Mariner Magnum 40

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Paul,<br /><br />Sounds like the exhaust cover to me. No crack in the block, not unheard of for the bolts to leak. It's actually the gasket that's leaking and the water is making it's way out through the bolt hole. No hurry, but you'll have to pull the powerhead off and repalce all those gaskets at some stage. <br /><br />Chris..............

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Pooh! Thats good to hear!<br />No Im a little more optimistic, but my wife is giving me a hard time because I spend so much time in the garage.<br />I forgot to say when I was pumping the bulb on the fuel line before I tried to start the engine, it was like a vacuume in the fuel system. The bulb stayed compressed after I pumped it 6-7 times. It returned to normal after a while with a "bubbeling" sound. The air valve on the fuel tank were wide open. I even took the fillingcap of to be sure.I noticed that the fuel hose from the inlet to the fuelpump was i little bended. Not so much that the fuel didnt pass, but I guess it could obstruct the fuel flow a little. The fuel filter did not fill more than half, even when I crankced the engine. A lot of small bubbles appeard in the fuel inside the filter.<br />The carbs will come off as soon as I get all of my tools which I left at my cabin in the mountain two weeks ago. <br />Thanks a lot Chris, your really a good man helping me out with this! I guess it turns out with a working engine at the end!<br />All the best,<br />Paul

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

FALSE ALARM!!<br />I dont know if I dare to tell you what the reason to the vacuume in the fuel system were.<br />I put on the fuelline from the tank to the engine the wrong way. The connection are similar in each end so I did not notice the arrow on the bulb were pointing at the fueltank .. <br /><br />I have measured the compression and cyl 1, 2 and 4 are between 120-125 psi. Cyl 3 are 116 psi.<br />How may that effect my problem?<br />No Im going for the carbs and the fuelpump.<br /><br />Paul

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Those compressions are not anything to worry about. Brave man for admitting the fuel flow problem. Now I have something to blackmail you with. Try putting a small amount of fuel into the cylinders (take the plugs out and put it in) and see if the egnine fires.<br /><br />Chris...........

 

[stan_deezy]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Just jumping in with both feet, mouth wide open and brain in neutral!!<br /><br />I have the same engine and just have a question that might help (or not!)<br /><br />The remote system you bought; does it have a choke switch??<br /><br />On this engine there is a manual choke switch or button under the hood. <br /><br />Also; bit curious about the comments on fuel/oil mix; does it not have autolube? (probably daft question as you would have noticed the great big oil tank at the front of the engine!)<br /><br />Best of luck with this!<br /><br />Bro<br /><br />Ex Royal Marine ex Coastguard ex husband lol lol lol

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Hi Bro!<br />My engine got an electrical choke. I just push the key on the starter and hold it there when I turn the key and cranck the engine. Hence I do not have a manual choke switch or button under the hood.<br />It used to be autolube, but that system is blocked and the great big oiltank in the front are removed.<br /><br />Chris!<br />After I put on the fuelline - the right way this time, the engine is almost starting. It fires, but Im not sure on all cylindres. The starter re-engage when the engine pick up speed, but it stalls after 1-2 sec. Thick smoke is coming out of exhaustports.<br />The upper carb is dripping fuel when I pump the bulb. Maybee the lower one leaking too, but it could come from the upper carb leak.<br />When i open the throttle and look into the lower carb, I can see some "gasket stuff" used as a sealing between the carb and the motorblock has been squeezed out in the intake.<br />The fuelfilter is empty when I have crancked the engine for a while and the bulb is soft.<br />My guess is the fuelpump or some airleaks in to the carbs when operating. I will rebuild the fuelpump and the carbs.<br />I have to go to work friday morning. Then I go to my mountain cabin on sunday to do a lot of preplanned maintainance before the winter comes.<br />Next weekend I go salmonfishing with my brother (wouldnt miss for the world)And then I go to work for a week. My next chance is mid august, which is a pity. I really got a lot of good help in this forum, especially from Chris. <br />Thanks a lot!!! As a former actor and now a governor in a sunny state in the US once stated - Ill be baack!<br /><br />All the best from Paul

 

[stan_deezy]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Paul,<br />that manual choke I referred to is in case the electrical choke fails; <br /><br />can I suggest that you order the following book;<br /><br />Clymer Mariner Outboard Shop Manual<br /><br />ISBN 0-89287-606-9<br /><br />You should be able to pick it up on Amazon or somewhere similar. It has helped me on numerous occasions. Bit concerned to hear that the autolube has been disconnected; perhaps Chris can give more feedback on this.<br />I know that the spark plugs gave me grief and the fuel pump diaphragms looked great but they were actually the source of my problem; the overhaul kit is cheap so I'd suggest going for that.<br />By the way my carbs leak fuel if I pump the bulb for too long!<br />Don't worry though; once you get the engine running you will not be disappointed! One of the best engines I have had the pleasure of owning!<br /><br />All the best, enjoy the weekend at the cabin!<br />Bro

