islander 191 / J150TLCOS

[diver_down]

i finally got "the new boat of my dreams", ....; a 1985 islander 191 with a 1985 johnson 150 (v6).
The thing is this engine seams to me to have quite low compression (80 psi across the board), but i ran the test without opening the carbs fully plus my gauge is off (reads low, i know it from experience - by how much ???).
I ran across another engine that is supposedly in running condition, with good compression , etc, comes with almost everything - a 225 yamaha, the question is "would the boat handle it?" - the dry weight is almost the same - 10 lb difference, ...
Also, in the case that this 225 is too much, my engine seems to have an oil problem - the carb bowls get filled with oil, primer bulb gets mushy, engine stops starting, etc; what would be the best place to start investigating? (after draining the carb bowls it starts right up).
Thanks,
Nick.
P.S. Any info on the 1985 islander 191 would be appreciated.

 

[Okee Jimmy]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

A fuel restriction, or vacuum leak will cause the VRO pump to fill the carbs with oil. Check the anti-siphon valve, if it is aluminum, replace it wilth a brass one. A vacuum gauge between the the motor, and fuel tank with a clear section of hose (to observe bubbles) is a good test. If the vacuum gauge reads more than 5 inches of vacuum at WOT, look for a fuel restriction, either tank pickup, filter, primer bulb, rotten hose (ethanol), or kinks. Low vacuum with bubbles, split fuel pickup in tank, pinholes in fuel line, missing clamps, bad fuel connectors. I don't know the specs for your boat, but there should be a placard near the helm with maximum horsepower ratings, and maximum loading, per U.S. Coast Guard. Also, replacement parts for the Yamaha, (carb kits, packs, ouch!!) are very expensive compared to the Johnson, just something to think about. Hope this helps, Jimmy.

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

I'll check running it out of a gas can today and if it cures the problem i might as well replace everything fuel related from tank to motor - fiddling with gas on the water is not a top priority on my list.
Another question is how well suited are these boats for salt water? (it spent all it's life in fresh water, has no dings or holes, i plan to trailer it; the most it will spend in the water is a friday evening - monday morning weekend). It has a zink? anode on the hull (lower transom). Does that help? is it a regular anode or something special?
The plate next to the helm is missing (unless i missed it when i looked - will look again). I was planing to put an auxiliary (30 hp johnson)on it just in case the main dies. Would that have the muscle to bring it home? The fuel tank is 38 gallons. How much does a 150 johnson burn at WOT? Also, can anybody tell me if a 1985 J150 is a crossflow or a looper? What's the "stock" compression on this engine? I plan on changing the water pump and thermostats on it; should I change the head gaskets as well? Is there anything special to look after with these engines?
I do have some engine experience (rebuilt a couple) but not with two stroke, just regular 4 stroke motorcycle and automotive.
Best,
Nick.

 

[jonesg]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

Compression is ok, mine is around 80-83, runs strong.
The factory manuals don't list compression numbers , as long they are even and above 70, the 6 cylinders tend to run lower numbers, thats ok.

With it being new to you, I'd redo the fuel system completely from clean the pickup in tank to the engine, replace hose, bulb and change filters.
Get a real factory service manual for sure, not the aftermkt seloc books.
www.outboardbooks.com

Draw some fuel from tank and let it sit in a glass, look for water.

they guzzle 15gals hr at WOT but who runs em like that?

Be wary of putting too much weight on transom with a 30hp kicker, I have a 10 hp . It can get heavy back there if the batteries are in the back too.

Personally I'd leave the head gaskets alone but do the water pump, check the lower gear oil, use new seals on the drain screws every time.

Pump bulb firm, use a flashlight and look at the hoses under the hood for slight leaks, if air get in it will flood carbs with oil as pump cycles faster.

Watch this vid, you could have the same problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEbW-6eOc5I&feature=channel_page

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

If I can I'll pick up a smaller kicker. The battery IS in the back, though I plan to put 2 backup ones somewhere in the front (use them for 120 inverter as well).
The rest of the gear will be in the front or close to it (scuba tanks, cooler, fishing stuff). I need to figure out some way to pump gas out of the main tank to the auxiliary so i can mix it (the 30 hp needs premix).
Tried the motor out of a gas tank today - runs like a champ. Now it's time to change the impeller. Do I have to change the gaskets on the lower at the same time or just pressure test it? (I bought a full set of gaskets already)
Another question is oil related: the one at walmart (TCW3) is like 3 times less expensive than the evinrude one (same tcw3 rating) at the boat dealers in the area, is it suitable or not?

 

[jonesg]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

You said the carb bowls were filling with oil, I don't see how you fixed that...unless you have tracked an air leak to the main tank feed?
Have you located the problem or just isolated it ?
i'd replumb the whole lot, remove the anti-syphon valve , they cause problems due to clogging. Its usually a ball and spring setup in the feed fitting on the top of the fuel tank. Needle nose pliers or a punch.

