Lifting the Engine Methods

[76SeaRay]

I have test fitted my engine twice. The first time with no exhaust manifolds and without the closed cooling system. For that I bolted chains into the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads on both sides The next time no exhaust manifolds and I had the closed cooling system on but pulled the heat exchanger back off (its heavy). There was no way to chain to the front of the engine and the normal lifting brackets won't fit anywhere with the closed cooling system installed so I used an intake manifold bracket (via carburetor studs) to lift the engine. I don't like that approach. Anyway, I am trying to figure out where I can put a thru hull sea water fitting in and locate where the Alpha trim/tilt pump, Boat Leveler pump, batteries, and ACR will fit. So, I need to drop the engine in again for fitting purposes.

My problem is that I have the engine ready to test fire and break-in on the engine stand as soon as I finish wiring the engine harness. That means everything is on the engine and the closed cooling system including the block is filled with coolant water. I am guessing the weight to be around 1,000lbs. I have a gantry crane rated at 1 ton (Harbor Freight model) with two chain hoists (one 1 ton and one 2 ton). So, is there a way to use lifting straps around the engine, maybe thread them between the exhaust manifolds and heads as opposed to disassembly of the engine at this point? I can still bolt to the back of the heads but there is no place in the front of the engine for a bracket or chains. Suggestions?

 

[achris]

I can still bolt to the back of the heads but there is no place in the front of the engine for a bracket or chains. Suggestions?

As supplied those engines have lifting brackets. And you'll also find them in the manual (pictures of how to sling the engine for lifting)...

That front lifting bracket is part of the alternator/power steering pump mounting bracket. That and the rear lifting bracket are designed to carry the fully assembled engine.

Chris.....

 

[tank1949]

I have test fitted my engine twice. The first time with no exhaust manifolds and without the closed cooling system. For that I bolted chains into the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads on both sides The next time no exhaust manifolds and I had the closed cooling system on but pulled the heat exchanger back off (its heavy). There was no way to chain to the front of the engine and the normal lifting brackets won't fit anywhere with the closed cooling system installed so I used an intake manifold bracket (via carburetor studs) to lift the engine. I don't like that approach. Anyway, I am trying to figure out where I can put a thru hull sea water fitting in and locate where the Alpha trim/tilt pump, Boat Leveler pump, batteries, and ACR will fit. So, I need to drop the engine in again for fitting purposes.

My problem is that I have the engine ready to test fire and break-in on the engine stand as soon as I finish wiring the engine harness. That means everything is on the engine and the closed cooling system including the block is filled with coolant water. I am guessing the weight to be around 1,000lbs. I have a gantry crane rated at 1 ton (Harbor Freight model) with two chain hoists (one 1 ton and one 2 ton). So, is there a way to use lifting straps around the engine, maybe thread them between the exhaust manifolds and heads as opposed to disassembly of the engine at this point? I can still bolt to the back of the heads but there is no place in the front of the engine for a bracket or chains. Suggestions?

achris photo is the best that I have seen but sometimes conversions, rebuilds, new engines don't come with the loading lugs. And, used 350 blocks to rob parts are getting scarce. You may be able to find new ones easier. My latest didn't have any in the front of the motors. I welded 2 angle iron (1/4" plate) to a chain with 2 3/8" grade 8 bolts and fasten them to the heads. That's 4 grade 8 3/8" bolts I didn't have exhausts bolted on, since my engine compartment is tight and my friend didn't have much room to maneuver motor, while I lowered each of them. The thermostat lug really comes in handy when adjusting motor mounts. It did for me!! We didn't have one during the install, but later on we fabricated one. Good luck!

 

[76SeaRay]

I am not home today so tomorrow afternoon I will post a picture. The alternator is low on the port side and the power steering pump is high on the port side. Neither have a place to lift. The thermostat housing for the closed cooling system uses bolts that are not accessible from the top of the housing. That is why I was wondering if some kind of strap sling would work on the front. Also, this is a vortec so the bracket that normally attaches to the back starboard side intake manifolds don't fit the spacing.

 

[kenny nunez]

Where are the exhaust risers, center or rear?

 

[tank1949]

I am not home today so tomorrow afternoon I will post a picture. The alternator is low on the port side and the power steering pump is high on the port side. Neither have a place to lift. The thermostat housing for the closed cooling system uses bolts that are not accessible from the top of the housing. That is why I was wondering if some kind of strap sling would work on the front. Also, this is a vortec so the bracket that normally attaches to the back starboard side intake manifolds don't fit the spacing.