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Thank you Bro, my brother in arms!<br />I would order the book that you advice me to.<br />I been working with the engine this afternoon and my wife asked if I needed psychiatric care after failing one more time to start the engine.<br />I took apart the fuelpump and the carbs and they looked ok. But for all I know, they could not be OK. I did not have any compressed air or carbcleaner. The dissasembly was just to try one more thing before I give up for a week or two. The lower carb is still leaking, but I managed to seal of the leak from the upper carb.<br />I did not work and the engine did not start.<br />Could it be that the ignition is totaly out of its proper settings? It reminds me of an old car I once had where the timing was crazy and the car did almost..... start.<br />Anyway Bro, Thank you and do have fear winds and following seas.<br />Paul<br />Still a Commander in the Royal Norwegian Navy.

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Bro!<br />I saw that you have an 8 digit serialnr on your engine starting with an zero. Do you read the number from a label on the engine, or from that coin-size plug on the right side of the powerhead. If you read it from the "coin" does it still have that zero before the next 7 digits.<br />Which year is your engine?. I have only 7 digits and no letters in my serialnr. The label with the number on is not present anymore. If I should add the zero to the rest of the numbers, my number match with the 1994 model. Chris told me I have a 1989 modell, but Im really not 100% sure. On the other hand he is a 100-times more experinced than me on this subject and are probably right this time as well.<br />Thank you!<br />Paul

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Paul,<br /><br />Serial numbers come in 2 flavours. Like yours with 7 digits and then the good ol's (American) with a '0' then a letter and then 6 digits.<br /><br />With your serial number I had to interpolate. Your engine is Belgium built and the serial number to year listing I have is only for American built. I have the parts catalogue which lists both numbers (USA & Belgium) but not the years. So I looked at the groupings and made a 'best guess' as to where yours fitted in the group. Not rocket science and for the purposes here, close enough. As I said in an early post the serial number is more important than the year. <br /><br />Chris..........

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Feedback for Bro,<br /><br />Autolube. I assume you are refering to the internal oil injection system. Mercury did make a unit called "Autolube" a few years back, it was an external (to the engine) tank that the fuel line plugged into and then another line ran to the engine. I wouldn't put too much faith in the "Autolube" system. Mercury ran a few updates on it so they MAY have had reliability issues. The oil injection system, on the other hand, is brilliant. I don't understand why anyone would want to remove it. It's simple and reliable. If you like I can post a diagram of the system for you to look at. (or e-mail it to you).<br /><br />Chris..............

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Hi Chris and thank you again for the thorough explanation abut the serialnumber. Before you gave me the right answer on the year model I bought a Seloc manual for 1990 - 2000. I was convinced the engine was at least a 1990, but it was not. But the manual is interesting reading and many parts are the same as my engine, especially the fuel system.<br /><br />I did not perform the test with fuel directly into the cylinders. I know that the engine ignites. Does the test have any other purpose that i did not understand? <br />Let us say that the fuelpump diaphragm are not working well (no visual damage. I fill the carbs with fuel by pumping the bulb. If it is nothing else wrong, shouldnt the engine start and at least idle for a while as long as I continue to squeze the bulb every no and then in order to pump fuel to the carbs?<br />Could it be the ignition timing that is totaly out of setting? <br />Another question: Are there any difference between the idle speed(rpm)screw and the idle mixture screw on the throttle linkage system? The manual operates with two different names on the same screw in two different pictures. The manual also refers to the idle rpm screw located at the upper right side of each carb when you look at it from det front. This is confusing for a man with some limitations in technical english. <br />I appriciate your help and please do not hesitate to tell me if I use to much space on this forum.<br /> <br />All the best, Paul

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

The reason behind putting fuel into the cylinders is just to verify most other things. It discounts the carbs for the diagnostic process. No hidden purpose. <br /><br />Sorry that you bought the wrong manual. Am I allowed to say "I told you so!!" <br /><br />The screw on the carb is the idle mixture. This controls the ratio of fuel and air that the engine receives at idle. The screw on the arm is the idle speed adjustment and this controls the idle speed (funny about that). Adjusting the mixture will affect the speed of course, same as a car engine. With these engines set the mixture to be slightly rich. As that have no accelerator pump they need to be running slightly rich or they will falter and may stall on accelerating. It's one of the common questions on this forum, "Engine hesitates on a throttle opening". <br /><br />Chris.............<br /><br />P.S. Your english is fine. Better than my Norwegian.

