Idle speed set on '62 Lark

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

I'm in the process of static carb setting/sync. The relation of the index mark on the cam plate to the pointer to initial throttle movement was surprisingly spot on. absolutely no reason to adjust. What I'm not sure about is the means to adjust the idle speed. Is this done totally with the throttle cable adjuster? No positive stop is strange to me. The Type II carb's throttle lever has a small nylon disk with an off center linkage hole. It is sandwiched between the lever and a plate with a small screw. It looks as though this can be loosened and rotated to adjust throttle plate opening (speed). Should idle speed be established before synchronization?
Please note I'm talking about idle speed setting and not idle mixture. I have a good grasp of that.

Question about point setting accurately without the pointer tool coming soon.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Believe I have it solved. Thank's to a few pages from the manual of the exact model I've got that one of you kind folks supplied. I found the eccentric i the carb lever does set the datum point and the positive stop is done with the cable box control. These little details to get just right are very fiddly, along with where all the hoses and wires are supposed to get routed and secured to the block. I can't count how many fasteners have had to be taken out because I found a wire or hose that was supposed to be secured under it. Should have taken notes. - Pete

 

[jimmbo]

You do not set the idle speed by adjusting anything near the carb, or the carb linkage. Idle speed is set strictly by how far retarded the spark is. It might require that the throttle cable be adjusted for length to fit after the idle speed is set.

For some oddball reason, Evinrude in 1962 had two Larks, one electric shift, the other mechanical shift. You will have to refresh my memory as to which you have.
If I recall, on our 63 40hp electramatic, the idle speed adjustment was strictly adjusting the throttle cable length.

A mechanical shift would have an idle stop screw on the port side of the engine bracket near the throttle lever

 

[boobie]

Edit......

 

[F_R]

1962 Evinrude Selectric shift idle speed is a knob on the front of the remote control. Johnson Electramatic is a screw seen through a slot near the red warm-up lever in the remote control.

EDIT: Yep, the idle speed for manual shift (both brands) is a screw/knob sticking out the top of the steering bracket, just aft of the little emergency throttle lever doo-hickey on the motor (technical term).

 

[jimmbo]

Pre 1964 Johnson electramatic control boxes did not have the idle speed adjustment hole by the red warmup lever.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Great, you have all confirmed what I had deduced and hoped was the case. This is indeed a Selectric Shift and though the Seloc manual covers a lot of motors that ain't like mine, good info is in it but not always where you think it may be. It does not cover the eccentric in the carb lever but it does show a drawing of this, which is what I've got. Finally, after scratching my head for half a day a light bulb lit and I went out to look at the Cadillac's controls... Bingo! - Pete

 

[jimmbo]

That eccentric on the carb lever is for taking out any slack in the linkage to the cam follower, it is like a primary pickup timing adjustment. The carb should still be completely closed when that slack is taken out

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

Perfect jimmbo. That is exactly how it is with the existing adjustments. The throttle plate is shut and the carb lever just starts to twitch as the scribe mark on the cam plate passes the pointer as the throttle is opened. I'm guessing once the controls are connected, the throttle plate will open a bit and I will adjust speed with there. Next will be points & condensers. I have to read up a bit on correct setting for optimum timing. Racerone said in a post a couple of years back the the tool was the best and most accurate way to accomplish this but of course I don't have one and so far I've struck out on ebay. A new one is $47.50 and for a one or two time use a bit extravagant. There is a marina about an hour away that has sold and service Evinrudes forever and they still have some OEM parts and books, maybe tools too. I 'll see if I can beg one from them. I want to be as accurate as possible with this. I used to work on and tune motorcycles and know that no matter how well an engine is built, the last little bit of attention to detail is what makes a great runner rather than a "like all the others". - Pete

 

[jimmbo]

There is a hole in the flywheel that is quite accurate for setting points. New points can be set using a feeler gauge(round is best), used points are best set using the timing fixture. In the 70s, I set the points on the old mans 35, once with the points located in the flywheel hole, later with the fixture. there was no difference in performance(maybe I was lucky). Again I will stress that the idle speed is determined by the retardation of the spark, not by any adjustment to the carb throttle plate. It needs to be closed at idle. Make sure to check adjust the Fuel-Saver linkage as per the service manual, it is what moves the carb to WOT after full timing advance is achived

 

[lindy46]

I've always set points using a feeler gauge and that has always been adequate. For most accurate results, set with the flywheel off, and place the rub block of the points at the high spot on the cam., usually where it aligns with the flywheel key. Rock the magneto plate back and forth slightly until the points are at their maximum opening. Then set to .020" and securely tighten the locking screw on the points. Works for me.