TCW3 is the right oil, sprawlmart's oil is good stuff.

Don't know what you mean about pressure testing the lower unit, is there a problem or are you looking to start one

if the lower gear oil is not milky or muddy , then just change it.
Use new seals on the drain screws or it will soon be full of saltwater.

A johnson 150 on an aluminum boat eh? should go fast..like sh*t off a shovel.
An 18hp kicker would be decent enough, not much heavier than a 10hp.
Nice boat, I saw pics on craigslist, they hold their value too.!

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

i figured the problem is in between the tank and the deck fitting (put the hose with the ball into a can of premix 50:1 and it starts right up and runs fine - no sign of oil residue when i unscrewed the drain plugs). it will be changed by midday tomorrow and i'll drain the gas tank as well, put the fuel in the car and gas it up with fresh fuel when i need it.
there was some "oil leak" from the prop area when i tried starting it before but that might have been extra oil going out the exhaust - i was just trying make sure lower unit does not leak. I "tested" the oil today, it has no metal shavings and no water, it is dark in color and smells a little like burned compared to the normal, fresh oil that i have in the plastic cans. I guess I will just change it in this case and check periodically to make sure there's no water in the lower unit. If there's a safe way to pressure test the lower unit without destroying the current seals i would like to know about it.
The weight difference in between a 10hp and 30hp johnson seems to be about 30 pounds (according to nadaguides) - does that make a BIG difference? (I know i already have a LOT of weight on the transom).
Also, the 150 has a hydrofoil on it, do i need it or is it like a massage to a wooden leg?

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

pulled the head covers today - replaced the gaskets, thermostats and pressure relieve valves; dirty, ugly, slow job - everything needed cleaning, the old gaskets were dried out and stuck to the metal, had to clean them out; broke 2 bolts in the process of taking them off, ...; but, it's done; so, tomorrow i'll pull the lower and replace the water pump. While i have the lower off is it a good idea to pressurize it (how much pressure or how much vacuum) and see if it leaks anywhere?
In the process i plan to replace every piece of hose that i can, fuel, water or vacuum one.
I noticed that the telltale is plumbed into the lower end of the backplate on right cylinder block (looking from the back), that means after thermostat, would it be a good idea to somehow move it to a place before thermostat, is it doable?
next question would be how do I check if the oil and temperature alarm work?
I'd like to fix it once and not fiddle with it every time and that means going through the system completely. Is there a wiring diagram somewhere?
What do you guys use for cleaning and coating electric connectors (I have some spray for cleaning - foams yellow when applied to rust and some for protecting - leaves a redish liquid coat; both are automotive)?

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

changed the water pump yesterday - the engine starts right up now, there's water going out of the telltale. I did not run it enough to get it to about 140 head temperature but I believe the thermostats should operate properly as well. The next in line is to check if the alarms work (oil and temperature). If anybody has any experience with that I would appreciate any assistance; my non factory manual has almost nothing on it (nothing on this model anyway). Any leads on affordable temperature and pressure gauges would be appreciated as well (I plan on installing both if possible).

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

found an 18hp evinrude, god knows what year but it was pretty cheap ($125, gas to drive and pick it up included) so I got it, mounted on the boat, fired it up after cleaning the carbs. started right up. It is somehow lighter than the 30hp remote control that I have and it is tiller controlled as well.
Next in line is to change the water pump or impeller on it but i can not even figure out what year it is. the plug on the block reads
18902B
E03843
Any help in identifying it would be appreciated.

 

[jonesg]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

check alarm by unplugging the connector at the head sensor and grounding it to the block, ignition on, beep!

check oil warning by running on premixed oil/gas with oil tank empty.
beep!beep!beep!

add 1/4 tank oil and beep slows down, add more oil and beep stops.

get the manual.
www.outboardbooks.com

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

alarm itself works while the sending unit IS SHOT - there's no bipping even if i take it out of the oil tank completelly (which tank is empty now since i run it on a can of premix).
Any ideas where I could get a sending unit for a reasonable price?
Also, what type of anode is best for aluminum hulls? My local dealers seam to know about as much as me about boats and stock zero to nihil parts, kind of expected when you are more than an hour drive from any decent size body of water, ...

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

I need some help "setting" the shift rod on the 18 hp Johnson 1969 kicker. i changed the waterpump and now it would only stay in forward, no neutral, no reverse. Did I screw something up? (i feel like i've put it back together the way it was before and it used to work fine).

 

[diver_down]

Re: islander 191 / J150TLCOS

seems like the "craddle" in the lower unit was busted. managed to find a parts johnson 25hp for cheap. the lower units are interchangeable but the "new" one leaks like crazy - i guess that's what you get for being cheap and not buying new.
time to order gaskets, ...