Mercury 200 EFI overheating

sam am I

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I want to add that the water pressure was between 5 and 7 lbs... Is that good??


Green trace, yours should be close to mine i'd reckon. So thinking yes..........Next test on the water and whats it look like at 5K'ish? Looks like you got it in the bag though.......



Merc WOT Sensor Data_a.jpg
 
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Unkel Jed

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Smoke tested on big water today and got same results...Started overheating after a couple minutes... IS it possible that it is a counter rating shaft and I have been putting the water pump in backwards all along??? It's a 1998 Mercury 200 EFI SN 0G627069....Thanks in advance..
 

Texasmark

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Some of the slightly smaller hp Mercs, 150V6 to name one, has a pair of thermostats, one at the top of each water jacket cover over the cylinders and a popoff valve located down, under the engine, I am told. A cooling outlet hose goes down there and it is probably at the end of that hose. My son had a 150 and I had a 90 3 cyl. I'll tell you about mine mainly and you can take it from there.

My pee was plumbed off the exhaust manifold cover meaning that I had pee anytime the engine was running, strength was rpm related since water pressure is rpm related. His was plumbed off his stat outputs. Easy to check that in that the cover over the stats (top of the left and right water jackets) had the hose connection as part of the stat cover. The starboard plumbed over to the port and the port went down to discharge the stat output water below the engine. His pee was teed off that hose....easy to see and follow. With that arrangement, you had to have the stat open to get pee, and it came and went as the stat opened and closed. Bad.

On the top of his engine block, between the banks of cylinders, aft of the flywheel was a hose the vented the engine block's cooling water (bubble eliminator if you will) and the hose went down below the engine block to the mid section.....I think this is where his popoff was located and was a separate system from the tstat system.

My 90, actually 75 thru 125 3 and 4 cylinder engines were inline engines and covered in my service manual. At the top of the water jacket cover at the rear of the block, was a cover with 2 bulges, one for the stat and the other for the popoff. The stat controlled the engine cooling (excluding the exhaust cooling part as it ran continuously) and opening temp was 143F which is right where a US domestic hot water heater thermostat is set when in the Normal temp position.....for a reference on how hot is 143. Son't stats were 143F also.

The stat controlled block temp till you got to around 2500 rpms which was just on plane for my boat running around 15-18 mph range. At 2500 rpms, (obviously that's a book number....in reality, in that general range of rpm) the water pressure produced from the engine pump and the ram water from the lower unit going through the water was enough to unseat the "popoff valve" which opened a much larger discharge port for engine cooling water, essentially bypassing the tstat if the ambient water + engine added heat was below 143F.

I bought my engine used. On my first outing everything was working ok, I was getting to know the boat as I bought it right and untested. I putted around for a few minutes in the harbor and started for the no wake buoys in the process of seeing what the boat would do. Before I got very far I got an Over Temp warning horn. Not knowing anything about the boat, I thought I'd hammer down on it and get some water pressure pushing on the water pump incase the impeller was shot.

I was running out pretty good for a minute or so and all of a sudden the OT warning quit. I completed my first ru with no problems and came back in, slowing for the buoys and within a minute or so, the horn came back on.

In short my tstat was frozen shut. The popoff bypassed it at the higher speeds and allowed the engine to cool adequately.

So, with what you have and what I said, "whatcha wann" to bet your popoff valve is stuck shut, just the opposite of what I had........ you can putt around but can't hook her up and run some rpms.

What do you think?
 

Faztbullet

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What is water pressure when running above 3500rpm??? At idle not on a hose water pressure should be 2-6lbs and above 12lbs at 3500rpm. This motor will not "pee" until t-stats open due to cooling design and check poppet and block seal under poppet as they due come loose...
 

Dukedog

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Hooked hose to top side

what does tha above mean?... new water pump, as in new impeller, housing, ride plate, gaskets, o-ring?.. OEM stuff? . impeller direction is not that critical but is better if put in correctly tha first time..... new impeller will straighten itself up with first turn of tha shaft.... tha housing being "offset" sees to that.....
 

Unkel Jed

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@Duke.. I replaced the impeller, 2gaskets and face plate... I was looking at at driveshaft parts and it said something about my year model being a counter rotation..Every time I have taken lower unit off the fins on impeller were in a counter clockwise position... So my thinking is (I could be wrong on this).. Rotating drive shaft counter clockwise will position the fins in a clockwise position.. @ Fazt bullet... I couldn't get any rpms past idle... I tried to hook it up but it seemed to go flat and bog down... It acts like it is not pumping anything up to the top... Not sure tho..

@ Texas Mark... You gave me some more to look at... Looks like plumbing is about the same as 150's

I'm hoping I can get this fixed myself, putting it in the shop is gonna be to pricey for my limited income...
 

Dukedog

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ALL production motors turn tha same direction, CW... tha gears determine prop rotation....all horse power V6 stuff is basically tha same with very few differences...like said , how ya put tha impeller in makes no difference once tha shaft is turned.... housing? next to tha impeller its most important.... there is a hose attached to a bib on top of tha motor that goes down to tha poppet... disconnect it and start tha motor..... you should have a decent stream from that location (top of motor)... thats a direct path from tha water pump..... if no water there then tha pumps screwed or (but not likely.) copper pipe is split, grommet in bottom of adapter and/or top of pump are folded up/crushed ..... did tha copper pipe stay in tha down housing or come out with tha lower unit when ya pulled it?
 
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sam am I

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Started overheating after a couple minutes...

What method/s are you using to tell (or are telling you)it is in FACT "overheating"?

It's peeing okay, pressure seems right so far, poppet hasn't quite even really needed to open steady and yet overheating? and not even getting up and going yet.......odd.

You have a IR thermal gun? I'd be curious just how hot with not really doing any real work bogging under 1800.......

Not winding up though also needs fixed too and I don't think you're bogging from the get go is from the "overheating"........That engine should, even if beginning to over temp, get up and run like a screaming school girl @ 5K+ until it goes up in smoke due to overheating.......if its overheating.

Duke/FB,....that engine have guardian? If so, I reckon it could be holding it down due to temp.... I don't have that motor, I'm tapped.
 
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Dukedog

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is tha alarm over temp or oiler???... shouldn't need ta "glue tha guide tube at all... it shoulda fit snug in tha top of tha pump housing but like FB says, it doesn't seal nothin'... its justa guide for tha copper tube.

no guardian... says hes gettin' an alarm (didn't say what kind) in justa few minutes.....
 

Dukedog

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thats something ta do with tha oil/oiler or water in tha fuel....NOT over heat... over heat is a solid beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep..

usually low oil or bad sensor with tha motor mounted tank but not always... could be water... below is a link to your manual.. it will give ya some direction.......copy and paste.

file:///C:/Users/TLW/Downloads/MERCURY__2.4L__2.5L__3.0L_V6_EFI_Tehnicheskoe_ustr oystvo_dvigateley%20(7).pdf
.
 
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Unkel Jed

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OK.. Thanks dukedog.... Guess I should have gave that info 1st... Could it be clogged injectors?? I thought I had everything cleaned out good maybe some junk got up in fuel lines... I took samples out of both seperator and high pressure side, neither had water... That also explains loss of power...
 

Dukedog

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no water in tha fuel then ya need ta find out why ya gettin' an oil alarm before ya do anything else... tha alarm (whatever is causin' it) is not tha power problem but will be, and a very costly one, if ya don't find it and fix it FIRST....
 

Texasmark

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On the smaller engines that have the tank mounted inside the cowling sometimes the magnet falls off the float causing the alarm when there is plenty of oil and oil is obviously consumed as run time goes on the engine. It will give you the intermittent beep.
 
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