Inboard outboard air cooled engine

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey Scaaty, I'd love to hang out around you, but you're on the left coast, you sound like Jesse James's Dad?! The cantankerous old mechanical genius! .

I don't care much for JJ's attitude, but I'll tell ya one thing, the kid can SURE bend metal...he IS good!

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Leg fighting the rudder, hadn,t thought of that!

I could take off a little bit of the skeg ..

Ignore it...it will be fine...prop thrust has more more potential than the skeg ever will on straight line push, and the prop wash hits the tiller, just like any inboard..yer fine

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OK, just went through all the posts, so up to speed.

The only way I would run the exhaust in the water, would be to "tee" in a muffler just as it goes over the transom. Some muffled noise there, some out the water. It hiccups, it would suck air before water. Might even sound neat too!

Oil drain is fine.

Need to think up a cheap easy rudder/tiller setup.
Rest looks pretty well workable so far!

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Couple more early pix. First maybe when I was 12/13
I came up with a weird drive on that.
The motor was mounted on a hinge. See the loose belt? Theres a helper spring under the seat (leg hiding it) that helped pull it up for tension. Clutch lever and cable would pull it up, and off ya go. Throttle mounted on the center frame tube. Worked! (and close inspection reveals the "horn". Squeeze Bulb type..ya stepped on the bulb with the left foot!
Second my old 57/58 650 Triumph, 1967. This pic has the new 8 inch over fork tubes. In the basement over winter. Summer before I had the bright idea of extending the forks far as possible, then put muffler clamps on the tubes. Solid front end. Looked cool, even had a piece of pipe for "drag bars".
I'll end this post by saying it was a VERY bad idea.....reason for new fork tubes!
Oh yeah, I also have a restored 1976 Honda Minitrail 70. Fun little scoot..and have made room in the casket for it on one side, and one of my 3hp "Weedless" Johnnys on the other. Don't know where I'm heading in the "hereafter", but I'm bringing a bike and an outboard!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Did you say drag boat? I want to build one of those so bad I can't stand it, neither can my wallet!
Looks like you've been busy with all those projects over the years. My projects are simple and easy on the wallet, that way I get to do more of them and the wife doesn't complain.

Spent most of the evening drilling cutting and grinding on the angle bracket, cut a notch out so I will have access to the coupling for tightning and drilled and filed out a hole for the shift rod to come up thru. Spent the rest of the evening wondering how in the world I'm going to make this shifter work, it's right square in the middle of the engine box and shifts a little hard so gonna have to give some thought to this one, this may take awhile, I know what I want to do, just have to figure out how to do it! Here's a couple of pictures of what I have so far. I plan to come thru the side of the box with a stick shift with a knob if possible. Need to figure out a way to use an L shaped shift and make it rock back and forth to change gears, could weld a sleeve across it where it meets the box and mount a bracket with a bolt thru it, but welding isn't in the budget. Gonna have to figure out how to accomplish the same with some type of bolt on bracket.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey Maxum, Just a suggestion for some proposed tiller hardware. It can be found in the plumbing section at Home Depot, Loew's, or Ace hardware. I figure 3/4" Galv. pipe sections for the tiller, with a split ring hanger, assembly as in my drawing, one top, & bottom, with a pipe coupling added to the tiller rod (for a larger diameter fitting) above the top split ring for support (to rest it on). The reason I say 3/4" pipe, is so that you can cut a groove down the middle at the bottom, & slip your rudder in between, then bolt it thru for strength. Another way you could make this is by using 1" IPS pipe tee's, fastened to the transom with 1" pipe flanges, then slip the 3/4" IPS tiller shaft, into, & thru the oversize pipe tee's. Check out my sketch, sorry it's so rough, By the way, are you planning to shift the lower unit between, forward- neutral- reverse, or is it locked in forward?

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Did you say drag boat? I want to build one of those so bad I can't stand it, neither can my wallet!
Looks like you've been busy with all those projects over the years. My projects are simple and easy on the wallet, that way I get to do more of them and the wife doesn't complain.

Spent most of the evening drilling cutting and grinding on the angle bracket, cut a notch out so I will have access to the coupling for tightning and drilled and filed out a hole for the shift rod to come up thru. Spent the rest of the evening wondering how in the world I'm going to make this shifter work, it's right square in the middle of the engine box and shifts a little hard so gonna have to give some thought to this one, this may take awhile, I know what I want to do, just have to figure out how to do it! Here's a couple of pictures of what I have so far. I plan to come thru the side of the box with a stick shift with a knob if possible. Need to figure out a way to use an L shaped shift and make it rock back and forth to change gears, could weld a sleeve across it where it meets the box and mount a bracket with a bolt thru it, but welding isn't in the budget. Gonna have to figure out how to accomplish the same with some type of bolt on bracket.

