I know it's late, and you won't get this for a while yet.. lol
When you do get to testing (Friday or the weekend), I had a couple more thoughts.
To amend a little on the list of tests on page 6, post #89:
1) Put one meter lead on the screw that the black wire from the kill switch connects to. Other lead on the ignition switch black/yellow terminal.
With key OFF - Should get beep no matter of lanyard.
With key RUN - Should get beep with lanyard out, no beep with lanyard in.
With key START - Should get beep with lanyard out, no beep with lanyard in.
2) Verify ignition switch and kill switch are on same ground, by having one lead on the screw the black wire from kill switch connects to, then follow the black wire off the ignition "M" post (ground wire) to the screw it connects to. Put other lead there. In reality, both of those wires should attach to the same screw in the remote casing, but in case they don't.
Should have a beep between those 2. IF NOT.. Stop here.. We'll need to figure out the 2 grounds and connect them somehow to continue.
3) Same as page 6 #89
4) If, as I suspect, the kill switch ground screw is the same as the ignition ground screw on remote casing, skip this and go directly to 5.
5) Same as page 6 #89
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You mentioned another thing that has me thinking.
Can i bypass the kill switch for testing? I unplugged killswitch ground and killswitch wires from ignition and still had to plug in boot by pinky to get engine to cut off.
Does that mean you had kill switch ground disconnected, AND the black/yellow "boot" on the ignition switch disconnected, yet connecting the pinky boot back together still shut the engine off???
If so, that almost certainly points to a short to ground between the ignition black/yellow boot and the pinky connector.
(Love our terminology now huh? haha!)"
Jake had said:
In all likelyhood your blk/yel is going to ground somewhere. You need to isolate it and ohm it, one lead on blk/yel other on ground. With blk/yel disconnected at both ends.
What he's describing there, is pretty much what I meant as a test on page 2 post #'s 27 and 30.
We never did that test did we?
If not, I'd highly suggest we do that first. With the new audible, it means you should never hear a beep between black/yellow and ground when disconnected as laid out in posts #27 and 30.
You can use the ground screw in the remote casing and you can use the engine block as you ground point.
Upon more thinking, there is a black wire that should run from the remote, through the harness and attach to the engine block as a ground. So engine OR remote screw should work as your ground.
If you get ANY beeps during that test, we need to trace down the short to ground.
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Jake also mentioned to look for anywhere along the harness where somebody may have spliced into the black/yellow thinking it was a ground.
I'm not sure that happened. You said, or at least I got the impression from page 1 post #5, that you've had this for a while and it WAS working fine for you. This is new behavior.
Unless you added equipment and spliced into a wire, that's probably not it.
However, it would be good to look anyway. If something was spliced in and now that goes to a ring terminal which goes to the negative battery post, then that's a ground on the black/yellow, but we wouldn't detect that in our tests since the battery isn't hooked up.
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IF all the above check out fine, including the list of 1 -5 checking out as expected, then that leaves pulling the flywheel to check the UFI.
The only big reason I didn't suggest that right off, was the data pointing toward boat side, combined with the need to buy/borrow tools to pull the flywheel. I was thinking we should verify (what should have been) the easy stuff first. :facepalm:
You'll need the correct size socket to take the flywheel nut off, a strap wrench/flywheel turner or some other method of preventing engine from rotating when removing/installing flywheel nut, and a proper flywheel puller. Harmonic Balancer pullers have been known to work too (I used one on my 1971 Johnson,50hp). You just have to be sure you use the right bolts so you don't wreck the threads in the flywheel.
And finally, the torque wrench to be sure it's installed and torqued properly when you put it back on.
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I know that's a TON of information.
I hate to throw it all at you at once, but I'm thinking the more information you have when you do get to testing, you'll be able to DO more testing and not have to stop and wait for more answers on the computer.
Hopefully, this allows you to get more done with whatever time you have available.
Sorry for the long post, but I truly hope it helps out!! :nightmare::fear::distress:
ound:
