Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

[travisb5470]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

See imaged below for/if "Three Wire" setup with no response from switches.

Ensure 12V is present(and stays present during following tests) at down solenoid(j)'s red wire STUD (not ring lug), If trim motor is going up, then it and ground(shared) are properly good but check/monitor it's 12V anyway.......Ring lugs can be/get flaky even at the crimp sometimes eh?

Do test #1 first,

Test #1
Goes down?
Yes.......if it goes down, proceed to #2.
No........motor/motor wiring

Test #2
Goes down?
Yes......check 12V feeds to either the engine cowl switch(g)(and fuse "e" if equipped) and/or trim switch(d)
No........check solenoid's coil ground wire, if good.......*Replace Solenoid

***Solenoid's coil typically open if no "click" is heard during this test or Solenoid's contacts typically bad/burn't if "click" is heard during this test***

View attachment 228467

All JMO of course :lol:

I best go hang a motor, ice out smallies are call'n me........:fish2:

Ran jump test the motor went down from red to green and didn't red to grn/wht. So J solenoid is bad? How do you get to the bolts to take them off? they are behind them. Thanks for the knowledge!!! Great schematic!

 

[sam am I]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

Yes but, as directed above, you checked the j solenoid's blk ground coil wire as part of test 2? (But, if it "clicked" during test 2, then moot point, the coil's ground is good and the contacts inside are just *crap/burnt)

For the record, did it click or not?......and yes, the nyloc nuts are behind the plate, I used wrenches to break loose and needle nose pliers(or hemostats) to capture the nuts when coming off and re-position to get threads restarted. You can also just drop/loosen/move the plate too, your choice, done it both ways.

It's merc's work not mine but ty.


******Side note, McGyver being a ultra cheap bastard(not me) has taken'em apart a few over the last 100 yrs or so and sanded the pits and carbon out, re-surfacing the copper contacts so as to level things up for the plunger(contactor) to hit both contacts true again, sealed them back up and got them to last a few more yrs, but has since went high tech solid state and is done with that ole chest nut, probably best thou for you just to replace unless you're hella-cheap*****

 

[travisb5470]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

Yes but, as directed above, you checked the j solenoid's blk ground coil wire as part of test 2? (But, if it "clicked" during test 2, then moot point, the coil's ground is good and the contacts inside are just *crap/burnt)

For the record, did it click or not?......and yes, the nyloc nuts are behind the plate, I used wrenches to break loose and needle nose pliers(or hemostats) to capture the nuts when coming off and re-position to get threads restarted. You can also just drop/loosen/move the plate too, your choice, done it both ways.

It's merc's work not mine but ty.


******Side note, McGyver being a ultra cheap bastard(not me) has taken'em apart a few over the last 100 yrs or so and sanded the pits and carbon out, re-surfacing the copper contacts so as to level things up for the plunger(contactor) to hit both contacts true again, sealed them back up and got them to last a few more yrs, but has since went high tech solid state and is done with that ole chest nut, probably best thou for you just to replace unless you're hella-cheap*****

Yeah, turns out it was the down solenoid. Took the plate off and had no problem at all. Did a water pump kit and thermostats. Running good on the muffs in the driveway. now I have the intermittent oil steady beep beep beep?????

 

[travisb5470]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

Yeah, turns out it was the down solenoid. Took the plate off and had no problem at all. Did a water pump kit and thermostats. Running good on the muffs in the driveway. now I have the intermittent oil steady beep beep beep????? Thanks for the info! It was a huge help!

 

[sam am I]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

Falling short(errr long) of a wiring/module issue, check all bullet connectors and grounds for loose or corroded connections first then.........

If not that then It's perhaps then more down the lines of just low'ish oil level sloshing about in the reserve tank(tank under cowl) causing float switch to intermittently open and close and then causing the intermittent oil alarm.

Check oil system hose fittings and caps that they are all air tight then if needed, bleed any air from the oil pump with bleeder screw first(just in case) then fire it up, loosen the cap the reserve tank, wait and watch till the oil just starts running over the top then re-tighten cap back up.

If no oil over flows over the top within say like 5/10 minutes and/or If that fixes it and it comes back in a few days or whatever, you might have a pinched(or slightly pinched) pressure hose or plugged screen in remote tank, sometimes the screen needs cleaned in the oil remote tank pickup tube.

If it still persists beyond all that and you've checked and re-checked wiring, fittings, caps and before you replace a warning module, ya might be pulling a oil pump and drive shaft and peeking in on the infamous plastic gear in that perhaps w " intermittent beep beep beep beep", it's possible the gear that drives the shaft that drives the oil pump sensor pick up magnet/bushing is perhaps hit and miss and jumping around in such a way that it is stopping sometimes due to stripped/partially stripped missing teeth on the gear but, this type failure is usually more an "always beep beep beep" I believe.





No worries glad to of helped,.....

 

[travisb5470]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

Probably low'ish oil level sloshing about in the reserve tank(tank under cowl) causing float switch to intermittently open and close and then causing the intermittent oil alarm.

Bleed any air from the oil pump with bleeder screw first then fire it up, loosen the cap the reserve tank, wait and watch till the oil just starts running over the top then re-tighten cap back up.

If that fixes it and it comes back in a few days or whatever, the screen maybe needs cleaned in the oil remote tank pickup tube.

No worries glad to of helped,.....

Where is the bleeder screw located? so leave the screw loose as I fire it up with the tank cap cracked. I did look in the tank and the float and it is not completely full. So I'm hoping your right.

 

[sam am I]

Re: Mercury 150 xr4 no spark. Any thoughts?

The screw is on the body of the pump, and NO, sry, I wasn't too specific there........ Loosen cap then loosen the screw like 3 turns and let it bleed for a tad then re-tighen screw, fire up motor wait for overflow, tighten cap.

Me too, it is also possible to have a flaky float switch of course here too I suppose. To eliminate a flaky float switch intermittently closing for some reason as a cause in this process somewhere, just unplug it at the module........It just closes a magnetic reed switch in the fault/low oil scenario, so unplugging it fools the alarm module into thinking the tank is full.