Johnson 9.5 gouged pistons, swapping parts.

HighTrim

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Ok then see advice above that.

Can you blow into fuel inlet?
 

nabiul

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My float readings are 12/16" and 1-8/16", probably was worse before I fiddled with it yesterday. Yeah I used a tube to blow into the inlet while the carb was installed, it was difficult to blow into.

I'll fix it and see what happens.
 

HighTrim

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Soak that carb, spray carb cleaner through the passages, and blow out with compressed air. You should be able to easily blow into it with the carb right side up, ie the needle not seated.
 

nabiul

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Well the good news is that it starts reliably now. But It's sneezing every second at idle which goes away with speed and it seems to be running too fast at the start setting. Although I did add fresh gas to the mix yesterday which probably took it to 75:1 or worse and I already put away the oil with the rest of the boat stuff.

I don't have a compressor on hand right now but I used a flashlight to check the passages and they look clean; I'll give the other carb I have a shot and see if it helps.

Thanks for your help guys; this motor has been a nightmare, but hopefully it will run for a couple of more seasons.
 

HighTrim

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Did you do the linc n sync as I described? Its either off, or the needle is set incorrectly, or the crank halves are not sealed correctly, letting air in.

I find a lot though the sync is off, check that first. The initial static low speed needle setting is 3/4 out from seated, but try 1 to 1.5 turns.
 

nabiul

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Oh god help me. I was adjusting the link setting, I noticed when you tighten the screw it turns the shaft and throws the setting off and I tried a bunch of different things to compensate, after the last one the motor would not start again, not even a burp.

So I go to check the spark starting with the top cylinder and there is no spark, with some more pulling I saw one or two sparks and the bottom cylinder started firing. So I put the spark tester inline with the top plug and started the motor. Bottom cylinder was doing all the work and everytime the motor 'sneezed' the top cylinder had a spark.

Turning the throttle and disturbing the timing plate brought sparks back to the top cylinder for a second or two.
 
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racerone

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The " universal magneto " used on that engine was used on many motors from 3 to 40 hp.---Was used from 1950 to the 1990's.----It is an excellent design.------But there is something wrong with yours.
 

HighTrim

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No, not at all.

Take off the mag plate. See that brass ring? Take a flat screwdriver and a hammer. And in 4 locations around the top of that ring, tap the screwdriver with the hammer, eg 12 o clock, 3 o clock, 6 o clock, and 9 o clock. Then reinstall the mag plate.

Don't need to wail on it! Just 4 light taps around. That will tighten it up.
 

nabiul

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I tried the tapping thing, it didn't make a difference.

I don't understand how it wobbles that much to begin with, I measured the timing plate bushing and there is a clearance of like 5 thou max between it and the collar it sits on. I didn't put any grease on it when I reassembled, is that why?

The carrier ring below also has a taper which should automatically center the plate when tensioned, maybe the timing plate screws are not right?
 

racerone

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???----The taper on the ring faces down, yes ?------Is the cast in place bushing tight on the magplate ?
 

nabiul

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Wait what? The taper on the mag plate retainer is supposed to face down???
 

racerone

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Taper faces down on all the motors I work on.---Just taking a couple of those 9.5's to the storage shed today.
 

nabiul

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Oh my god OMC, all this trouble for no good reason. They chamfer the edge of the brass retainer and make it look like the taper is supposed to fit into it.

Thanks.
 

racerone

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As noted before the design of this " universal magneto " stayed the same for 40 years.---It is an excellent user friendly design too.--So easy in fact that newbies can make mistakes on them !
 

HighTrim

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Don't worry Naibul, you are not the first person to make that mistake! Search this forum, a lot of guys do it.
 
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