 

[stan_deezy]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Hi guys!<br />Just back after a weekend playing with the Mariner 40; so far so good!<br />Achris; when I said autolube I did indeed mean oil injection sysytem; not the seperate external tank but the one built into the forrard part of the engine (all nautical me me hearties!).<br />This is a great system; but here's a clue; its run from the fuel pump (according to my diagrams anyway). When I had running/non start problems there was hardly a drop of oil used; checked the diaphragms and they appeared visually okay, but then I remembered being told years ago that just cos it looks right doesn't mean it is! Achris probably knows that fuel pump diaphragms are notorious for pinholes that are invisible to the naked eye; I replaced them and all of a sudden; no more running problems (and a great increase in oil use; which has to be a good thing!)Luckily no major damage done; all compression readings withing 3psi of each other at 125+/-<br />Having said that, and this is another clue for our Viking cousin; a lot of people mistake the screws on the arm on the port side of the engine as idle/running speed screws; which of course they are not! One of them controls maximum spark advance; my timing was out by more than 20'!!!<br />Get a good manual and fiddle with confidence!<br /><br />Ps; Achris; fully agree; these engines prefer rich rather weak mixture settings.<br /><br />Pps; if the oil injection system has been removed; are the inlet/oulet plugs at the fuel pump isolated? Could this be an air leak into the fuel pump? How did the engine run after the oil injection system was removed?<br />I would go with Achris and inject fuel directly into cylinders (he's always right anyway!! lol!)

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Hi, and thank you both for the answers!<br />I did not go to the mountain today (going tomorrow) so a had some time to play with my motor. I checked once more the ignition - this time manually by putting the sparkplugs close to the powerhead and watch the spark. It went more than 10 mm and looked strong.<br />I also checked the timing when crancking the engine. It was 6-7 degrees BTDC. Is it acceptable or at least good enough to make it start?<br />I also removed the fuelpump and the carbs in order to rebuild them as soon as I get the carb and pump reparekit. The top carb was very dirty in the induction intake. It looked like dirty oily fuel. It was nearly black. I had those carbs out and cleaned them only three days ago. <br />I did not have the time to inspect the fuelpump but I could see the same oily stuff coming out of the hole in the back of the fuelpump. This is the hole which steers the pump into the right position when it is mounted with a gasket on the powerhead-bracket. It may look as a gasket or a diaphragm slowly dissolving and polute the fuel. When I removed the carbs and looked in to the ports on cylinder 1/2,it was the same black stuff inside.<br />Cyl 3/4 were clean. The two upper sparkplugs also had a little of the same black stuff attached.<br /><br />Bro: I just bought the engine (very cheap of course) from I guy I know a little through some other friends. He had it for three years, but last summer the engine just bogged out. He planned to fix it, but never got the time. He bought a brand new Honda 40 hp.<br />So I really dont know when the oil injection system got blocked. Well it isnt really blocked.. only a fuelhose between the openings (inlet/outlet) at the oilpump. The pump is still there, but is not in any way linked to the fuelsystem. It only goes one line through the fuelpump. Fuel from the fueltank, through the fuelfilter,to the fuelpump, to the upper carb and down to the lower carb. If I make the engine run good, I will think of putting the oil injection system back to operation. <br />I going away for a week, but I keep you posted of the progress.<br />Thanks a lot,<br />Paul<br />

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

 

[Norwegian Viking]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Chris!<br />I just noticed on the drawing that the fuelfilter comes after the fuelpump. In my engine an aftermarket filter comes before the fuelpump. OK? <br />What I noticed after the disassembly of the carbs was a little strange. I dont know if it effects the problem but the gasket between the lower carb and the powerhead was not original. It was made of some gasket compound you get on a tube. This gasket compound filled a hole and a slot at the back of the carb. The idle mixture screw tip could be seen through that hole when I removed the gasket compound. Of course the gasket will cover the same slot, but not fill it up? How does it effect my problem?<br />No Im really leaving for a week in the mountains. When I come back my repair kit for the fuel pump and carbs have arrived, Then well see!?<br /><br />All the best,<br />Paul

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Enjoy your week in the mountains......

 

[stan_deezy]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

Me thinks we are getting closer and closer to the problem; previous "mechanic" had no clue but lots of sealant!<br /><br />Check out my posts about an ancient Volvo Penta/Archimedes engine where a trained car mechanic had committed two foul deeds; number one; fitted the two fuel pump gaskets the wrong way round<br />number two; fitted the gaskets and blanking plates for the water pump upside down!!<br />Oh how I laughed"!

 

[achris]

Re: Mariner Magnum 40

The word "clutz" comes to mind.....