Hmmmm! Can we connect a lever from the shift rod to the right side of pic (away from muff system) drill a hole in angle iron for a pivot point and out through the Side of the box? and connect shift lever there? The position of the pivot point will regulate how hard the shift rod is to pull. Then run another lever from there forward to where you sit and give it a pivot point also. Much like a differential lock on some J Deer tractors and 4x4's. Only there's is a peddle instead of a pull up push down lever.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Don't fret too much about the hard shifting, it should get easier once the engine runs, and easier still, when it gets warmed up.

For the shift assembly, How about an eyebolt(#1) coming off the top of the shift shaft, then another long eyebolt(#2) lying flat against it (married to it), with a short shoulder bolt, & nut, holding the 2 together, then the long rod end of the long eyebolt (#2), facing the transom, going thru the eye, of another long eyebolt(#3) facing straight up, to be strategically fastened solid to the angle iron, (as a fulcrum point), then shifting by moving the end of the long eyebolt(#2) up, & down.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Check this.
Drill out the wood for jamming two nuts in. The side to side movement (threaded rod) will be minimal. Threaded rod (store $3). Washers both sides, then double nut.
Need a lever and eye bolt (you need to also grind a relief radius in the threads, similar to the same as the shift rod, for the coupler bolts ..clamping alone not enough)
Outside lever/shift, flat piece..drill smaller, file or grind "flats"..think similar winch handles on boats (fact, that would make a good shifter!)
Your only problem is locking the shift (middle) lever to the threaded rod. (heres were a 2 second weld would work, but maybe a drill and pin, then nuts). On lever lenght, I would say only maybe 2-3 inches tops. You would need to figure movement, and force required
Then slip it in, tighten in the wood the side nuts with some goop to hold..
Inprovement ideas welcome!

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maybe I'm wrong, But I thought the shift rod in L U pulled up and pushed down. Instead of twisting.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Check this.
Drill out the wood for jamming two nuts in. The side to side movement (threaded rod) will be minimal. Threaded rod (store $3). Washers both sides, then double nut.
Need a lever and eye bolt (you need to also grind a relief radius in the threads, similar to the same as the shift rod, for the coupler bolts ..clamping alone not enough)
Outside lever/shift, flat piece..drill smaller, file or grind "flats"..think similar winch handles on boats (fact, that would make a good shifter!)
Your only problem is locking the shift (middle) lever to the threaded rod. (heres were a 2 second weld would work, but maybe a drill and pin, then nuts). On lever lenght, I would say only maybe 2-3 inches tops. You would need to figure movement, and force required
Then slip it in, tighten in the wood the side nuts with some goop to hold..
Inprovement ideas welcome!

Ya got a good idea, but I think the shift shaft has to go up, & down,,, I was thinking an eyebolt to replace the upper bolt on the shift shaft clamp, then a rod back to the angle iron with a fulcrum point there, so as to cantilever the shift shaft up, & down, then work from there, to bring the linkage to the left or right side of the boat (whichever works) then bring it forward.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Wait I have a proposed partial plan for the shifter, First, put a good solid eyebolt directly off the top of the shift lever, maybe (a 3/8" one) then going directly towards the port side, put a Rod Coupling on top of the drive mounting bolt (it looks like a 3/8" bolt) hence a 3/8" rod coupling, then put another (maybe 3/8") eyebolt on the top end of the rod coupling, (fudging it with nuts or spacers) so that both eyebolts are at the same height in neutral, the you just need a long rod (maybe 3/8" threaded) through both eyebolts, with a lock nut on either side of the eyebolt on the shift shaft, (with some play in between for movement) then continuing the long rod thru a slotted hole, in the port side of the wooden engine mounting box. I'm up for suggestions after this? Also, the size of the long rod, & eyebolts may need to be worked out to suit.

This way, you will have a short distance between the 2 eyebolts for better leverage, and you will also have a good strong fulcrum (the rod coupling on the drive mount bolt) and a longer rod (lever) from the fulcrum, to help leverage for shifting, All of this can be out of the way, & hidden, and done simply, without taking up much space, for no interference. This is just food for thought for you all, for a simple, cheap, effective solution.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey Maxum, Just a suggestion for some proposed tiller hardware. It can be found in the plumbing section at Home Depot, Loew's, or Ace hardware. I figure 3/4" Galv. pipe sections for the tiller, with a split ring hanger, assembly as in my drawing, one top, & bottom, with a pipe coupling added to the tiller rod (for a larger diameter fitting) above the top split ring for support (to rest it on). The reason I say 3/4" pipe, is so that you can cut a groove down the middle at the bottom, & slip your rudder in between, then bolt it thru for strength. Another way you could make this is by using 1" IPS pipe tee's, fastened to the transom with 1" pipe flanges, then slip the 3/4" IPS tiller shaft, into, & thru the oversize pipe tee's. Check out my sketch, sorry it's so rough, By the way, are you planning to shift the lower unit between, forward- neutral- reverse, or is it locked in forward?

