Re: hydro foil
back to this.
The result of using a foil and raising the motor can be better a hole shot and faster planing. This is because as you raise the motor it has less leverage on the hull, resulting in less bow rise. You will also have less ventilation, so instead of the prop being surrounded by a mix of air and water, it’s only water, for a much better bite. The foil just stops the prop from sucking air from the surface. (This is really its only function.)
Lower planning speed from less bow rise is from less leverage. This is also an area where the foil dragging in the water will (may) supply some lift too, but this is a side affect. If you need the foil dragging in the water to make improvements you want, then you don’t need a foil, you need tabs.
Less Porpoising is for the same reason, less bow lift because of less leverage. The foil shouldn’t be in the water now though.
Better top speed and MPG. This is from the motor being higher and having less gear case in the water, resulting in less drag. Should be good for a couple of hundred RPM.
The problem with foils is that they really can only be fine tuned when used on an outboard, and then only if the setup can make use of one. On an I/O you can only bolt it on and hope for the best. If it helps in few areas and the possible negative side affects can be lived with, then it may work OK for you. Most buyers just pull it out of the package and bolt it on with none of the other work involved to set it up correctly. This results in all the negative comments and opinions out there.
The best set up is a hydraulic jack plate and a good selection of stainless props. This way it can be set for the best holeshot, low speed planing, then fine tuned for the best speed and handling with the current load and water conditions.