Key won’t crank like it’s not in position

[Blakerosenbaum]

A couple days ago everything ran great. Only thing was I would have to occasionally adjust this arm to move the start arrow because i would turn the key and nothing would happen. I removed this arm and adjusted some stuff (I have since adjusted it back, I counted) trying to get the start arrow in the right spot. After I took that arm off and put it back on no matter what I wiggle and I’ve moved it thru full range of motion, I cannot get it to crank at all. Bridged the starter solenoid and it cranks just fine. Does anyone have any ideas or notice anything obvious from the images that I’m missing?

1970 evinrude 115hp

Thanks!

 

[racerone]

The internal contacts are likely dirty.----Some of those can be taken apart for cleaning or just flush it with some cleaning agent ( alcohol ? )----Model # of the motor?---A 1972 model 85 / 100 / 125 HP ?

 

[Blakerosenbaum]

The internal contacts are likely dirty.----Some of those can be taken apart for cleaning or just flush it with some cleaning agent ( alcohol ? )----Model # of the motor?---A 1972 model 85 / 100 / 125 HP ?

I’m sorry. I forgot to list. 1970 115 hp cowl says fastwin but when I put serial number into google it comes up starflite. Push button electric shift.

When you say internal contacts, what do you mean? Internal of what? Like the whole motor? What should be taken apart and what should be flushed? I spent most of yesterday cleaning all the grounds I could find but that’s mostly all I did was clean and wiggle wires

 

[racerone]

I thought my post was clear?----Internal contacts in that switch !!----Or do like everyone else and ---" buy a new one"---Sorry to be blunt.

 

[Blakerosenbaum]

No worries. I’m at least 3/4 idiot so I need blunt. When you say switch do you mean the black thing with the two tabs that the start arrow is pointing at?

 

[racerone]

I am quite familiar with these motors, used to run a pair of them on a Wellcraft V-20 ---Read my post slowly, word for word.

 

[Blakerosenbaum]

I am quite familiar with these motors, used to run a pair of them on a Wellcraft V-20 ---Read my post slowly, word for word.

Oh I believe you know what you’re talking about. But like I previously said, I’m 3/4 idiot. I’ve re read 3 times slowly word for word everything you have written on this thread and I’m grabbing that there is a switch that likely has contact issues and that most people just replace them but sometimes they come apart and you can clean them with alcohol. But since I am not quite familiar with these motors and did not run a pair of them on a welcraft v-20… I’m still lost. So my question again is the black thing with the two metal tabs to the left of the arrow that says start in the image the thing you are talking about? If so, what is that switch called so I can buy a new one?

 

[Crosbyman]

motors have different neutral interrupt switches ... one is sometimes up front on the throttle and when put in START it fires up the solenoid which in turn fires up the starter etc..
For safety reason that simple function is frequently interupted by a safety device to PREVENT starting while in gear.

THe one switch could a neutral start switch inside the throttle and it allows 12vdc to go back to the engine solenoid the other has a similar neutral interrupt role and is engine mounted.

Here the second type simply provides a ground source (IN NEUTRAL) for the solenoid to operate with the 12v from your START SWITCH position . see diagram of a " similar" engine from MAX RULE site


you need to get some exact wire diagram and become familiar with electrical test to follow the up front START 12vdc from the key switch S post (see wite wire here in diagram) all the way to the solenoid control post .

In this diagram the solenoid would only activate IF THE GROUND NEUTRAL SWITCH is
properly mecanicaly aligned IN NEUTRAL and internally functional (test it with a ohm meter)

 

[racerone]

The switch in the picture prevents cranking if throttle is open too much !----Elegantly simple.

 

[racerone]

The 1970 model 115 HP will start in gear , but NOT if throttle is open too far !!

 

[saltchuckmatt]

My uncle used to sell those motors when he owned an Evinrude franchise. I was just a wee little boy back then...the 115 was the biggest they had. Not really sure if this is it but the name of the part seems right.

Pretty sure you can ground your solenoid and bypass it but I could be wrong. I never work on those older models.

Here is the link.

https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0582377

 

[racerone]

?????----That part has nothing to do with start in gear protection at all !!!

 

[Blakerosenbaum]

The switch in the picture prevents cranking if throttle is open too much !----Elegantly simple.

