MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Woodonglass

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I'd do first 2 layers just like sphelps describe. BUT on the last two you can 1 1/4" screws on the inside and screw the two remaining layers in from the inside. You can remove the screws or not really doesn't matter. With epoxy and that many laminations that transom will be a TANK!!!!
 

Jim Hawkins

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

RFF when you glass in the inside of the transom, some of the fiberglass will overlap to the sides and hull, that's tabbing. Cutting the deck back is suggested to give you room to work your tab at the bottom of the transom. Probably a good idea but I would personally avoid it. If I had to make special tools bent to reach in there with lights shining in etc. I would try it. Your MFG has a very thick fiberglass deck that will also give the transom strength when tabbed.

I do not claim this to be the proper or professional way, only the way a fellow MFG owner would attempt.
 

sphelps

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Are you painting the hull / outside of transom ? Or just buffing the old gellcoat .. Remember epoxy sticks to poly but poly does not stick to epoxy . Gellcoat, if using that, does not stick to epoxy because it is basically poly resin .. At least that's what I have read here on the forum.. :)
Also make sure that your bottom tabbing/glassing to the hull is sealed as good as you can get it . If water gets in the bottom of the hull you don't want it saturating your brand new transom and messing up all that work .
 
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redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Thank you ......everyone!!!!, for all of the great information and advice. I will go with the 3/8 marine grade plywood using wog clamps. The trans width is 64 inches so I will go with 5 clamps across the back. I have the clamps, epoxy resin, and tools to apply, just gotta get the plywood and I will begin. Don't give up on me if I don't get going too fast. Lots of "stuff" going on right now but I will post the progress as it happens. I can't wait to get going and you guys have definitely been a tremendous help. So glad I found this forum and I look forward to getting wet! If someone could send me a link to the PB recipe that would be great!
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Are you painting the hull / outside of transom ? Or just buffing the old gellcoat .. Remember epoxy sticks to poly but poly does not stick to epoxy . Gellcoat, if using that, does not stick to epoxy because it is basically poly resin .. At least that's what I have read here on the forum.. :)
Also make sure that your bottom tabbing/glassing to the hull is sealed as good as you can get it . If water gets in the bottom of the hull you don't want it saturating your brand new transom and messing up all that work .
I will probably paint the outside of the boat (transom only) to cover up/fix all the drilled holes etc. It will be a flat white to match the other white color on the boat. I will leave the boat as original as possible. Do you think it would hurt to glass the foam that the previous owner sprayed into the hull? If I do a good enough job I don't think the water can get to the bottom of the transom wood and rot it out.

This may need to go on another thread but has anyone done their own wiring? Mine needs some/a lot of TLC and I may get started on that, and multitask until I get the plywood!
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Yep most of the guys here on the forum do their own wiring. Here's a basic wiring diagram for boats. It's very straight forward and easy to do. Everything runs off one common Ground. Then you run your power lines from the devices to the switches.

11666d1172161592-typical-wiring-schematic-diagram-instrumentpanelwiring.jpg


Here's the basic Marine Color Code Wiring Chart

1332d1335971076t-color-codes-marine-wiring-marine-wire-color-codes.gif
 
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sphelps

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Do you think it would hurt to glass the foam that the previous owner sprayed into the hull? If I do a good enough job I don't think the water can get to the bottom of the transom wood and rot it out.

I don,t think your quite getting the idea . Your new wood has got to go past the deck all the way down to the hull . That's why the foam must go . It's prolly soaking wet anyway ... Did you cut the inside skin out or did the po do it ? Here is a shot of mine before I cut the skin out to clean it for the seacast .

Notice at the bottom there is a white looking built up layer of glass. It kinda looks like a base board in a house . Yours is cut out . Now to glass the new wood to the hull you are gunna have to cut the floor/deck back far enough to expose the hull at the bottom . You are trying to seal the bottom of the transom at the hull in case water gets under the deck . After installing new transom and glassing to the hull you will then patch the floor back sealing it to the transom .
Now I will propose a different approach . Hopefully some more experienced guys will chime in on it .
If --- the original inside skin is still there under the deck from the demo already started . I'm asking this hypothetically.. Could the new transom be glassed in to the deck and still be structurally sound without glassing to the hull ? That is if the original glassing is still undisturbed...:noidea:
 

Jim Hawkins

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

RedFishingFun,

You really need to get in there and clean all that foam out. We may suggest repairing the transom different ways but I think we can agree you gotta get that foam out and see what's down there. Really.

