Mercruiser Setting Timing on 3.0L

ESGWheel

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
803
Dan,
Long post but please read thoroughly.
Enthusiasm is great but let’s think thru a few things first and come up with a plan. Here are my suggestions and questions.
  1. Did you rerun the motor post confirming the FO and then pulling the plug wires one at a time?
    • If not, please do as this will validate your compression readings and post results
  2. Do you own an air compressor?
    • If not then a leak down tester will do you no good, need one to use it.
    • But let’s say you do have one or access to one (even one of those pancake types that carpenters use will work), getting a leak down tester is not going to be a good investment for you IMO. These are used as a diagnostic device for folks that do a lot of work on engines to help them determine the extent of the issues - prior to tearing it down - to then provide the customer a better estimate of costs to come. The damage your engine has will not change and the costs will be what they are. You will be able to afford it or not depending on damage. IF you still desire to do a leak down test, can do a poor man’s leak down as mentioned by Mike in post #17 and me in #7. If want to do this reply: “Please explain how” and we’ll walk you thru it.
Post doing all the above, assuming bad (expected) results of item 1, let’s get into it and pull the head to see where its at. Do so by first taking a lot of pictures of it all assembled. Keep everything ORGANIZED and CLEAN as you pull it apart. One method I use is to have a bunch of plastic zip (sandwich) bags including the larger quart size and a sharpie marker. And then mark a bag with the items and place into the bag. Example: marked with “Valve Cover Bolts” and then place them in that bag as you pull them out. Also have a roll of painter’s tape and can use that to tag things that do not fit into a bag. Example: your pushrods > need to keep them in order so put a little tag on each one as you pull it out, thus they are numbered 1 thru 8 starting from the front. Make sense? Take pics along the disassembly, like once the head is pulled but (hopefully) the gasket is still on the block > pic of that. The carefully peel off gasket > pic of it and the block and the bottom of the head. Post them.

A quick google search provided what seem to be good videos on this process:
  • Part 1 Disassembly link
  • Part 2 Assembly link
Yes, the gaskets are inexpensive, and Mike provided a link as well. The key is a marine type (no carbon steel due to marine environment).

As for “have I ever done a head gasket on a 3.0.” No. But lot of them on Volvo B18 motors (also a 4 cylinder). Was typically not due to blowen or other issues with the motor, perhaps a little detonation (pinging). My boss at the time was a great salesman and we would decarb these high mileage motors left and right because he convinced the owners that is how to keep them going. He was not wrong, but he oversold if you follow my meaning. And a whole bunch on the interference engines in Fiat Spiders. The cam belt would typically break at 31,000 miles (warranty expired at 30k) and bam! Head is coming off due to bent valves. And a bunch of others (v6, V8s). I digress but was fun walking down memory lane, so thx for the question!

Oh before I forget, one tool you will need are thread chasers, not taps, chaser, like this link. See post 13 of this tread for why.
 

kd4pbs

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
247
Here it is running and idleing in neutral... To me it seems like its running good, althought could be better. If it didnt have compression in 2 out of 4 cylinders there is no way it would run like that...
Yeah - that guy is running on two cylinders. 2&3 are 180 degrees away, so the engine goes fire-miss-fire-miss-fire-miss-fire-miss-fire-miss.... Makes it easier to hide the failures.
Odd that a head gasket would be so blown as to give you 0PSI compression. That would be a VERY blown head gasket! If I were you, I'd make sure the suspect cylinders were half way on the upstroke of the compression stroke and use your borescope to verify the valves are closed fully. If the head gasket is blown so severely as to give basically 0PSI compression, you should be able to see the lack of a fire ring between the head and block on your borescope.
Then again, no matter what the issue actually is, you're taking the head off anyway, so you might as well ignore everything I just wrote ;)
Just prepare yourself that it might be something additional than just a blown head gasket.
 

kd4pbs

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
247
Thanks - I'll be here all week! Don't forget to tip your waitress!
Dan - be sure that you verify the head is not warped. If there's any question about it, it's much cheaper and easier to address it while you've got it apart than to do the job twice. That being written, it's not a very difficult task, especially with the help of those around here. You've got good access around that engine to make it happen without any "gotchas" along the way.
 
Top