 

[racerone]

???----The timing fixture is nothing but a " dummy flywheel "------You can use your flywheel to set the points with the meter.-----Just needs a bit more time as the timing tool is a shop / factory time saver !

 

[Crosbyman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

There is a hole in the flywheel that is quite accurate for setting points. New points can be set using a feeler gauge(round is best), used points are best set using the timing fixture. In the 70s, I set the points on the old mans 35, once with the points located in the flywheel hole, later with the fixture. there was no difference in performance(maybe I was lucky). Again I will stress that the idle speed is determined by the retardation of the spark, not by any adjustment to the carb throttle plate. It needs to be closed at idle. Make sure to check adjust the Fuel-Saver linkage as per the service manual, it is what moves the carb to WOT after full timing advance is achived

There is no access hole in my motor's flywheel. There is an outline of one but it was never cut out. This '62 has a number of oddities.

I see the carburetor throttle plate does not totally shut off the venturi. There is a cut at the bottom. Is this what determines idle when the plate is shut down? As I mentioned, with the cam scribe and pointer aligned the carb is shut. A tick more throttle starts to open the carb as well as advance the timing. This is correcto?

Fuel-Saver. I see what it does but I'm having difficulty finding adjustment notes. Seloc has various photos where it is shown but no mention of what it does or it's adjustment. I don't have a factory manual in paper, but I do have a PDF version. The info is most likely in there, just a bit harder to find and extract. Nothing will ever replace a paper manual that has pages that can be flipped back and forth.

Crosbyman, thank's for that link, nothing like good old "show and tell".

 

[racerone]

The timing at idle controls idle RPM !!------You ask why is there a cutout on the throttle plate ?------You must realize that a 2 stroke still needs a certain quantity of fuel to go through it because that is how the engine gets the lubricating oil it needs !!----You can NOT cut fuel supply to control idle speed.----Before you ask , using a meter to set point gap can be done at full throttle or idle , it does not matter !---Just lock the magplate to adjust the points and use your timing marks on the flywheel.----You lift the flywheel off to make the adjustment.----That video shows extra wires used by the poster but I just use the ground wire for the coil.---When you understand , the concept is simple.

 

[F_R]

The fuel saver actually is quite simple, but a lot of people manage to screw it up anyway. To put it as simple as I can, the fuel saver should do nothing at all at part throttle. The carb butterfly is controlled entirely by the cam and roller, actuated by the cam on the bottom of the mag plate. As you advance the throttle control, the mag plate rotates until it bangs up against the projection on top of the cylinder block. At that point, it is at full spark advance---as far as it can go. Up until now, the fuel saver rod hasn't done a thing. But contact has just barely been made with the setscrew barrel on the fuel saver rod.

Continued throttle control movement now pushes on the fuel saver rod and opens the carb butterfly to wide-open position.

The only adjustment is to slide the setscrew barrel fore or aft on the rod till it is barely ready to start being pushed at the moment the mag/spark reaches full advance position. Tighten the setscrew at that position and forget you ever saw it.

 

[Cadillac-ack-ack]

The explanation of the throttle plate cut makes sense. There are no timing marks on this motor's flywheel !!--- How does one LOCK the magplate? I understand the concept exactly, the execution is different from what I'm familiar with. I get perfectly, why setting point gap can happen anywhere within magplate rotation. I know my ass from my elbow. - Pete

 

[F_R]

I can guarantee you that the flywheel has timing marks. Having said that, let me also say you can make that job as difficult as you want to. I confess, I'm the guy that made those timing fixtures for a number of years, and they are a great aid in doing the job quickly and accurately. And yes you can use the flywheel, which in my opinion is not easy or worth it--but it can be done. If it comes down to that, I'd advise just use a feeler gauge and call it good enough. Or spring for the timing fixture, your choice.

I guess you know that Richard at www.richardsoutboardtools.com now makes the timing fixtures. I don't have a dog in the fight.

 

[Crosbyman]

my 2 bits,

I've done the Top of cam lobe and points at .020.... worked ok $ = 0
I've done the VOM flywheel on with timing marks thing on UTube .... worked ok $$ = cost of VOM $10 +
I've done the FR/ RW tool and VOM without the flywheel .................worked ok $$$= cost of VOM + Tool cost $40 ...

I splurged and went FR/RW tool & VOM and from now on it is what i'll use but all 3 methods work ok


RW please send my fee in US dollars :lol::focus:

 

[racerone]

Not sure why you would say that your flywheel does not have timing marks !!----Sad when you can not accept sound advice !