Johnson Hi-Vis Oil Alternatives

[jwall116]

I wanted to share my experience with not using the OEM recommended oil. My service manual calls for "OMC/Johnson Hi-Vis Lower unit oil" it does not call for any weight or spec. Pretty illegal actually, but this is the service manual mean't for a johnnyrude tech so they can call for their own products at a shop i suppose. Still a shady practice to not call for a spec.

I put in Pennzoil Hi-Vis 80W-90 Lower unit oil in the lower unit and ran the boat 3 outings over the course of 2 weeks. A total of about 6 hours runtime on this oil that is shown in the photo. Draining this oil which went in as a honey color, came out green!? I poured this oil into a jar and let it settle out, the next day I had a layer on the bottom of that was discolored and up top was green. No water ever showed its pretty face but I took the boat to the repair shop, had the lower unit pressure tested and all tested good !? Whattttttt

The repair shop advised, do not use that oil ever again. They recommended Merc High performance 90 WT over the jonny rude oil for this older outboard. As the synthetic stuff is an overkill and costs more. Being as there was no water, the only conclusion is the oil was being whipped up (foaming).

Anyone else care to elaborate? Fill me in? Similar experience?

This is on a 1995 Jonny 130 Looper. She's a BEAST

 

[racerone]

Discussions about oil and lubrication in outboards can be very lively.

 

[jwall116]

lol

I am just sharing my experience with an oil that was designed for a lower unit that I thought would be good to go.

Being only a boat owner for 2 years, I wonder if the oil looking that way is normal or is it flat out the wrong stuff for the task at hand.

 

[interalian]

I got similar results with BRP oil last year. There was no water in it either.

 

[jwall116]

Using their oil your drain came out discolored without water as well?

I think I am going to be changing the fluid out once a month until I see a change in color. It shouldn't be looking like that on a drain.... unless there is something else going on inside the gearbox. Corrosion/rust maybe?

I have no problem spending $15 a month to keep an eye on this.

 

[interalian]

Yes. This is the foamed part left after removing the clear lube (for use on my little Mate). I drained this oil last fall and it stood in that mason jar all winter, spring and summer without separating any water out of it. If the foamed part has water, I would have expected some of it to separate out in a year, no?

Perhaps I'll put it in the freezer to see if it does.

 

[jwall116]

That's EXACTLY what my oil looked like when i put it in the jar!

 

[Crosbyman]

if the issue does not exist with OMC/Johnson Hi-Vis why not just use what is recommended

regardless if you think it is just a sales oriented gimmick

 

[racerone]

When oil looks like that the lower unit needs a seal kit.-------Not worth hesitating about the simple facts.

 

[bruceb58]

You need to pressure test your lower unit.

 

[racerone]

I consider all big outboard lower units to be " high performance " units.-------That does not refer to " racing equipment " at all.----All you need to do is compare the size of the lower unit and gears to the size of the rear end and gears of the average pickup truck.-----The outboard lower units and gears are small but work BIG and demand the best oil and maintenace.-----No doubt about it.

 

[Vic.S]

Yes. This is the foamed part left after removing the clear lube (for use on my little Mate). I drained this oil last fall and it stood in that mason jar all winter, spring and summer without separating any water out of it. If the foamed part has water, I would have expected some of it to separate out in a year, no?

Perhaps I'll put it in the freezer to see if it does.

That's EXACTLY what my oil looked like when i put it in the jar!

When oil looks like that the lower unit needs a seal kit.-------Not worth hesitating about the simple facts.

Thats mostly water in the bottom layer ...... as sure as eggs are eggs. This oil contains an emulsifier to hold water as an emulsion, Although some oil has separated a lot remains emulsified with water in the bottom layer

You need to pressure test your lower unit.

The OP says it was pressure tested. The trouble is it needs to be vacuum tested as well as it is perfectly possible for it to hold a pressure and to stop oil leaking out but that does not mean that water cannot leak in

 

[HighTrim]

As stated, pressure tested or not, there is water in there, and as stated, the oil is MEANT to hold the water in it. That is why you pay extra for it. It has emulsifiers in in. prevents pockets of water from damaging your gear case.

 

[82rude]

Vic.S BINGO!

 

[bruceb58]

The OP says it was pressure tested.

Well...I would do it again...not using that shop though. I would do it myself. There is water in there.

 

[interalian]

Mine will get another pressure test shortly as the motor is coming off for the winter in a few days. It's running all original 1982 seals, and I have no illusion of permanence of these items. It passed pressure and vacuum tests this spring altough I don't have the best adapters for the tests. Any 'won't break the bank' leads for the right tools? I refuse to take my gearcase to the local marina - the guy is the second biggest jerk I know.

I'd been using the same fill/drain screw washers until the most recent re-fill. Pennywise and pound foolish.

 

[racerone]

Accept this fact !------No special tools are required to install new seals !-----Special tools are factory / shop time savers.---You in your workshop can adapt and get the job done without them.-----I may be in the Calgary / Sundre area late next summer and could show you how simple this all is !

 

[bruceb58]

I'd been using the same fill/drain screw washers until the most recent re-fill. Pennywise and pound foolish.

You are right, not a great idea which also brings up a good point for the OP. You are changing washers every time right?

 

[interalian]

Accept this fact !------No special tools are required to install new seals !-----Special tools are factory / shop time savers.---You in your workshop can adapt and get the job done without them.-----I may be in the Calgary / Sundre area late next summer and could show you how simple this all is !

The question was about adapters for pressure/vacuum testing, but thanks for the insight about the seals. I have a spare gearcase (albeit the older style that doesn't have the recess for the anode (not sure when they put the anodes in)) that's in otherwise unknown condition - good for experiments. It had about 200ml of very black oil, and considering the shape the rest of the engine was in, I'd have little faith in the condition of its internals.

And if you do come to Southern Alberta next summer, do let me know. I think I owe you a steak dinner for your help on my rebuild. I do a mean ribeye.

 

[jakedaawg]

I skipped reading everything after the picture.

In the picture where you have the separated oil the lower milky green stuff had water in it. Due to the gears spending and whatever it homogenized the water into the oil.

A pressure test is not the only test. With a lower unit there is not only a pressure test but a vacuum test. Often, when you have water and oil homogenized in a lower unit and it passes a pressure test it will fail a vacuum test