Zero Balance
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2007
- Messages
- 152
Re: Impact of adding a subwoofer
I run a high wattage amp, actually two with a max rated output of 1400 watts. Now thats a rated output. I probably get more like about 600 watts total and thats turned up full output or 100% volume, ok 75% with sensitivies set. With my sensitivity set properly I get minimal distortion thats not noticeable to the human ear.
I like music while I'm out trolling/boating. Theres an on off switch with a volume control that gives me choices. Some times my choice is loud sometimes not. I always consider others. Also, I catch just as many fish with or without my music and there are times its not playing. It really depends on my mood. The thing is, I like it. Due to this I'll have a stereo that will produce the sound I'm looking for and more. Yep, that includes subs. Not for the boom boom boom but because my 6x9s arent designed to put out so much bass when my tunes are cranked up. Thats a job for the subs.
For the original poster here is necessary information that will help you to determine how much amperage your setup will use and with this information you can decide what size battery will be appropriate. Not that it will help. a second battery that only allows you to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. But, remember that any system playing at one-third volume is drawing considerably less current than the same system at three-quarter volume, and may not need a charging system upgrade if the volume levels are kept reasonable.
If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it starts to grab current from the battery ? not a good thing for your electronics or your music! A switch comes in handy here.
Your boats alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your boats system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.
To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps).
Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.
A quick way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.
Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.
If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system.
If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to consider having your alternator rebuilt for higher output ? or invest in a high-output aftermarket alternator.
I run a high wattage amp, actually two with a max rated output of 1400 watts. Now thats a rated output. I probably get more like about 600 watts total and thats turned up full output or 100% volume, ok 75% with sensitivies set. With my sensitivity set properly I get minimal distortion thats not noticeable to the human ear.
I like music while I'm out trolling/boating. Theres an on off switch with a volume control that gives me choices. Some times my choice is loud sometimes not. I always consider others. Also, I catch just as many fish with or without my music and there are times its not playing. It really depends on my mood. The thing is, I like it. Due to this I'll have a stereo that will produce the sound I'm looking for and more. Yep, that includes subs. Not for the boom boom boom but because my 6x9s arent designed to put out so much bass when my tunes are cranked up. Thats a job for the subs.
For the original poster here is necessary information that will help you to determine how much amperage your setup will use and with this information you can decide what size battery will be appropriate. Not that it will help. a second battery that only allows you to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. But, remember that any system playing at one-third volume is drawing considerably less current than the same system at three-quarter volume, and may not need a charging system upgrade if the volume levels are kept reasonable.
If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it starts to grab current from the battery ? not a good thing for your electronics or your music! A switch comes in handy here.
Your boats alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your boats system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.
To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps).
Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.
A quick way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.
Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.
If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system.
If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to consider having your alternator rebuilt for higher output ? or invest in a high-output aftermarket alternator.