My advice, leave the wiring for last. Stick to priorities. Fiberglassing isn't always fun but you gotta do it. Transom first.
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

SP,
I have got the tabbing wood transom to "bottom" deck down. That will keep the water out. Thanks. Now this part.
Quote,"you will then patch the floor back sealing it to the transom ." How will I "patch" the floor back? Will I add some type of thin fiberglass making a new floor? Or will I just leave it open and cover with something like some cool JUMP seats? :)
I really don't have your skills so any other cool ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
RFF
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

RedFishingFun,

You really need to get in there and clean all that foam out. We may suggest repairing the transom different ways but I think we can agree you gotta get that foam out and see what's down there. Really.

My advice, leave the wiring for last. Stick to priorities. Fiberglassing isn't always fun but you gotta do it. Transom first.

Transom first.....! Got it. I'll let you guys know about what's under the foam. I think I will probably have to cut the floor back in order to glass wood transom to hull. At first I didn't want to have to do that, but the light has come on ! Thanks for all the help.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Check out this drawing as well as the first link in my signature below. It might shed some light on what all you need to do to replace your transom.

TransomDeck.jpg
 

sphelps

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Woody I think that foam you see is just some can foam the po put in there for some reason .My hull did not have foam below deck from factory. Rff will need to laminate many layers of glass to repair deck . Get the foam out and post some pics.
 

Jim Hawkins

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Ditto on what SP said. That foam is not factory, just some schmutz a PO put in there. MFG has fiberglass stringers and thick fiberglass deck (no wood). To repair the deck I would layout some Roven Woven on wax paper, saturate it with resin and then cut and fit it in place and use it as a base to start laying up the new deck

I'm curious to see what's under the foam so we know where we are for tabbing and for that lower drain hole.
 

sphelps

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I am interested to see the stringer system also ..Rff when you cut back the deck be very careful as you get closer to the sides of the boat . Ya don,t want to cut through the bottom of the hull . Cuss if you do your gunna have to throw the whole boat away !! :eek:
Or give it to Woody so he can build his wood on glass boat he's been wanting to build .. :)
Just kidding Rff ! Theres nothing you could mess up that you couldn't fix . :D
I would cut the deck just in front of the bilge cup nice and straight across the deck . I'm thinking if your careful you can reuse the cut out deck pieces to glass back in . That will keep you from having to reform the bilge cup . It may be a bit tricky where the deck is glassed to the top of the stringers . With an extra set of hands you might be able to pull the deck up a bit to access the tops of the stringers to run a long sawzall blade across to separate the deck from the stringers in one piece .
I was just stinkin ...:)
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Ditto on what SP said. That foam is not factory, just some schmutz a PO put in there. MFG has fiberglass stringers and thick fiberglass deck (no wood). To repair the deck I would layout some Roven Woven on wax paper, saturate it with resin and then cut and fit it in place and use it as a base to start laying up the new deck

I'm curious to see what's under the foam so we know where we are for tabbing and for that lower drain hole.

YES, That lower drain hole has me puzzled as well. Simply because "I can't get my head around it" I think with the build up of 4 layers of 3/8" plywood I can simply drill a hole through and walla! place the plug. I will take a picture once all the foam is removed.
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

SP,
Once I get the foam out and the deck cut back I will post pics for advice. Thanks to everyone for "pitching In" on this. All my fishing buddy's keep on me to get rid of it and get something (Aluminum) we can fish in....."they just don't get it!"
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Hey anyone got a good peanut butter recipe......no wise cracks!:laugh:
 

redfishingfun

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Check out this drawing as well as the first link in my signature below. It might shed some light on what all you need to do to replace your transom.

Wood,
The foam is that spray in stuff. I will get it all out and glass in the wood transom. I will cut the floor back as SP suggest and send pics when complete. I will be out-of-pocket until Monday, but will get it done then.
Thanks
 

sphelps

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Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I think the epoxy filler/pb is made the same as poly. Cabosil/airosil mixed in with the resin as a thickening agent. Make it as thick as you need to fit whatever application . Vertical app will need to be thick enough so it doesn't run down. Add 1/4" chopped fibers to make it more structural if needed. A little of the fibers go a long way.
Hope this helps !
 
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