Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

So, I installed the ignition switch and things are working well. When I purchased the boat, the guy I bought it from fired up the motor (using muffs) and gave them to me. What kinds of things would you all recommend I do/check to make sure the motor is in good running condition? I am fairly comfortable tinkering.

What mixture goes in the tank? What would you recommend for a motor this old? I thought I read that the mixture ratios were changed??

Thanks. Any advice will help. I know there is no guarantee on these things, but I want to make sure I catch any major issues before I put her in the water. What kinds of things should I check for?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

A 1961 is spec'd out as a 24:1 mix. The 1964 is spec'd out as a 50:1 mix. There are no significant differences between the two motors internally.
This would be your choice to make.
For an old motor w/unknown history, I'd a least change out the water pump impeller and the fuel lines on the motor as a minimum.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Is there a benefit associated with a richer mix (24:1)? I might seem like a motor that old could benefit from a higher oil based content.

I checked the gas lines and impeller. Gas lines are new (not cracked and have new clamps) and the impelling seems to be working just fine.

thanks

 

[royal0014]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Is there a benefit associated with a richer mix (24:1)? I might seem like a motor that old could benefit from a higher oil based content.

I checked the gas lines and impeller. Gas lines are new (not cracked and have new clamps) and the impelling seems to be working just fine.

thanks

Maybe I have my terms wrong, but that would be leaner....24:1 is more oil than 50:1. The difference is the internal bearings of the engine. The older engines need more oil for proper lubrication. A '61 should be 24:1, I think.

Not trying to be a wisea--, but how did you check the impeller? That would require dropping the lower unit. That engine does not have a pee hole, unless someone added one to it.


<<)))(((>>

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

No, you don't have your terms wrong. We were describing the same thing. I used the wrong terminology. Even if my motor could take 50:1, I'd be more inclined to give it 24:1 because of the age it might benefit from having more oil...

The guy I bought it from had the lower unit dropped when I showed up because when I told him I wanted to make sure the impeller was in good shape he wasn't sure.

I should have clarified. The impeller looks like it will be fine. Is there way to know if it's fine since there is no pee hole? Or will I only know once my engine overheats and explodes....

Thanks

 

[ECHO74]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

I just bought a 1961 40hp electric seahorse and was wondering if anyone could tell me what wires are for what? there are 2 blacks 2 blues 1 brown and 1 white.

thanks

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Where do I put the muffs on this engine? Over the little screen mesh on the lower unit above the prop? Thanks.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Are you talking about the wire to the ignition switch?

 

[royal0014]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

'Ya don't use muffs on that engine; gotta dunk it.....


<<)))(((>>

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Took the boat out. Motor ran, but was hard to start. When I opened up the throttle, it didn't even get close to being up on plane. It was super weak.

Where should I start? I don't even know where to begin.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Have you checked the compression and spark? It could be running on one cylinder.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

No. I should do that. The plugs look brand new, but that doesn't mean anything. When I turn the choke off, gas drips like crazy out of the carburetor. I took it apart. It looks extremely clean. The cork in the lower bowl seems to be in good condition and operating - very clean in there too.

Could a bad spark plug or wire or bad compression result in a loss of power and flooding?

Thanks

 

[Daviet]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Yes, a bad plug, wire or compression could cause the problem. If you have gas coming out of the carb, you have either a needle/seat or float problem and you should fix it first.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Okay. I have and extra engine (same year, same model). I'll try swapping some parts. As for the spark plugs...what about cleaning the points first? Is there a distributor in this engine? I'd hate to change the wires and plugs and still have a problem with dirty points.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Before you waist time swapping parts, do a spark and compression test, might save you a lot of time.
The points are under the flywheel as well as the coils. You could have dirty points, bad coil, defective plug wire. If you don't do a spark test and see if you don't have spark on a cylinder how will you know which points to look at?

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Brilliant. This is why I come here for help.

Now for the dumbest question you've probably ever heard....

How do I check the plugs? How do I check compression.

 

[Daviet]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Check with you local auto parts store and see if they rent/loan tools. If they do you can probably rent a compression tester, remove the spark plugs and install the compression tester into a cylinder and crank the engine over 6-8 times and note the reading and then check the other cylinder, they should be within 10% of each other.
Your auto parts should sell an air gap spark tester, adjust it to 3/8", attach one end to the plug wire and ground the other end. Crank the engine over and look at the spark, should be bright blue, then check the other wire.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Here is what I did. Got two new spark plugs because, hey...why not. They're like 5 bucks for both. Grabbed an air gap spark tester and hooked it up. It was in the sunlight, but I definitely saw blue spark on both wires. Took out the old plugs (the one on top was completely black and had fuel on the plug - dripping, really...) the other looked like it was okay.

I wasn't sure if the one bag plug was that way because it had fouled out, so I put in the new plugs. It seemed to be running a bit better, but wouldn't stay idled. It had a tone more power...

I took out the new top plug to check it out...totally black and smelled like gas.

So I am curious...if the wires are getting strong blue sparks, but the top cylinder is not igniting the gas....what could the problem be.

I haven't check compression...I will do that tomorrow when I have my friends compression tester.

I'm ready to part this thing out because I have no experience working on engines. I'm worried it is going to be too much for me.

 

[Nebkroz]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Please give me some help. The motor runs, has good spark (checked the wires and changed the plugs), but will die the second I take the choke off. When out on the water, it runs sluggish and won't get up to speed.

Please, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Why would it die when not choked? What should I check for? What should I do?

I cleaned out the gas pump. I noticed that when running, the blueish green line coming out of the pump has air bubbles in it. Could this be a problem?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Johnson 40 Electric Seahorse

Normally when the engine will not run except when choke indicates a clogged carb. The high speed jet, located in the carb bowl, must be clean. I poke mine out with heavy monofilament and spray carb cleaner through it. The proper way is to take out the jet and clean it, but it requires a special type of screwdriver or you may cause more trouble than you'll fix. The tube running from the bottom of the carb to the top of the carb needs to be cleaned also.