It will have forward, neutral, and reverse I hope!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hmmmm! Can we connect a lever from the shift rod to the right side of pic (away from muff system) drill a hole in angle iron for a pivot point and out through the Side of the box? and connect shift lever there? The position of the pivot point will regulate how hard the shift rod is to pull. Then run another lever from there forward to where you sit and give it a pivot point also. Much like a differential lock on some J Deer tractors and 4x4's. Only there's is a peddle instead of a pull up push down lever.

That sounds like a workable plan to me!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Check this.
Drill out the wood for jamming two nuts in. The side to side movement (threaded rod) will be minimal. Threaded rod (store $3). Washers both sides, then double nut.
Need a lever and eye bolt (you need to also grind a relief radius in the threads, similar to the same as the shift rod, for the coupler bolts ..clamping alone not enough)
Outside lever/shift, flat piece..drill smaller, file or grind "flats"..think similar winch handles on boats (fact, that would make a good shifter!)
Your only problem is locking the shift (middle) lever to the threaded rod. (heres were a 2 second weld would work, but maybe a drill and pin, then nuts). On lever lenght, I would say only maybe 2-3 inches tops. You would need to figure movement, and force required
Then slip it in, tighten in the wood the side nuts with some goop to hold..
Inprovement ideas welcome!

I like what you got there, gonna give that some thought!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maybe I'm wrong, But I thought the shift rod in L U pulled up and pushed down. Instead of twisting.

Whats that little pin you put on the end of a threaded rod, it swivels for hookups like that, so that when the lever moves up and down the pin turns to let the item your trying to lift go up or down. Did that make any since?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Wait I have a proposed partial plan for the shifter, First, put a good solid eyebolt directly off the top of the shift lever, maybe (a 3/8" one) then going directly towards the port side, put a Rod Coupling on top of the drive mounting bolt (it looks like a 3/8" bolt) hence a 3/8" rod coupling, then put another (maybe 3/8") eyebolt on the top end of the rod coupling, (fudging it with nuts or spacers) so that both eyebolts are at the same height in neutral, the you just need a long rod (maybe 3/8" threaded) through both eyebolts, with a lock nut on either side of the eyebolt on the shift shaft, (with some play in between for movement) then continuing the long rod thru a slotted hole, in the port side of the wooden engine mounting box. I'm up for suggestions after this? Also, the size of the long rod, & eyebolts may need to be worked out to suit.

This way, you will have a short distance between the 2 eyebolts for better leverage, and you will also have a good strong fulcrum (the rod coupling on the drive mount bolt) and a longer rod (lever) from the fulcrum, to help leverage for shifting, All of this can be out of the way, & hidden, and done simply, without taking up much space, for no interference. This is just food for thought for you all, for a simple, cheap, effective solution.

Some good idea's going on here!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

If I cut a rectangular hole thru the side of the box, fasten a heavy duty door hinge to the inside just under the slot then fasten a peice of rod to it letting the rod stick out say 6-8 inches for the handle then fasten the other end to the shift coupling. "I would need to use the swivel joint I couldn,t think of earlier." Then I could push down, pull up to change gears, would that give the leverage needed to shift or would it lock up at the hinge, etc? (Fair warning!) If I'm told that it won't work I'm going to do everything I can to make it work!

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I think it would work. The length of rod from hinge pin to outside end will govern the distance of travel of your shift handle up and down. You don't want to be moving your shift knob 2' to get your L U rod to travel 2" Thats why we should hook another rod forward to sitting position and be very careful where you hinge it. Use a quite heavy hinge. So that is two hinges instead of one .

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maxum in response to your last post, That sounds simple, effective, & Doable! maybe just use an eyebolt on the top of the shift rod, if the eyebolts the right size, it will act as a swivel (basically it's similar to what I suggested,) you're just moving the pivot point (fulcrum) further away from the shift rod, then I had in mind (with the hinge). I have to think how that's gonna affect things, the leverage? actually it might be better, for a shorter motion on the shift, but put more stress on the rod? It probably won't be an issue (just thinking out loud here,,,lol)