Ignition Switch Wiring

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Okay, I switched the two wires...no dice. I'm about to go out and check the voltages, I'll post the results when I'm done.

Edit: Okay here are the voltages:

(off) Batt 12.3 Start 0.0 Acc 0.0

(on) Batt 12.3 Start 0.0 Acc 12.3

(crank) Batt 9.8 Start 9.8 Acc 0.5


This is with the new switch.

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Ok. That explain why the motor is not running. You don't have ignition voltage. Try this. Run a wire from the batt connector to the ignition connector in order to ridge them together. Do not remove the original cables. Leave enough slack so you can cut that new cable. Try to start the motor. If the motor starts the only way to turn it off will be to:
1 cut that wire bridging the battery terminal and the ignition terminal.
2 switch the ignition switch to off.

 

[flargin]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Have you had your battery checked? You may want to run the same test, but check the voltages at the battery at the time you go from acc to Run.


if it dropped to 9.8v without any major draw, where Nandy is going, have some loose connection/corroded connection. you may also just have a dead battery. If you get the same 9.8v on start at the batteries, I would run a full charge (overnight) and try again.

Nandy is right though, there is something wrong when your acc goes to 0 when you start...

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

I have to agree that his voltage is low. However the motor should start with that voltage. That low voltage should be investigated once we got this starting issue resolved. Sounds like a dirty connection at the batt.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Ok. That explain why the motor is not running. You don't have ignition voltage. Try this. Run a wire from the batt connector to the ignition connector in order to ridge them together. Do not remove the original cables. Leave enough slack so you can cut that new cable. Try to start the motor. If the motor starts the only way to turn it off will be to:
1 cut that wire bridging the battery terminal and the ignition terminal.
2 switch the ignition switch to off.

The batt and ignition posts on the ignition switch? or where? Also, I think the battery has to be okay if it starts just fine with the old switch in, right?

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Yes, at the ignition switch. What I think is happening is that your 12v for the ignition are not there when you crank it so we will be feeding it using the batt terminal. If it starts is definitely proof that is our problem. Then if it start you should be able to cut that jumper off. The motor will stay running then you can switch the ignition switch to off.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Okay, that makes sense. But then, what would be the next step if that works?

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

If that works then either your switch is not the right for your motor or it is defective. I would call sierra then to make sure if that is the correct replacement.
Most motors don't even need a battery to run. But in your case that don't seems to be the case. My book don't cover your motor so I can't tell you much.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Okay, that makes sense. Now I can move on to the next problem.


Not to go OT here, but if you have to squeeze the primer bulb to keep the motor running, and it still won't get over a third of the way to max rpms...that's fuel delivery, right?

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

yes, we call it fuel starvation. There is a leak somewhere in the system and the system is sucking air instead of fuel. When you squeeze the primer bulb you aid the pump, which will lead me to believe the leak is between the bulb and the motor. Disconnect the gas connector to the motor and squeze away, if the gas leaks out, air can leak in during normal motor operations. If no gas leaks out then it could be that the problem is between the motor connector and the carbs. Do the same test. Be careful that if your float and needle are not working right you might flood the motor.
If you were saying that the tank or the bulb where collapsing together I would say there is a vent that need to be open.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Yeah, I've tried it with the vent open and closed...doesn't really make a difference. I'll try to squeeze test. I almost just said screw it and replaced the fuel pump, but I figured that's a chunk of change I might not need to spend.

By the way, thanks for all the help man. You've been great.

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

no problem, we all came here for help and like to return the help. Hope the switch trouble can be resolved.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

I've just gone back to starting it with a screwdriver for now, until I could get her running right. The marina where I go for my parts is pretty small, so it's very likely it's just not the right switch. I didn't think there were different kinds, but you learn something new everyday.

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

That is good. Before you try the old switch again check the voltages wiht the old one. Just so we are sure. Like I say, a lot of motor does not need battery voltage to start as they are self sustained. The battery is pretty much just to operate the starter. Having said that... some motors charging system will not tolerate not having a battery load and can be damaged by being run without the battery...
I wish you good luck

 

[Rodneys]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

If you think you have the ignition switch wired the right way, I'll bet you the cut-off switch is bad under the flywheel. I have 2 of these motors and that what i figured out on mine.

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Here at iboats we appreciate everyone pitching in to help a fellow boater. However, it is imperative that the entire thread is read. He can start his motor with no problems with the old switch. A cut off switch anywhere in the rig don't care if he is using a new switch or not.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Sorry, I've been away with a new job. But the latest word is that it still only starts with the old one, and I just rebuilt the fuel pump to see if that would solve my throttle issue. Think I'm gonna try to get it out to the lake today and see what happens.

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Okay. So I'm officially baffled.

I used RTV to remake all the gaskets in the fuel pump and put new hose clamps on all the fuel lines...and somehow it made it worse. Before it was getting a little fuel, now it's getting none. What am I missing?

 

[Nandy]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

Honestly, if it were me that last thing I would touch would be the gas pump. If I do I would use oem parts for it. I would remove that rtv gasket and put the pump back the way it was. Try it now that u have secured the hoses. Did you ever saw a leak when priming the bulb?

 

[speshulldroo]

Re: Ignition Switch Wiring

I left the factory gaskets in. But the only time I ever saw a leak was out the fuel pump. I then took it apart and re-tightened everything without touching the gaskets. It quit leaking, but it still didn't run worth a damn. I tried unplugging the gas hookup on the engine, that side of the line is fine. Nothing looks visually bad. I'm assuming it's gas because pumping the primer bulb helped. Is it possible that it could be spark? When it doesn't start the prop is leaving a huge amount of gas/oil in it's wake. So it's gotta be getting some...