You may have to remove state housing and attach lug there. My motors are closed with heat exchangers too. We had to fabricate the stuff. If you have access to welders, you can build your own. I am sure MC sells the exact lugs required, but it may not be cost effective to buy new. Keep in mind that any hoist system needs some flexibility so that you can adjust the angle of the motor going into your mounting position.

 

[76SeaRay]

Exhaust risers are in the center. To remove the Tstat housing means draining the cooling system and removing the heat exchanger and hoses then removing the Tstat.

 

[kenny nunez]

Your idea of using straps between the heads and manifolds would probably work if they are strong enough.
Rig them diagonally or in 4 point arrangement and that should make it happen.

 

[achris]

One of the things that concerned me when I first picked up my engine (to install) was the amount of side loading on the lift brackets that a 2 leg sling arrangement created. Even before I had the whole weight of the engine on the lift it was alarming, so I quickly re-rigged it with a spreader beam. That give the bracket to beam chains a directly vertical pull, and doesn't try to deform the brackets. I now never lift an engine without that spreader beam.



Chris.......

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks for the info. I have one of those tilt adjustable engine lift bars. I don't know how much load it can take. Part of my problem is the height of the gunwales plus the height of the trailer. I have my gantry crane extended vertically as far as it will go and the chain block ends up at the very top of its travel just getting the engine over the edge with the lift point right at the top of the intake. It looks like I will have to disassemble the engine again to bolt something to it for lifting.

 

[todhunter]

I set my engine in with an engine cherry picker and the carb lift plate....granted I had no manifolds on the engine and no fluids in it. I hooked my hoist up directly to the lift plate so that I could get as much height as possible out of the cherry picker to clear the back of the boat - I even had to pull the wheels off the trailer and lower it down onto 4x4 blocks of wood. When lowering, the boom of the hoist was going to hit the back of the boat about 12-18 inches before the engine was all the way down. I ended up blocking the engine up in the engine bay, which allowed me to re-rig the hoist with a chain and lower it the rest of the way. All this to say - you may consider coming up with a way to block up the engine in the boat and re-rig part-way through.

 

[Scott Danforth]

best thing in the world for swapping engines...

however if I cant get the engine tilter in place, I have many times pulled the carb, and using 3/8" bolts into the cylinder head accessory drive holes, made an x-brace of chain and picked engines.

where the two chains come together, you can tailor the lift point by using additional bolts to choose the pinch point of the X

 

[76SeaRay]

Here are some pics. You can see why a TStat bracket won't work. I can attach chains and bolt them to the back of the heads no problem. If I remove the power steering pump and sneak the chain between cooling hoses, I might be able to bolt to the front of the heads. Is a single 3/8 grade 8 bolt sufficient for the accessory holes or do I risk cracking a head lifting with single bolts on both sides and not having a bracket attached with two bolts?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Can also use one of these

Amazon.com: Spectre Performance SPE-903 903 Carburetor Lift Plate : Automotive

Buy Spectre Performance SPE-903 903 Carburetor Lift Plate: Service Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[76SeaRay]

I have one of those but it is only rated to 1,000lbs. I used it without the exhaust manifolds and heat exchanger on the engine. I am afraid now that it would be close to the limit if not over it for fully dressed.

I picked up a 2 ton rated adjustable lifting bar since the one I had already is only rated to 1,500lbs. I want to make sure nothing breaks there either.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Bobtail is only 600#

 

[76SeaRay]

The research I found says anywhere from 860 to 950lbs dry and fully dressed. Mine is fully dressed and wet right now. So, that is what I have been working to...

 

[tank1949]

Here are some pics. You can see why a TStat bracket won't work. I can attach chains and bolt them to the back of the heads no problem. If I remove the power steering pump and sneak the chain between cooling hoses, I might be able to bolt to the front of the heads. Is a single 3/8 grade 8 bolt sufficient for the accessory holes or do I risk cracking a head lifting with single bolts on both sides and not having a bracket attached with two bolts?View attachment 351502

View attachment 351503

Very Nice and clean!!! SS fuel tubing? Stat housing looks very similar or the same as mine. I removed my stat housing temporarily in order to fastened a HOMEMADE lug for the up and down adjustments required for the front motor mounts. Of course, my exhausts' manifolds were not installed on motor. That would have made my application too difficult.

 

[MichaelBC]

My new engine came with two lifting eyes bolted to the cylinder heads.







For taking it out of the box I used two belts on the small fork lifter.

An engine lift bar is also just as good


To put it into the boad I found it very easy to use a larger fork lift and an electric winch.

 

[76SeaRay]

Fuel pump to fuel filter is stainless steel. Fuel pump to carb is rubber marine fuel line with crimped steel ends.

Thanks for the bracket pictures. I haven't found any like those to buy. They would work on the back but they wouldn't work on the front without some disassembly.