.<br />Just figuring out what to buy, where to buy it, and then wondering if you made the right choice can be OVERWHELMING.<br /><br />The nice thing about going to a boat manufacturer to buy your supplies.....just be nice, tell them what you are doing, and play dumb. Just ask them what you need, Don't question them, Take what they give you...and maybe on the third time back (once they get to know you) you can ask a few other questions.<br /> As far as the first few purchases...Well, you may not know exactly what you are getting, BUT, You will know that it's going to be the right stuff to build a boat.<br /> It really takes alot of the confusion out of it.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

well - central new york doesnt have any boat manufacturers, Penn Yann isnt here any more. you are a lucky guy, i went to west marine yesterday and it is $30 for a gallon! of polyester resin. $79 for a gallon of epoxy resin, guess who will not be using epoxy!<br />thanks for the info.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

<br />

<br /> Re-design deck. The floor went way up front in the middle, had a step and then the front deck started right behind the front casting seat with one compartment lid in the middle that opened up to a huge area underneath.<br /> The first idea was to make the casting deck larger and move the "step" back. This was mocked up, but, not much leg room. Which meant, not much floor room for tackle boxes, legs, etc.<br /> New plan to removed the step completely. Bring the casting deck back to the front of the console, build two support walls underneath which "creates" compartment walls, and add a hatch. (that has now been "roughed in"). see above.<br /><br />

<br />Re design of console is next to match the new gauge panel/dash face. Built a wooden template that the back side of this dash face would slide over. Lots of glass work is next to make it look correct. Can't go any further here until the windshield arives. I need that for a pattern. Was going to use a motorcycle windshield, but, those are pretty flimsy compared to most boat plexiglass windscreens.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Note on floor "area": There was almost a mistake made by trying to move the step back and "keep" it. While many bass boats are set up with very little floor area, I've found that on most performance bass boats, "if it's loose, it will fly out". <br />By eliminating the "step" and leaving an opening under the new extended deck area, this seemed to be "thoughtful" idea.<br />Legroom, and tackle boxes, etc. can easily be slid under...out of the way....easy access....and they won't fly out at speed.<br /> Which is something to consider because if it's up top and not fastened...it'll fly out.<br /><br /> Sorry for those of you wanting to see this boat project come along day by day. I'm back on it now though. It had to be set aside for a couple of weeks so I could finish up another disaster.<br />

<br /> Back on boat project now though. I'll upload a photo or two each week of progress.

 

[brownies]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Top cap was on the boat...doing some redesigning / adding more front casting deck area.<br />Cut through the front deck surface glass in order to recess the seat pedestal mounting base...found wet/rotten wood. Sort of suprised my being on an upper encased deck.<br />So, took the top cap back off, flipped it upside down so I could remove the deck wood and glass new back in.<br /><br />Lesson: <br />How does VIP construct a front casting deck on thier stealth model bass boats?<br />They throw whatever scrap chunks of plywood that they have laying around down there and glass over them. Seems as long as the scrap pieces are less than 6"x6" it's used.<br />I don't know how they make their other boats, but, usually one model is a good indication of the rest.<br />This has got to be the shoddiest manufacture job of any boat I've been into yet.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

Brownies, earlier in the thread, you mentioned incompatible products. I just refurbished a fiberglass clamshell on a Mariner. I spent a lot of time smoothing it out, did a custom paint-job blocking out the Mariner logo; it really looked good. I topcoated (after extensive prep scuffing, cleaning) with an alaphatic urethane. It looked like glass after I sprayed it. I went back out a couple of hour later to see how it was looking, it was still very wet, and it looked like it had broken out in hives, kind of a bumpy orange-peel look. I have started sanding it out smooth, the stuff is very tough and sanding is going slow. Any ideas what happened? Should I use the same clearcoat since it should be compatible with itself, or should I use something else altogether?

 

[Speedwagon]

Re: How to, or, How not to Restore a boat.

So why'd you go with 1/2" ply, as opposed to 5/8 or 3/4"?