How does it know the position of the start arrow? I looked at it and there’s no plunger or lever to compress. Does it use magnets?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

That little sucker is hard to find. I believe this is the part number and Crowley has one. Google lens and AI came up with it.

During my search it called it a fuel enrichment but I couldn't get back there...this one calls it the neutral safety switch.

I know what you mean...no moving parts so must be magnetic or induction?

Pretty sure that one wire goes to the solenoid so my hack should work.

 

[Blakerosenbaum]

long walk for a short drink. The problem was the plunger broke off of that switch and I need to get a new ignition switch and key as well. I temporarily put a “new” plunger in that switch and then bridged battery positive to s on ignition and she fired right up. Thanks everyone!

 

[saltchuckmatt]

long walk for a short drink. The problem was the plunger broke off of that switch and I need to get a new ignition switch and key as well. I temporarily put a “new” plunger in that switch and then bridged battery positive to s on ignition and she fired right up. Thanks everyone!

Well you better buy the Crowley one quick!

 

[Crosbyman]

If nothing is physically pressing on the switch plunger, then it’s not a direct push-button style actuation. There are two common ways that 0382548-type neutral switches get triggered:

---

1) Cam / ramp built into the shift mechanism (most common)​

Even if you don’t see a rod pushing it, the switch is usually positioned so that:

• A cam, notch, or flat spot on the shift shaft/linkage lines up in neutral
• In neutral, the cam allows the switch to relax into its “closed” position (internal spring does the work)
• In gear, the cam moves away and the switch opens

So nothing “hits” it hard—you’re just seeing position-based alignment, not obvious contact.

---

2) Magnetic (reed switch) style (less common but used on some setups)​

Some versions use:

• A small magnet on the shift linkage
• A sealed reed switch

How it works:

• In neutral → magnet is aligned with the switch → contacts close internally
• In gear → magnet moves away → contacts open

In this case, there is zero physical contact, which matches what you’re describing.

---

3) Ground-through-linkage design​

On certain older designs:

• The switch may always be physically “closed”
• But the ground path only exists in neutralbecause:
  • The linkage or cam connects a grounded metal path only in neutral

So it looks like nothing is happening, but electrically the ground path is being completed.

---

What likely applies to your case​

If you truly see:

• No plunger movement
• No contact point
• No cam touching it

Then the strongest possibilities are:

• Magnetic reed switch setup, or
• Hidden cam alignment (very subtle contact)

---

Quick way to confirm​

• Put a multimeter on the switch leads
• Slowly move the shifter through positions

If it switches cleanly ON/OFF without any visible mechanical action → likely magnetic

If it changes right at a specific position → likely cam alignment

 

[Crosbyman]

On a 1970 115 hp Johnson / Evinrude, there’s no magnet or electronic trickery—the neutral switch is purely mechanical, but it can be deceptively subtle.

What’s actually happening​

That 0382548 neutral switch is a spring-loaded plunger switch that is:

• Mounted right beside the shift linkage or shift cam
• Actuated by a small cam, flat, or notch on the shift shaft

Why it looks like nothing is touching it​

On those older motors:

• The cam doesn’t “push” the switch like a button
• Instead, it just barely contacts or releases it
• The movement is very small—often just a fraction of a millimeter

So:

• In neutral → the cam lines up so the plunger is slightly depressed → switch closes to ground
• In gear → cam rotates away → plunger extends → switch opens

It’s easy to miss because:

• The contact point can be behind or underneath the linkage
• The motion is tiny
• Often covered in grease/dirt so you don’t see it move

---

Electrically (important detail)​

This system usually works by:

• The switch grounds the ignition or starter circuit in neutral
• So in neutral → ground is present (closed)
• In gear → ground is removed (open)

---

Common issue on these engines​

After years:

• The cam wears down OR
• The switch gets misaligned

Result:

• It never quite gets pressed → no start in neutral
• Or works only if you “wiggle” the control

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Welcome to the information super highway!

 

[racerone]

??----This switch has a mechanical plunger!---Operated by a cam on the THROTTLE lever.-----The 1970 model 115 HP will start in gear at idle.----It will not crank with too much throttle applied.-----And only 1 white wire goes to the switch.